FINALLY got the wife’s Rancher AT motor back in. I actually put it in a couple weeks ago only to find out the shifter was bound up, had to pull it again, tear the whole motor back down, and free up the shift drum. Got it back together and it will at least shift between gears with a little working back and forth on the rear wheel.
Got everything hooked up and found a bad starter solenoid. Jumping the terminals turns it over but it won’t fire. Verfied fuel is on at petcock, fuel pump housing is getting gas. Fuel injection relay clicks when I turn the key on. If I shoot starter fluid up in the intake it will fire off for a couple seconds so I know it’s getting spark.
At this point I’m thinking fuel pump isn’t working. Normally on the EFI rigs I’ve heard a buzzing noise when you first turn on the key. I don’t hear anything when I turn the key on. Fuel and temp lights briefly light up when I turn the key on like they’re supposed to, but that’s it.
Before I remove the whole fuel pump assembly I’d like to make sure it’s getting power. Does the electrical plug on top simply feed 12V to the pump? If so I’ll check it with a voltmeter before I remove the pump housing.
Loaned out my 06 500FM, got it back and on the way to the duck hole I noticed that the rear end was going all over the place. Took it back to the house and discovered the right rear swing arm pivot had backed all the way out, so the swingarm isn’t hooked up.
Figured I’d just screw it back in, and looks like it’s walked out over time and the threads in the frame are done. Short of buying a 30mm tap (about $100) not sure if there’s an easy fix for this. I can tack weld things with my wire welder, but I think cutting out the whole section of frame and welding in a new section is beyond my abilities.
I’m thinking about welding a lock nut to the frame there and then screwing the pivot bolt into that. There are still enough of the inner threads left to not allow the bolt to pass through the hole so guess I’d need to dremel those down.
Anyone done this, or have another not too terribly difficult way to get this swingarm back on?
Found this rubber shield in a box of parts yet to go on 96 Foreman 400.
I just got thru putting a 2000 Foreman 400 together ,so I am pretty familiar with most of the parts- till I pulled this out…..
Anybody recognize this part/model? It might be from another wheeler by mistake- trx300, rancher350… etc,but I just dont recall seeing this part from memory–too much ham… soo sleepy
Any help greatly appreciated and Happy Holidays to all!…………………
I am in the process of rebuilding a fourtrax 250 rear differential. I have the differential almost torn down. I have removed the pinion bearing lock nut, but I am unable to remove the pinion gear and shaft. The old bearing seems to be holding the shaft from coming out. Any tips on how to accomplish this task? The shop manual says to use a shaft puller. Anyone ever made their own or have a link to one?
I have a question about the decompressor, and I think this question applies to most Honda ATV’s. I have read the information that is available in a couple service manuals and understand the function of the decompressor is to bleed off some compression at low speed (such as during start) for the purpose of reducing some of the load on the starter motor. It does this with a blip on the cam base that presents itself at low speed. It is hard to tell from the pictures of the decompressor in the service manuals as to the exact placement of the blip on the base of the cam. If the blip is located exactly opposite of the cam lobe, then that will throw your valve clearance setting way off because you would be setting the valve clearance while the decompressor is in position to add extra lift to the valve. Therefore, I am assuming that the decompressor is positioned somewhat away from being directly opposite of the cam lobe. Is this correct?
Yo guys, brand new on the forum looking for a little measurement info. Just ordered an 85.5mm Wiseco piston for my 2003 400ex and have no clue if I need to bore the cylinder to 85.5mm also or larger?
Not new to working on this bike but I am stumped here..
I’m new too this forum, i searched but could find an answer to my problem. My 2004 Honda Rincon 650 is showing a 4 flash code and won’t shift up. this code says it the rear speed sensor. So….i search hi and low for a rear speed sensor in the area of the read diff but found nothing. Some threads on this site even talked about a sensor just forward of the rear diff…..but i cant find one. All i can find is the speed sensor on the front diff and what they call the "rear speed sensor" on the back of the front diff. So…..there are 2 speed sensors on the front diff. So is the "rear speed sensor" on the front diff my problem? am i missing a sensor on the rear diff? any help, thanks.
What’s up! New to forum and have a question about a 2008 rancher 420 4×4 es.
This thing has very low miles like 990mi and I was recently in michigan riding when the problem started.
My other quad broke down and had to tow it with the honda and now it’s making a clacking sound in first and second gear but it’s not making it in third. I do know it’s possible that those two gears could have stripped but seeking other advice before tearing into trans. Is it possible to have other things to inspect before going right to trans like clutch basket failure or starter clutch or has any one else had this problem? It just seems strange that it doesn’t make any noise in third you would think if the gears failed you would still hear something grinding in case but there is nothing.
Would appreciate any input guys thanks in advance.
