Brand New "Benson Racing" LED Light Bars, free shipping and limited lifetime warranty. We carry all sizes from:
Double Row
6" Light bar $40-36watt LED
12" Light bar $65-72watt LED
20" Light bar $75-120watt LED
30" Light bar $135-180watt LED
40" Light bar $145-240watt LED
50" Light bar $155-288watt LED
52" Light bar $165-300watt LED
Curved Double Row
30" Light bar $180
40" Light bar $200
50" Light bar $220
All in stock and 2x18w Cree LED work light $50 (SPECIAL!!!)
All Lights are water resistant, dust proof, and shock proof…..
Text or call me at 951.415.3635
I recently order a unloaded ssv works behind seat sub for my rzr 1k. well it didn’t not come unloaded, it came with the ssv works sub and amp that plugs in to the ssv works over head stereo. but I don’t have a ssv works over head stereo I have a custom fiber glassed over head stereo that I made and is controlled by wet sounds blue tooth controller.
iam curous on how it would sound set up the way it is now instead of putting my Rockford fosgate p3 sub in powered by a Rockford 500w x 1 amp. there are 6 wires coming out of the amp 2 for main power and ground for the amp and then 4 wires on a separate plug. so my question is are the 4 wires (blue, red, white, and black) just a hi level input setup and which wires are which?
I recently order a unloaded ssv works behind seat sub for my rzr 1k. well it didn’t not come unloaded, it came with the ssv works sub and amp that plugs in to the ssv works over head stereo. but I don’t have a ssv works over head stereo I have a custom fiber glassed over head stereo that I made and is controlled by wet sounds blue tooth controller.
iam curous on how it would sound set up the way it is now instead of putting my Rockford fosgate p3 sub in powered by a Rockford 500w x 1 amp. there are 6 wires coming out of the amp 2 for main power and ground for the amp and then 4 wires on a separate plug. so my question is are the 4 wires (blue, red, white, and black) just a hi level input setup and which wires are which?
With the winches , lights , stereo’s , GPS and all the other elec. devises we install dont forget about the power to run them. Running a dual battery setup is good insurance that you get home and that your RZR will start when you want it to. So we offer you the BEST isolator you can buy.
TrueAm has just introduced a new battery isolation product for the UTV marketplace. Developed from years of interaction with, and feedback from, UTV owners worldwide we are proud to introduce the completely new TRUE UTV-SBI-15. This is the first and only Smart Battery Isolator designed from the ground up exclusively to meet the demanding needs of the UTV marketplace.
The TRUE UTV-SBI-15 has been designed for efficiency focusing on every aspect of installation and operation on today’s stator based electrical systems. It is designed with TrueAm’s PEP programming which insures you maximum efficiency and battery attribute protection.
It is:
Smaller
Smarter
Stronger
More durable with stud placement that allows for simple easy connection.
Specifically designed to leave suspended or mount to any flat clean surface (even the battery case) with the included 3M Dual Lock® or any other surface with the included screws. The consumers have spoken and we listened.
You will find that the new TRUE UTV-SBI-15 is not only a streamlined version of our standard SBI but it is also be more frugally priced. Honestly a better product and a better price is sure to make it a winning solution
With the winches , lights , stereo’s , GPS and all the other elec. devises we install dont forget about the power to run them. Running a dual battery setup is good insurance that you get home and that your RZR will start when you want it to. So we offer you the BEST isolator you can buy.
TrueAm has just introduced a new battery isolation product for the UTV marketplace. Developed from years of interaction with, and feedback from, UTV owners worldwide we are proud to introduce the completely new TRUE UTV-SBI-15. This is the first and only Smart Battery Isolator designed from the ground up exclusively to meet the demanding needs of the UTV marketplace.
The TRUE UTV-SBI-15 has been designed for efficiency focusing on every aspect of installation and operation on today’s stator based electrical systems. It is designed with TrueAm’s PEP programming which insures you maximum efficiency and battery attribute protection.
It is:
Smaller
Smarter
Stronger
More durable with stud placement that allows for simple easy connection.
Specifically designed to leave suspended or mount to any flat clean surface (even the battery case) with the included 3M Dual Lock® or any other surface with the included screws. The consumers have spoken and we listened.
You will find that the new TRUE UTV-SBI-15 is not only a streamlined version of our standard SBI but it is also be more frugally priced. Honestly a better product and a better price is sure to make it a winning solution
This is a sub-thread of my main build thread http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-10…ome-build.html. The stereo ended up being such a big project that I decided to create a separate thread with more detail here.
Components I used for my 2015 XP41k:
Kicker PXiBT50.2 Bluetooth "Headunit"
JL Audio M700/5 5 Channel Marine Amp
JL Audio MX650 6.5" Coaxils
JL Audio M10W5-SH-WH 10" Sub
JL Audio HD-RLC remote gain control
JL Audio XML-WHTSC16-25 Speaker Wire
JL Audio XMD-WHTAIC2-3 3′ RCA
(2) JL Audio XMD-WHYAICY-1F2M 1 RCA in to 2 out Y Connectors
KnuKonceptz 4ga Ultra Fleks power/ground cable
SSV Works Glove Box Sub Box
SSV Works Front Speaker Pods
Odyssey PC925 Battery
More to come…
The first big hurdle to overcome is that the JL Audio sub won’t fit in the sub box because the glove box sticks out just enough that the magnet hits and it wont’ sit flush. I could only find MDF spacer rings and actually bought one and had planned on rhino lining it but the more I thought about it the more it seemed like a horrible idea.
