I nearly crapped my pants when I checked my 2008 Big Bears axles at the diffs, all 4 had up and down play when a pulled on the green spindle part. 3 had about 1/8" of play and the front left had about 1/4" of play. I quickly check my 97 Kodiak – it had no play on either of the front axles at the diff.
I only have 700km on this ATV and I’ve changed the diff gear oil at each 100km interval. It always clean, no water or metallic shavings and the seals don’t leak. I’ve never had a problem with this ATV, no grinding or anything.
I quickly did a search on this forum but nothing came up. I can’t see all four bearing being bad this soon, is it possible that this play is normal?
I have 2 450 kodiaks. My 05 idles perfect. But my 06 is driving me crazy. It is bone stock but I can find that sweet spot. On my 05 I have the mixture screw 3 turns out. I’ve taken the 06 as far as 6 turns out but it is still has a lean cough. Any idea?
I have 2 450 kodiaks. My 05 idles perfect. But my 06 is driving me crazy. It is bone stock but I can find that sweet spot. On my 05 I have the mixture screw 3 turns out. I’ve taken the 06 as far as 6 turns out but it is still has a lean cough. Any idea?
I’ve been going thru my 1997 Kodiak before winter and the last thing I need a bit of help with is with the lack of charging of the battery while driving or at idle. The battery is fine, reads 12.8 volts before starting, once I start the ATV the voltage drops to 12.4 volts at idle and if I rev the engine the voltage drops further – while running the engine the voltage should read about 14.3 volts.
I’ve already checked the stator by probing the 3 white wire plug – all readings were at 0.8 ohms so it’s good. But I’m having a problem locating the source coil electrical connector (2 pin plug with a brown & green wire) and the pick up coil electrical connector (2 pin plug with a red & white wire). These plugs are supposed to be located next to the CDI box but no plugs that fit this description are there. In the attached picture, am I looking in the right spot?
Also, while looking around for these plugs I found this – I’m assuming it’s not a factory Yamaha starter solenoid, it has one terminal end with no wire attached. Still starts good though:
I would like to know the difference between the choke jet and main jet since the both is the exact same size in the part.. but the holes are slightly difference in size.. so I would like to know which one is which since I have misplaced both to have it cleaned.. so now I can’t tell which is which.. Help please..
by the way I’m rebuilding the carb on my 2005 yamaha bruin 250.
1.) Change the rear engine oil seal – it’s leaking and filling the boot with oil. I realize it might be just the nut being loose, but since I got do all that work just to get to it I’m gonna change the seal either way. I don’t feel any play in the bearing, but should I change it anyway since I’m right there?
2.) There is the smallest amount of play (1/2 mm) in the rear axle on the non-brake side of the axle and the seal is seeping a little. How hard is it to change this seal & bearing?
I was thinking the best way to do these jobs was to first pull the rear axle, swap out the seal and bearing, then reasemble it. Then, remove the rear axle swingarm as an assembly to get to the rear axle seal. DOes this sound like the easist way to this?
I want to put a set of front disc brakes on my 1997 Kodiak. There’s a guy selling a complete set of components for a 1999 Kodiak (a-arms, knuckles, brakes, axles, tie rods and steering column). Are these parts interchangeable?
I’ve got this intermittant grinding or rattling noise from the rear, seems to be the disc brack area, on my 1989/90 Big Bear FW. It seems more prevalent riding up hill, or at med speed on flat, gravel. It goes away immediately if I tap the rear brake lever, but back again soon after.
I’ve completely rebuilt the rear brake, new pads and setup to the service manual, but can’t stop it.
