Okay guys have an issue here with my rancher. It is a 2008 Rancher 420 footshift 4×4, supposed to be one of the most reliable out there, and it was until yesterday.
I had a friend come over to look at purchasing the atv, he drove it loved it and is supposed to let me know whether or not he takes it.
After he left I drove it back out to the shop and put it up, roughly 5 hours later I went to back it out and the quad did not want to start. I finally got it running and then it ran terrible. Idle was different than normal, it seemed a little higher but nothing crazy. I drove it around the yard and it runs OKAY until about 1/2 throttle at which point it bogs and skips, if you hammer down and get it above that area it goes back to running OKAY again. Now it did have some type of cheap air fuel controller thing on it, my friend touched it yesterday asking what it was but I am 99.99999% sure that he did not adjust it, when it started running bad I played with it a little bit but it has very minimal affect. I took it off last night and the bike ran the same way so I do not think that is the problem. Oh I also changed the spark plug, the old one looked bad but a new one did not help at all. oh and this test ride he took it on was no mud water nothing, it was down my road and back and around my yard.
ANY and all help would be appreciated, i have another rancher I can check stuff off of but I have no idea where to start
Thanks guys

Need help!! Was riding my 2007 Honda 420 2wd when in 3rd gear the rear wheels locked up and now won’t gear down pass 3rd even when "rocking" it, it won’t, but will gear up to 5th. What might be the problem? It’s the feet shift. Thanks

Need help!! Was riding my 2007 Honda 420 2wd when in 3rd gear the rear wheels locked up and now won’t gear down pass 3rd even when "rocking" it, it won’t, but will gear up to 5th. What might be the problem? It’s the feet shift. Thanks

Hey guys, I know this is a Honda website but this is the only forum I have. I am working on a Kawasaki prairie for a buddie of mine and it only runs at idle or from idle to 14 throttle, anything after 14 throttle just sputters n pops out the carb and also shoots blue flames out the pipe when trying to rev, it will not hardy rev at all without sputtering and popping and dyeing, carbs seemed clean pulled the bowl off and checked jets for cloggage, but they were all clean, anyone have any suggestions this, it has got me scratchin my head, any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

How do you release the fuel injector line at the top of the fuel pump, I think it is easy enough but I don’t want to break anything, I did a search but nothing comes up

Hi,
I am hoping someone can help me out with an issue I am having. I own a 2014 Honda TRX420FA2 and for some reason its front brakes seem to have gotten stuck. I am also having trouble with the right lever. It is very difficult to press it. It is as if that was stuck as well. Hope someone can help me out.

I recently purchased a used 2006 TRX90 to replace a ’86 TRX 125. The ’86 still runs great but it is really jarring to ride with no suspension other than tire pressure. When I was a kid I had ATC90 and, later an ATC110. I didn’t mind not having a suspension at all back then… In fact I loved both of those bikes and learned a lot about taking care of your machinery from them.

I am writing this in hopes of helping someone else with a TRX90. The fuel in the tank must have been years old. It smelled prehistoric. I imagined the carburetor was going to look like it was full of rubber cement.

The neutral light did not work even with the bike was in neutral and the starter would not click or engage at all — not surprising with no neutral indication.

I took all the plastics off the bike and gave it a good pressure washing and inspection. I disassembled the fuel tank and cleaned all the old gas out. Surprisingly the in-tank strainer was still okay. I removed the carb, carefully disassembled it being careful of gaskets and o-rings as I didn’t have a rebuild kit and cleaned it out. It was full of scaly flakes – really full. The slow jet was completely clogged and could only be unclogged using a very small diameter piece of wire and a lot of solvent. The main jet wasn’t much better but it wasn’t completely clogged. After a good soaking in solvent, I cleaned and blew everything out and reassembled.

The engine oil was black and a lot more the consistency of water than oil. I changed it and added new oil. The chain was okay but bone dry.

I put a gallon of fresh fuel in the tank and one of the fuel lines broke. A quick trip to Advance Auto and new fuel lines were installed. Should have done this from the start.

I always remind myself that when a bike is running poorly that you can almost always solve that issue in less than an hour with a good carb cleaning and fuel system inspection. It is easy to think it will clear itself up with running but that is not often true.

Still no neutral indication and no starter. Push starting the bike it did fire up and ran pretty good. After about 15 minutes the bike ran strong. I adjusted the idle speed down and it would just sit there an idle perfectly.

I’ll take a look at the valves soon but the idle is so smooth and the top end feels strong enough that I did not prioritize this task.

I pulled the left rear crank case cover and discovered that the neutral contact switch was broken right where the single bolt attaches it to the case. The contact plate that bolts to the shift drum was damaged as well. Just for fun, I grounded one of the contacts of the switch and the neutral light came on and the starter engaged and started the bike! That was good news. Parts ordered. Since this switch was going to be replaced, I cut the end off, grounded the neutral switch and cut the pink wire. Now the neutral light stays on in all gears and you can start the bike in gear. This will be fixed when the new switch comes in the mail. Cutting the pink wire does seem to make a difference in how fast the engine revs. I’ll write more when I put the new switch in and reconnect the pink wire.

The bikes shifts normally most of the time. Sometimes the shifter gets hung up and needs to be downshifted and then the upshift occurs normally. Also, it has popped out of 4th at full throttle a time or two. I adjusted the tensioner several times with no change in behavior. If it doesn’t clear up by the next oil change I’ll see what there is to see.

The bike needs tires a few brake adjustments, a chain tightening and a good all-around lube and I think my 9-year-old will be happy. I do think the old 125 might be a little faster. The TRX90 is definitely a lot lighter, more nimble and a lot more comfortable. Maybe Honda did it to save weight and keep the price down but I am surprised there is no reverse or recoil starter. The ’86 has both of these features.