I ended up making a spacer out of plexi glass. Its probably not even a 1/4" thick but is just enough to get the sub to fit. You can get the plexi from Home Depot or Lowes for around $20 depending on the size of sheet you buy. Its pretty easy to work with too. I just used a jig saw to cut the holes. Be sure to cut the inside first. I put a bead of silicon between the ring and the box to prevent air leaks.
You also have to make sure the sub is aligned the correct way to fit in the box. I had the best luck turning the logo to the 8:00 position which still allowed me to mount the grill so it looks correct. This is all hidden under the dash anyway so it doesn’t really matter.
Now that the sub is mounted and the box is installed another problem comes up… The storage box in the middle of the dash hits the huge grill/speaker surround on this sub.
I was able to make it fit by loosening the bracket that the storage box attaches to while installing the storage box and then tightening it back up. Everything fits like this but the storage box ends up being a little crooked. I don’t think anyone will notice unless I point it out.
This is a sub-thread of my main build thread http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-10…ome-build.html. The stereo ended up being such a big project that I decided to create a separate thread with more detail here.
Components I used for my 2015 XP41k:
Kicker PXiBT50.2 Bluetooth "Headunit"
JL Audio M700/5 5 Channel Marine Amp
JL Audio MX650 6.5" Coaxils
JL Audio M10W5-SH-WH 10" Sub
JL Audio HD-RLC remote gain control
JL Audio XML-WHTSC16-25 Speaker Wire
JL Audio XMD-WHTAIC2-3 3′ RCA
(2) JL Audio XMD-WHYAICY-1F2M 1 RCA in to 2 out Y Connectors
KnuKonceptz 4ga Ultra Fleks power/ground cable
SSV Works Glove Box Sub Box
SSV Works Front Speaker Pods
Odyssey PC925 Battery
More to come…
The first big hurdle to overcome is that the JL Audio sub won’t fit in the sub box because the glove box sticks out just enough that the magnet hits and it wont’ sit flush. I could only find MDF spacer rings and actually bought one and had planned on rhino lining it but the more I thought about it the more it seemed like a horrible idea.
I ended up making a spacer out of plexi glass. Its probably not even a 1/4" thick but is just enough to get the sub to fit. You can get the plexi from Home Depot or Lowes for around $20 depending on the size of sheet you buy. Its pretty easy to work with too. I just used a jig saw to cut the holes. Be sure to cut the inside first. I put a bead of silicon between the ring and the box to prevent air leaks.
You also have to make sure the sub is aligned the correct way to fit in the box. I had the best luck turning the logo to the 8:00 position which still allowed me to mount the grill so it looks correct. This is all hidden under the dash anyway so it doesn’t really matter.
Now that the sub is mounted and the box is installed another problem comes up… The storage box in the middle of the dash hits the huge grill/speaker surround on this sub.
I was able to make it fit by loosening the bracket that the storage box attaches to while installing the storage box and then tightening it back up. Everything fits like this but the storage box ends up being a little crooked. I don’t think anyone will notice unless I point it out.
Old part – Polaris – 4014029 – REG-3PH,50A,SERIES,HISPD
New part – Polaris – 4015229 – REG-3PH,50A,SERIES,HISPD,TCAP
Aftermarket part – ricks motorsports – 10-564H – "hotshot mosfet"
Now for what I know "first hand", not hearsay. FYI my voltage regulator #4014029 has not failed nor has my machine thrown any codes that would indicate anything other than a steady within parameter voltage is being supplied. I have observed the volt gauge on many rides during different electrical loads. Volts will vary between 13.8 and 14.1 depending on what rpm and electrical load. While winching the volts have dropped to 11.5 before I let up to let voltage rise.
I ordered ricks aftermarket voltage regulator and today I installed it. All connectors are clean and di-electric grease was used on all connections. After install I ran the machine in garage for testing purposes. First run I did not apply any additional electrical load and the voltage varied between 13.9 and 14.4 volts. I allowed machine to run for approx. 5 min at variable rpm while monitoring the surface temperature of regulator. The regulator reached 220 degrees before I shut machine down. Second test I ran for same approx. time while under load of high beams, front light bar, rear lights, stealth 10 soundbar at half vol, and when rad fan came on volts dropped to 12.7 then right back to the normal 13.9- 14.4. The temperature still increased to 215 before I shut machine done this time. So at this point I went on a little 5 min test drive, upon return temp of regulator was 190 degrees. I don’t know where this info stands compared to original regulator as I didn’t measure temps prior to replacement. I only measured temps of aftermarket because it supposedly runs cooler. I assumed a hot temp to be 210 degrees as this is when the stock regulator will, I believe, shut itself down to keep from burning up. So not sure yet where I’m at on this. It doesn’t seem to regulate voltage as well as stocker, given that voltage dropped when fan cut on, 12.7 then right back to 14.2. Seems to get pretty hot, not sure how hot is too hot.
Now on to the newest polaris voltage regulator part # 4015229. I just found out that this regulator is now available. Very curious to know what improvements, if any where made to this part including what the TCAP stands for at the end of the product description. Would furthermore like to know from those running with this regulator how it holds up under electrical stress, heat, and the water which it is inevitably be exposed to.
I think I will be ordering the new polaris part # and installing it. I am just too curious not to.
I am in the process of switching over to dual Odyssy batteries and have had no luck in sourcing 6 ga wire. None of the automotive parts houses have 6ga, plenty of 4 and 8 ga. Could use 4ga but a lot harder to use. Guess I will have to try the UTV dealer tomorrow but not looking forward to those prices.
