I am looking at going to much larger tire then stock maybe 30 or 32and i was curiuos as to is there a company that acually makes a gear set for the front and the back to regear for a larger tire. all i heard about is re clutching which in my opion is pointless and there is rock crusher which is a route im not gonna go so man y makes gears for truck why not the same for atvs

I have a ’14 850 XP EPS. I’ve had it a year and the majority of the hours it has was spent pushing snow in three different storms last winter. So it only has around 25-30 hours on it I believe. Everything is just like it came from the dealership.

So I need to do the first service. A local dealership said it required an oil and filter change and then just check over everything. Nothing else to change, just check stuff like the air filter, plug, etc.. He said he estimated $250-$275 max. :motz:

Then I called the dealership I bought it from which is about a two hour drive and they were better. Change the oil and filter, change the differential fluid, and check everything else. A two hour job and it would run $175.

If its just the oil and filter change, I’ll do it myself. But if anything else really needs to be done, I’m willing to spend the $175. My lawn maintenance business pays for the work. I just don’t really have the time right now to take an entire day driving down, waiting, and then driving back home. Maybe after Thanksgiving but not anytime soon.

Any advice so I can decide whether or not to do this myself would be much appreciated.

I have a 2014 850 i put a rad relocate, snorkles,and gse exhaust on it. I’ve been on a few rides with it in deep water no issues. But just this weekend I took it out and every time I got into some deep water it would just bog down and lose power but it never shut off. I would get out and after a few mins it would run fine but if I went into some water again it just happen all over. Any thoughts I think it might be electrical but where should I start looking. It’s losing rpms and I know it’s not the belt. Any help guys would be appreciated.

Went out to start the bike on the weekend and wouldnt start and throwing code 651 4. Manual says injector 1 issue. Searched on the forum here and couldnt really see any fixes. Some say it was battery issue with low voltage, but this guy has an odyssey 925 with a tender on it all the time. Battery is only 6 months old, so wouldnt think it would be that but will check the voltages. Others say to check the wiring harness from the injector to the ECM for shorts or breaks. Will check that out. The way we got it to start was to switch relays from the EFI to the fan. Possible defective relay? I think it was just coincidence, but hopefully that was it. Anything else we should be looking for?
Thanks

Went out to start the bike on the weekend and wouldnt start and throwing code 651 4. Manual says injector 1 issue. Searched on the forum here and couldnt really see any fixes. Some say it was battery issue with low voltage, but this guy has an odyssey 925 with a tender on it all the time. Battery is only 6 months old, so wouldnt think it would be that but will check the voltages. Others say to check the wiring harness from the injector to the ECM for shorts or breaks. Will check that out. The way we got it to start was to switch relays from the EFI to the fan. Possible defective relay? I think it was just coincidence, but hopefully that was it. Anything else we should be looking for?
Thanks

from the first day of my owning the xp its been difficult to shift from park to high when running, I had looked at the primary and secondary without pulling either, finally pulled both for close inspection, found the one way clutch/bearing part #1521667 was seized, finally located a stocking dealer that had the tools and knowledge to replace it, when the tech attempted to disassemble the spider it was seized as well and spun the rear sheave loose instead, purchased a used clutch and rebuilt it instead, shifts as smooth as I could ever expect it to, so if ur having a hard to shift issue chk the one way clutch bearing, it should rotate one direction and not the other.

Thanks to Outdoor Powerhouse for great and prompt service.

riding again.

from the first day of my owning the xp its been difficult to shift from park to high when running, I had looked at the primary and secondary without pulling either, finally pulled both for close inspection, found the one way clutch/bearing part #1521667 was seized, finally located a stocking dealer that had the tools and knowledge to replace it, when the tech attempted to disassemble the spider it was seized as well and spun the rear sheave loose instead, purchased a used clutch and rebuilt it instead, shifts as smooth as I could ever expect it to, so if ur having a hard to shift issue chk the one way clutch bearing, it should rotate one direction and not the other.

Thanks to Outdoor Powerhouse for great and prompt service.

riding again.

Hi Guys I have a 2011 850 xp with 700 kms on it and i just picked up a 2013 850 xp with 200 kms on it. Mine has 14 inch allow wheels with 27’s his has factory steel 14" with 26’s. Otherwise these are stock machines.
His feels way faster than mine and wheelies without me pulling back on the bars, mine wont even come close.
Other than the 7 hp why would his be so much faster?
When I first traded to an 850 from a 570 I was disappointed that the feel wasn’t huge.

p.s. I was paranoid about the timing gear issue but mine has no idle fluctuation and no other common symptoms

Thanks in advance

Time to change the u-joint on the rear prop shaft of my 2011 850 xp, little bit of slop now. What is the easiest way to get it out? Does the rear diff had to be removed by the 4 bolts or is there an easier way? Thanks

Are they worth the money for aggressive trail riding? Im 318lbs so really want something customized to my weight if I upgrade.