As I mentioned earlier my bike won’t start – no spark. So I got the Honda manual, the recommended peak voltage adapter on this site, new coil, new spark plug. I used the trouble shooting list on page 19-4. In the section No Peak voltage at coil primary I failed the following:
5. No voltage at the black/white wire of the ECM. (Looking at the harness side of the terminal, the top right hand terminal is Red/white, the next one is the black/white. Is this correct?) Where does this wire originate?
10. Faulty CKP sensor. I measured the peak voltage at the alternator side of connector 5P, between the blue/yellow and white terminals. No Voltage.
The only thing I did not check is the gear position switch wiring. Where is this switch? When I change gears, the display correctly displays the right gear ( N, 1, 2 etc.) Does that mean that the switch is good?
Any suggestions? Any chance that the peak voltage adapter/multimeter combo is incorrect? Any way to test the adapter independent of the bike? Seems like the whole bike is just dead.
Hello all! I have been coming here for years and have found a lot of great information and for that I would like to say Thank You! I have an 03 350 TRX 4×4 atv I bought about a year ago. When I bought it it had a decent amount of white smoke when riding (decent enough to where I knew it would need the top end rebuilt at some point). I recently opened it up and had the cylinder head bored and honed and new piston with new rings, valve seals, etc. I also, while I had it apart, rebuilt the carb and replaced all vacuum and fuel lines. I put everything back together (I followed specs in the owners manual on pretty much everything). On the stock setting for the pilot jet, the quad started and ran great. No smoke, no sputtering, didn’t seem too rich. It was actually running about perfect. I knew that to set the pilot jet it needed to get to temp, so I let it warm up. While setting the jet, the engine would be at a decent idle and then it would click (sounds kind of like a shift of gears), and stall. When it would stall it sounded like something was still spinning in the engine and winding down. I can adjust the idle screw to a higher rpm to temp avoid the stall, but am concerned about it. Also, when the engine is at max rpm, it almost sounds like it is missing a bit (like a hollow sound). It doesn’t sound in sync to me. I am suspecting my pilot jet might be the issue, but wanted to reach out to you all before I pulled anything else apart. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Hello all! I have been coming here for years and have found a lot of great information and for that I would like to say Thank You! I have an 03 350 TRX 4×4 atv I bought about a year ago. When I bought it it had a decent amount of white smoke when riding (decent enough to where I knew it would need the top end rebuilt at some point). I recently opened it up and had the cylinder head bored and honed and new piston with new rings, valve seals, etc. I also, while I had it apart, rebuilt the carb and replaced all vacuum and fuel lines. I put everything back together (I followed specs in the owners manual on pretty much everything). On the stock setting for the pilot jet, the quad started and ran great. No smoke, no sputtering, didn’t seem too rich. It was actually running about perfect. I knew that to set the pilot jet it needed to get to temp, so I let it warm up. While setting the jet, the engine would be at a decent idle and then it would click (sounds kind of like a shift of gears), and stall. When it would stall it sounded like something was still spinning in the engine and winding down. I can adjust the idle screw to a higher rpm to temp avoid the stall, but am concerned about it. Also, when the engine is at max rpm, it almost sounds like it is missing a bit (like a hollow sound). It doesn’t sound in sync to me. I am suspecting my pilot jet might be the issue, but wanted to reach out to you all before I pulled anything else apart. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
I am working on my wheeler and always have bad bolts. We have a big selection of SAE bolts but very few metric. I was wondering I you knew where I could get a large metric bolt kit or a Honda ATV bolt kit. Would like it to be at least 1000 pieces so it would last. Where do you guys get all your bolts when doing a rebuild? Thanks a lot.
I am working on my wheeler and always have bad bolts. We have a big selection of SAE bolts but very few metric. I was wondering I you knew where I could get a large metric bolt kit or a Honda ATV bolt kit. Would like it to be at least 1000 pieces so it would last. Where do you guys get all your bolts when doing a rebuild? Thanks a lot.
I have a 2014 Rancher 4×4 manual shift and I have been having problems with upshifting…mostly from 2nd to 3rd. It only has about 41 miles on it and could still just be breaking in but it does feel off while shifting. I’ve noticed when the ATV is cold it is definitely harder to shift. The foot shifter just does not want to go up into the next gear. It does eventually go into gear but it takes some time. Is there a clutch adjustment that I need to do?
Also when I came to a stop, the ATV shut off but I was able to turn it back on without any problems. This happened when I was having problems shifting too. Don’t know if it’s related. Thanks.
hello, we just got 2 new bikes and my wife’s is a 2014 recon. it is kind of hard to keep running until warm. is this because it is in the break in process? I have many carb toys that once I pull the choke it will run the engine fast enough to keep it running. but hers you still have to give it gas to keep it running. once it is warm there is no problems. is this normal for this model? thanks.
hello, we just got 2 new bikes and my wife’s is a 2014 recon. it is kind of hard to keep running until warm. is this because it is in the break in process? I have many carb toys that once I pull the choke it will run the engine fast enough to keep it running. but hers you still have to give it gas to keep it running. once it is warm there is no problems. is this normal for this model? thanks.
Hey all I’ve been beating my head against the wall over this little quad, its first problem was a bent exhaust valve do to a fault compression release well I fixed the valve and removed the comp. release….
It had been sitting for bout 6 years so I gave it the tank n carb cleanse as per required, well one pull and it fires right up and purrs like a baby Honda
Problem? It runs good for about 5 minutes then it seems to flood and die
Do you think there could still be crap getting into the carb?
My friend has this go kart that has a ATC 200 engine strapped to it. It came to me with a few problems but I still have to get it running. I relocated the shoddy ground to a very solid one, I used a ring terminal behind a case bolt. After that it had spark. It wasn’t bright blue, but more yellow or orange. I had to use a different plug boot off a snowmobile. IDK if that makes any difference. This thing sat at somebody’s shop for 3 years outside covered in rain and snow with no pull start cover on so I thought it was the stator. It measured a little high in ohms but not very much if I remember correctly, but I’ll go check again later. I replaced the ignition switch on it from some other bike with a simple toggle switch, and yes I put it in the right way I know that when the two wires are connected the bike shuts off. I looked at a service manual and checked the pulse generator resistance which was fine, and the air gap which was also in spec. What gives? I feel bad for the guy because he dropped off the go kart at somebody’s shop to fix a broken pull cord. It was running when he dropped it off, and the guy left it out with no pull start cover on for 3 years, and now it doesn’t run. They got tired of waiting, and brought it to me. What gives?
