Hi, first post, I’m baffled, I just replaced both clutches o9n this 200s with shifter activated clutch, centrifugal is fine, but i’m puzzled as how the manual shift activated clutch works, i put it back together according to the manual but it is now full time engage. When assembled the pressure plate is down by the 4 x10mm head bolts, it looks like by activating the shifter it causes the lift arm to push down actually putting more pressure on the pressure plate??? I cannot figure out how this clutch even disengages, it is the 4 fiber 3 metal plate clutch, I need some help with this one, thanks help much appreciated

Hi, first post, I’m baffled, I just replaced both clutches o9n this 200s with shifter activated clutch, centrifugal is fine, but i’m puzzled as how the manual shift activated clutch works, i put it back together according to the manual but it is now full time engage. When assembled the pressure plate is down by the 4 x10mm head bolts, it looks like by activating the shifter it causes the lift arm to push down actually putting more pressure on the pressure plate??? I cannot figure out how this clutch even disengages, it is the 4 fiber 3 metal plate clutch, I need some help with this one, thanks help much appreciated

Hello! I have an 86 250r with an ESR 310 kit. When I’m on the throttle in the lower gears like 1st-3rd the bike seems to pull fine but in the higher gears when on the throttle it seems the motor free winds and doesn’t hardly pull. I have the clutch adjusted all the way so that there are no threads left to adjust. Don’t know what to replace or look for. Thanks for the help!

Had broken axel on my 2011 Honda 420 Manuel shift had to tear into the chunk to replace it now I can’t keep a axel they keep breaking any ideas what to do

Hi all, new to the forum. Quick intro, I have two honda quads. an 88 fourtrax 300 2wd (old faithful) and a 2000 trx350fm (Not ES). I appologize for the long saga, but its the only way to understand this situation.

I got the 2000 in basically many laundry hampers. Some idiot who took everything appart for "Shift forks" when all it needed was a "shift actuator" 80$ at the dealer and stupid easy to fix. Anyways I tore the engine right down and went through the transmission. all gears and shims were put back and the transmission shifted beautifully through all the gears on the bench. I purchased an OEM service manual. New Kevlar wet clutches and springs installed. New top end went on without a hitch. Carb was rebuilt as well. Adjusted the valves and she fired up like it had just been running. Broke it in well nice and slow. added a little 2 cycle oil for the first tank. Rode it all last year without any issues. Went all through the hunting season and in mid november in ontario, it can get to -10 -15 celcius. No issues. A little valve train noise, but went away when warm

Fast forward to february. Fired the quad up on a nice sunny day, wanted to give it a run and get rid of some of the old gas. Fired it up and it was LOUD. Terrible ticking coming from the top end and died instantly as soon as i let off the throttle. would not idle at all. So I parked it until now where its warm enough to hold a wrench and not freeze! Got the valve cover off and she looks rough. The valve lash adjusters are heavily worn and were actually starting to seize on their pivot. I soaked them in oil and ATF and they move just like new now. Ordered new valve lash adjusters. Luckily no major damage from what i can see. Fantastic compression. Infact I adjusted the valves and the quad fired up and ran perfectly, EXCEPT no oil to the top end! not a drop, not a mist, nothing. So I pulled the oil filter. Dry. little residual oil, but not the good pour of oil that comes out when doing a filter change.

So I started troubleshooting. Pulled the oil cooler line off and cranked the engine. Gushes out oil. Pulled the return oil cooler line. Nothing. I thought i had solved it. Back flushed the oil cooler and tried again. Still nothing. I then went and poured about 400 ML of oil into the block via return oil cooler line. Crank the engine and the oil filter cavity instantly fills with oil, but then soon depletes after the 400ML is depleted. Oil level is at the top dipstick mark. I went as far as pumping oil from the oil filter cavity and it gets to the top of the engine with no problems.

What can cause this? I’m very mechanically inclided and I can’t figure this out. The honda oil flow diagram is terrible in the manual. Does anyone know where the oil filter cavity gets its oil, and what does it feed? The oil pump is obviously working and the crank has no knock or rod play so the bottom end and piston have to be getting oil. I’ve put on about 500 km since the rebuild. I can’t imagine the top end and valves lasting that long without lubrication. Then again it is a honda…. I would have thought this would have got worse and worse before me tearing it down, not just suddenly on a cold day. I’m open to all ideas preferably before having to split the frame and pull the engine out. By the way, these models SUCK for pulling the engine! Nothing like my trx 300.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I am also looking for a new vss (speed sensor) I never had one when i got the quad, so i made a nice alumium block of plate so i could ride.

hi all,
recently i have noticed that i cannot shift into neutral with my engine idling… i can get it into neutral while the engine is off and i can also get it into neutral if i give it some throttle while its running, but if i try to shift to neutral while idling the gearshift lever feels hard to pull and it will not go into neutral. is this normal? or common on these atvs?

thanks

I have a 06 rubicon, bought it new and have had a problem since I first took it thru mud which was about 2 yrs after I bought it. When it gets stuck the tires will not spin, if I give it gas it just bogs and doesnt spin. The dealer couldnt come up with an answer except bring it back and we will dig into it, they guessed that maybe I had too much grip with my mud tires but I have never had that issue with other bikes Ive had. Its 9 yrs old now so its gotten me this far but was curious if anybody had a theory Thanks

Hello all
I have a 2004 250 recon that is smoking. I pulled the top end thinking its valve seals or rings and found that the valve guide on the exhaust side is broken cleanly at the base. It still runs great, but smokes.
I know the valve guides are pressed in, but I’m a little worried trying this on my own. The manual also says you need a valve reamer????
Am I looking at a new head or is this something that the average guy and tackle?

I have a 2007 manual shift fuel injected rancher 420, it was blowing main fuses left and right so I just unplugged everything and replugged them and that problem was solved so I went on about a 2 hour ride and the bike just died and wouldn’t start back up. it will turn over but not start. every once in a while it will randomly start. im getting no spark from the spark plug and no power from the wires connecting to the ignition coil. also I am not hearing the fuel pump come on when the key is turned over, so where do I start with locating my problem?

As I mentioned earlier my bike won’t start – no spark. So I got the Honda manual, the recommended peak voltage adapter on this site, new coil, new spark plug. I used the trouble shooting list on page 19-4. In the section No Peak voltage at coil primary I failed the following:
5. No voltage at the black/white wire of the ECM. (Looking at the harness side of the terminal, the top right hand terminal is Red/white, the next one is the black/white. Is this correct?) Where does this wire originate?

10. Faulty CKP sensor. I measured the peak voltage at the alternator side of connector 5P, between the blue/yellow and white terminals. No Voltage.

The only thing I did not check is the gear position switch wiring. Where is this switch? When I change gears, the display correctly displays the right gear ( N, 1, 2 etc.) Does that mean that the switch is good?
Any suggestions? Any chance that the peak voltage adapter/multimeter combo is incorrect? Any way to test the adapter independent of the bike? Seems like the whole bike is just dead.

Thanks

Sandor