I have a 2000 Trx 90. Not getting any spark. No power to the coil. There is a yellow wire running off the stater and it seems that its the only wire that has power. I believe there is something wrong with the neutral safety switch. I was told that the yellow wire could be for a headlight. I tried grounding out both connections coming off the neutral safety switch. Still no spark. If there is power coming off the yellow wire when i pull it i know the stater is bad. What to do now?

I have a 2000 Trx 90. Not getting any spark. No power to the coil. There is a yellow wire running off the stater and it seems that its the only wire that has power. I believe there is something wrong with the neutral safety switch. I was told that the yellow wire could be for a headlight. I tried grounding out both connections coming off the neutral safety switch. Still no spark. If there is power coming off the yellow wire when i pull it i know the stater is bad. What to do now?

I have a problem for all the Honda gurus I have a 1987 Honda TRX 250 X that I’ve been building I got the engine all back together and found out the exhaust valves was hitting the piston now I don’t know if the engine has been messed with before me but when I did the motor machine shop at the mill the head 2000 so my question is does anybody know what I can do to fix the problem of the valves hitting the head

I have a problem for all the Honda gurus I have a 1987 Honda TRX 250 X that I’ve been building I got the engine all back together and found out the exhaust valves was hitting the piston now I don’t know if the engine has been messed with before me but when I did the motor machine shop at the mill the head 2000 so my question is does anybody know what I can do to fix the problem of the valves hitting the head

Tore top end off and found scored piston and cylinder. Connecting rod has a good amount of side to side play in it. From what I have read, this crankshaft and con rod are a single unit. Also read that 1998 – 2004 models use the same crank. Does anyone know where to find a good used one? Thanks.

Tore top end off and found scored piston and cylinder. Connecting rod has a good amount of side to side play in it. From what I have read, this crankshaft and con rod are a single unit. Also read that 1998 – 2004 models use the same crank. Does anyone know where to find a good used one? Thanks.

Front tires keep locking up i have adjusted the brakes and it fixed it for half a day then it’s right back to doing it again any ideas

I recently bought my third abused 300ex for $400. It was running super lean when i got it so i’ve rejetted it for the k&n and pipe and now it runs strong but its still a "rollstart only" bike. The ignorant piece of crap i bought it from assured me that the started was bad. The wiring is horrific on this thing, lots of splicing and the like, no ignition or kill switch. Anyway, I figured i would start with the basics and work up. I bought a new battery hooked it up and tried to cross the solenoid with a screwdriver…nothing, no click or anything. i checked with a test light and the power side of the solenoid has power, when i cross the solenoid to the other connection, the power crosses but the solenoid doesn’t click. The two wires coming from the solenoid itself have no power regardless of weather it is crossed or not. I’m assume they should have power at some point. The solenoid looks to be new, one of those cheap ebay ones im guessing. If the solenoid isn’t clicking can i assume that it is faulty? or could it be an issue with some other wiring. I was under the impression that the solenoid should click as long as it is getting power. I have a wiring diagram but i just want to start with testing the solenoid.

please help, the weather is good and its time to get this thing starting properly.

thanks,
-Calvin

I recently bought my third abused 300ex for $400. It was running super lean when i got it so i’ve rejetted it for the k&n and pipe and now it runs strong but its still a "rollstart only" bike. The ignorant piece of crap i bought it from assured me that the started was bad. The wiring is horrific on this thing, lots of splicing and the like, no ignition or kill switch. Anyway, I figured i would start with the basics and work up. I bought a new battery hooked it up and tried to cross the solenoid with a screwdriver…nothing, no click or anything. i checked with a test light and the power side of the solenoid has power, when i cross the solenoid to the other connection, the power crosses but the solenoid doesn’t click. The two wires coming from the solenoid itself have no power regardless of weather it is crossed or not. I’m assume they should have power at some point. The solenoid looks to be new, one of those cheap ebay ones im guessing. If the solenoid isn’t clicking can i assume that it is faulty? or could it be an issue with some other wiring. I was under the impression that the solenoid should click as long as it is getting power. I have a wiring diagram but i just want to start with testing the solenoid.

please help, the weather is good and its time to get this thing starting properly.

thanks,
-Calvin

Was riding my 06 Foreman with a "tick" the other day and noticed it was getting louder.

Backstory, bought this one cheap ($400) and had to rebuild the whole thing; knuckles, carb, brakes, tie rods, new crank, new top end, etc etc. What I didn’t replace was the timing chain (I know, I know, live and learn, but this was my first rebuild a couple years ago and I didn’t know any better).

So I’ve had a new timing chain sitting in the parts pile for awhile, and when the noise started getting louder i thought "Time to do it"

Tore it down, chain was pretty stretched, and when I went to take it off, of course I spun the crank a little bit. No problem, I thought. Looked in the sight hole, and spun the crank around till I got to T again, and then put everything back together.

It fired up, seems to idle fine, but the noise is still there and seems louder than before. I took everything off and it’s coming from the top end. I checked the valves and they were TIGHT. .005 feeler wouldn’t go. I set them to .006 and noise is still there.

My question is, could I have possibly gotten the timing out 180deg? If I did so, it wouldn’t run right, correct?

Any ideas on why the valves tightened up? I’ve had them set at .006 and haven’t put that many miles on it since I last adjusted them.

The top end was done by a local shop (now kaput) and I’m wondering if I might have gotten a bad bore. He’s done a couple for me and every one has gone south within a thousand miles, while the two I’ve had done elsewhere have been good to go.

Any input on this?