Hi everyone, I’m hoping that someone here will be able to help me. The POD on my wheeler is reading .8V when in diagnostic mode, but when I check the battery, with my volt meter I have 12.4-12.5V when left off for 3-4 days and 14.4V when the RPM’s are at 3000. The battery light is on when ever the ATV is running regardless of the RPM’s and the speedo needle is flashing. Everything but the fuel gauge (reads full all the time) on the POD works. It’s more of an annoying problem, with the speedo needle blinking all the time.
My question is where does the POD get the reading from the battery? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this machine?
Does anyone know if the polaris X2 frames have camber in them ?
I’m trying to figure out if the frame is a little bent front to rear.
The rear most portion of the frame has 1.75" of deflection in it , proceeding in a upward direction.
The bike has a 1500lb towing capacity .In the back of my head I’m thinking this is why the frame has that camber. To compensate for trailer tongue load and its weight.
Anyone that has the X2 will know she is heavy up front..
So all loaded up and moving along ,the frame would begin to "straighten" to compensate for the load..
Much like the flat deck of a tractor trailer..
If it were straight it would belly down and break..
X2’s are a rare bird I know ,but if anyone has one , a 6ft level or a good straight edge , 5 mins of your time to check the frame would be appreciated
Recently did a boot swap on the old 700 Grizz and found a boogered up thread on the top knuckle ball joint.
Can I just order the part and replace this piece myself or does this have to be done by a prof. mechanic? What tool do I use to get it out? Some kind of press maybe?
PS Please excuse my posting this in a non-yamaha forum but as a new guy this topic seems like it might be common to other atvs as well.
Okay guys I have a sportsman 500 H.O EFI I can ride it for about 15 minutes then it starts spitting and sputtering and will not run, somebody told me i could be losing fuel pressure because my fuel pump gets hot and stops pumping. So i am just trying to figure out how to test the pressure.
’11 700 Grizz here and I’m in the middle of disassembling one of my front knuckles to do a boot replace and I’ve most def reached a stopping point. So far I’ve got the caliper off as well as the 2 castle nuts for the knuckle and the 1 for the steering arm, but for the life of me I can’t separate any of those joints the castle nuts were securing. I’ve beat on all of them using a big rubber mallet with no luck at all. Is there something else holding these joints together I haven’t found maybe?
My next ideas are to try to detach the shock from the lower control arm so maybe that’ll give way a little easier, as well as letting some PB blaster soak into the joints before pounding on them again. Thought I should ask on her first before using the PB though.
Last time I had to separate a joint like these was on my ’96 Cherokee replacing one of my steering linkages. Had to get a special 2 prong fork tool to insert into the joint and pound away before it came apart. For some reason I don’t think that’ll be the answer for this one though.
I’m all ears.
PS My apologies for posting this in a non-yamaha forum but I figure this is a common issue across the atv spectrum
Was working on a buddy’s carb tonight. Needle and float seem to be fine, hooked carb up to gas tank, fuel appears to be coming up between the needle guide and the needle inside the carb. Thinking a simple rebuild kit would fix the problem any insight would be helpful, no fuel coming through the overflow line.
Was working on a buddy’s carb tonight. Needle and float seem to be fine, hooked carb up to gas tank, fuel appears to be coming up between the needle guide and the needle inside the carb. Thinking a simple rebuild kit would fix the problem any insight would be helpful, no fuel coming through the overflow line.