I don’t have any experience with other brands of quads but I do have 5 Honda quads and 1 Honda dirt bike. I continue to be impressed by the durability of these bikes and the relative ease of working on them. They are simple straightforward machines that are very honest. Hope to get another 10 years out of the TRX 90. I have a 9-month-old who will need a bike in about 5 years!

Hope that helps someone,
Hank

I recently purchased a used 2006 TRX90 to replace a ’86 TRX 125. The ’86 still runs great but it is really jarring to ride with no suspension other than tire pressure. When I was a kid I had ATC90 and, later an ATC110. I didn’t mind not having a suspension at all back then… In fact I loved both of those bikes and learned a lot about taking care of your machinery from them.

I am writing this in hopes of helping someone else with a TRX90. The fuel in the tank must have been years old. It smelled prehistoric. I imagined the carburetor was going to look like it was full of rubber cement.

The neutral light did not work even with the bike was in neutral and the starter would not click or engage at all — not surprising with no neutral indication.

I took all the plastics off the bike and gave it a good pressure washing and inspection. I disassembled the fuel tank and cleaned all the old gas out. Surprisingly the in-tank strainer was still okay. I removed the carb, carefully disassembled it being careful of gaskets and o-rings as I didn’t have a rebuild kit and cleaned it out. It was full of scaly flakes – really full. The slow jet was completely clogged and could only be unclogged using a very small diameter piece of wire and a lot of solvent. The main jet wasn’t much better but it wasn’t completely clogged. After a good soaking in solvent, I cleaned and blew everything out and reassembled.

The engine oil was black and a lot more the consistency of water than oil. I changed it and added new oil. The chain was okay but bone dry.

I put a gallon of fresh fuel in the tank and one of the fuel lines broke. A quick trip to Advance Auto and new fuel lines were installed. Should have done this from the start.

I always remind myself that when a bike is running poorly that you can almost always solve that issue in less than an hour with a good carb cleaning and fuel system inspection. It is easy to think it will clear itself up with running but that is not often true.

Still no neutral indication and no starter. Push starting the bike it did fire up and ran pretty good. After about 15 minutes the bike ran strong. I adjusted the idle speed down and it would just sit there an idle perfectly.

I’ll take a look at the valves soon but the idle is so smooth and the top end feels strong enough that I did not prioritize this task.

I pulled the left rear crank case cover and discovered that the neutral contact switch was broken right where the single bolt attaches it to the case. The contact plate that bolts to the shift drum was damaged as well. Just for fun, I grounded one of the contacts of the switch and the neutral light came on and the starter engaged and started the bike! That was good news. Parts ordered. Since this switch was going to be replaced, I cut the end off, grounded the neutral switch and cut the pink wire. Now the neutral light stays on in all gears and you can start the bike in gear. This will be fixed when the new switch comes in the mail. Cutting the pink wire does seem to make a difference in how fast the engine revs. I’ll write more when I put the new switch in and reconnect the pink wire.

The bikes shifts normally most of the time. Sometimes the shifter gets hung up and needs to be downshifted and then the upshift occurs normally. Also, it has popped out of 4th at full throttle a time or two. I adjusted the tensioner several times with no change in behavior. If it doesn’t clear up by the next oil change I’ll see what there is to see.

The bike needs tires a few brake adjustments, a chain tightening and a good all-around lube and I think my 9-year-old will be happy. I do think the old 125 might be a little faster. The TRX90 is definitely a lot lighter, more nimble and a lot more comfortable. Maybe Honda did it to save weight and keep the price down but I am surprised there is no reverse or recoil starter. The ’86 has both of these features.

I don’t have any experience with other brands of quads but I do have 5 Honda quads and 1 Honda dirt bike. I continue to be impressed by the durability of these bikes and the relative ease of working on them. They are simple straightforward machines that are very honest. Hope to get another 10 years out of the TRX 90. I have a 9-month-old who will need a bike in about 5 years!

Hope that helps someone,
Hank

I dug through this forum and many others trying to find a fix for our atv problem. No particular thread pulled it together with a hard fix.

The problem, 2006 TRX400FGA Rancher in limp mode flashing esp code 12. The service manual has you test and clean about 5 or 6 circuits. If that fails it calls for ECM replacement. Followed the service manual, tested circuits and finally replaced the ECM but this did not fix the problem.

This is what I did to fix the problem. Cleaned the following connectors, all main ones at the front of the machine, all the main ones along the side where ECM is located. The battery connections looked clean but I went over them with a wire brush. Also cleaned fuse holder and connectors in battery tray area. Now on first start esp light is still blinking but we drove atv for 10 minutes in limp mode, shut it off and on restart system went back to normal.

In my opinion my problem was probably the battery but the code 12 is definately a bad connection somewhere. I know this isn’t 100 percent a difinative solution but maybe it will help another member dealing with this issue.

I dug through this forum and many others trying to find a fix for our atv problem. No particular thread pulled it together with a hard fix.

The problem, 2006 TRX400FGA Rancher in limp mode flashing esp code 12. The service manual has you test and clean about 5 or 6 circuits. If that fails it calls for ECM replacement. Followed the service manual, tested circuits and finally replaced the ECM but this did not fix the problem.

This is what I did to fix the problem. Cleaned the following connectors, all main ones at the front of the machine, all the main ones along the side where ECM is located. The battery connections looked clean but I went over them with a wire brush. Also cleaned fuse holder and connectors in battery tray area. Now on first start esp light is still blinking but we drove atv for 10 minutes in limp mode, shut it off and on restart system went back to normal.

In my opinion my problem was probably the battery but the code 12 is definately a bad connection somewhere. I know this isn’t 100 percent a difinative solution but maybe it will help another member dealing with this issue.