When I drive on tarmac, the steering wheel starts to sahke at 45mph and stops shaking at 50mph. I have checked the front wheels for dirt or gunk that could unbalance it but found none.

it’s the -14 EPS model.

Moose 387 rims
26X10X12 and 26X12X12 Swamp Lites
Polaris front and rear bumper
Polaris 3500lb synthetic rope winch
Polaris camo tall windshield
D2 fender flares

Can’t wait to hit the trails, should be a totally different bike than it was last year!

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Well the 570 has been running great up until last weekend. Right near the end of my ride i got a Check engine light and a code 0 520194 3

I already tried adjusting my throttle cable with no luck.

I guess it’s time to pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning.

Well the 570 has been running great up until last weekend. Right near the end of my ride i got a Check engine light and a code 0 520194 3

I already tried adjusting my throttle cable with no luck.

I guess it’s time to pull the throttle body and give it a good cleaning.

Seems a simple thing, but I don’t know how long mine has gone without it, though there is only about 30 miles on it. The rubber strap on the battery is an awful piece of crap, and mine proved it somewhere along the way. While looking at it the other day, I found mine half-there. Looks almost like somebody cut it, it was so perfectly sliced. At any rate, there was one S hook and about a third of the rubber there, with nothing holding the battery down. A bungee cord is going to be double wrapped around it this time-I’m not buying another likely overpriced piece of crap.

:lame:

Since 99.9% of the time I ride one up, I don’t need the backrest part of the Touring seat. I didn’t buy a Touring with the intentions of carrying a passenger, I bought it for the stability that the longer wheelbase offers. The backrest is in the way of putting a rack bag on. However, the 570 backrest doesn’t just pop out like the XP backrest does. The bracket that holds it in place is also part of the main seat mount, with the grommets that the seat snaps into to hold it in place.
It’s a simple matter of removing four screws to remove the bracket, but you must replace it with another plate. Easy to fab one up and install, and just as easy to put the backrest back on if you ever wanted to. I used a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate, which is plenty since the plate doesn’t really support any weight to speak of. With my cargo bag mounted, it acts as a backrest if I ever need to carry a passenger.
A few pictures.

While doing some light riding this weekend, the quad became stuck, and was lifted by the front rack, and managed to snap the plastic off. The arrows in this image point at the broken area. I can’t imagine having to replace the entire lid for such a simple break. I am wondering if there are any "upgrades" or parts that eliminate the need to depend on the plastic hinge.

My wife and I now have identical twin 570 T EPS atv’s. When I say twins, they even have the same build date on them. The dealer I bought mine from changed out the clutch weights for the high altitude set, as part of their machine setup, while my wife’s dealer didn’t do the high altitude setup. Since our machines are twins, all the way down to the same tire/wheel combination, it will be interesting to see if the different clutch weights actually make a noticeable difference.

Come out to wellsville this weekend if you are somewhat nearby. There will be 2 of us with 570s there and a few other buddies. Friday night and Saturday

I see the two lights under the front rack are on a relay next to the eps relay do I run a single wire to power that relay when on high beam or jump wires at the switch to have all 3 on by keeping that relay on? not sure if older sportsmans had a relay or not for the 2 fixed lamps.