A group of 3 couples what to stay somewhere near Pinnacle Creek and surrounding trials in mid March. But with Wifes with us need a nicer place than most.

New to fiberglass and going to attemp a simple overhead radio and speaker box. I’m curious to know what you all have done with fiberglass and how to work with it.

Tried my hand at a how-to video installing my new ORB Fabrication front lower high clearance arms on my ’15 900 4 seater. If anyone is interested, here it is…

PS Sorry, I had a cold, I was trying to hide it, not sure I did

So I’ve been debating for a while on whether or not I wanted to put a light bar on my 900 S and finally pulled the trigger on an 8" CREE dual row spot/flood combo from OPT-7. I was after a few things:

1) Obviously more light for night riding.
2) An option that was budget-friendly, but not so cheap it would be ruined in a year. This includes a harness, switch, and mounting brackets.
3) Easy to mount in a protected location and maintain full functionality of accessories (flip-up windshield mainly).

Here’s the Amazon link where I bought it:

First things first, I’ll be mounting this on the front bumper brackets of the Polaris Extreme front bumper:

Here are some pictures of the light bar:

It definitely seems to be well made and use quality materials. Water-tight connections, 8 feet of harness wire, 40-amp relay, 30-amp inline fuse, and a toggle on/off switch.

I needed to change the terminal rings so they’d fit on my accessory busbar. The standard rings should be large enough for most battery terminals.

I used a lighter and didn’t like the charring of the heat shrink so I picked up a Harbor Freight heat gun for future use.

I’ll finish the install tomorrow or later this week since it’s about 20 degrees outside and I don’t have heat or good lighting in the garage, but I did quickly hook it up to test the lights and it’s impressive especially for an 8" bar.

I made some chasing LED whips and they are cool but now I want to make some that only have a light bulb on top preferably the traditional 1156 socket style.

goodwinds has the solid rods available but where can I get some hollow ones to run some wires through them?

Thanks!

Just put 32 inch tires on my car and was really afraid of bending those uppers which looks like it will take out the axle and the shock. Didn’t really want to spend 200 bucks for the uppers or 400 bucks for a complete set, so I did a quick job on just the uppers to get me by for the week and spent about $10 on steel on them. Plated the sides with 1" x 1/8" flat stock, and did the top with 3/4". Finished it off by spraying truck bed coating on it. My original plan was to get some 1 1/4" .120 wall Chro Molly and then sleeves out with 1 inch 120 ChroMolly at the ends and then use the stock radius rod ends stuffed in there and everything welded together. But I thought that might take a little more time plus have to go source the material so this was just faster and easier.

Just put 32 inch tires on my car and was really afraid of bending those uppers which looks like it will take out the axle and the shock. Didn’t really want to spend 200 bucks for the uppers or 400 bucks for a complete set, so I did a quick job on just the uppers to get me by for the week and spent about $10 on steel on them. Plated the sides with 1" x 1/8" flat stock, and did the top with 3/4". Finished it off by spraying truck bed coating on it. My original plan was to get some 1 1/4" .120 wall Chro Molly and then sleeves out with 1 inch 120 ChroMolly at the ends and then use the stock radius rod ends stuffed in there and everything welded together. But I thought that might take a little more time plus have to go source the material so this was just faster and easier.

We recently got a tubing bender and I’m lookin for some free or at least inexpensive software for bending.

We recently got a tubing bender and I’m lookin for some free or at least inexpensive software for bending.

Hey all, here is a quick little schematic I drew up to make your LED’s dual brightness. Day/Night, Turn/Brake and Tail Lights etc.

The resistor doesn’t really need to be 2 watts (1 Watt would be ok) but as cheap as they are I took the safe route.

The 300 ohm value for the Parking light leg worked great for the 60ma LEDS that I chose, I ran 2 in parallel at each location. Feel free to experiment with resistor value for your application.

I bought these LED’s from SuperBright LED’s.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more…FYI_aQodn9EODA

This is a simple circuit that can be soldered up and encased in heat shrink and used for lots of purposes. Hope it helps some of you out.

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