I have and am real familiar with the old school trx 300’s, but just picked up a 350 and am not familiar with how the fan works. The oil temp light comes on when you turn the key and goes out upon starting, I assume like it should. I have not rode it over a mile or so at a time yet, so the fan has never come on, if I take it uot for a ride and the fan does not work, I assume the light will come on before it does any damage, is this correct??
Also where do you guys that ride these things mount the solenoid for the winch?
Trying get this quad running for the kid. Need some help. No gears stays in neutral. Happend after rigging a toggle switch to replace a missing ignition. Blew a fuse in the process. What kind of issue might this be?
Trying get this quad running for the kid. Need some help. No gears stays in neutral. Happend after rigging a toggle switch to replace a missing ignition. Blew a fuse in the process. What kind of issue might this be?
my Honda 400ex has been giving me some problems starting lately sometimes it will start fine other time there is just one click coming from the solenoid I have noticed when it does that if I tap the starter solenoid with a hammer I can get it to crank I also just cleaned up all the terminals and checked the battery voltage its 12.64 volts anyone have any idea I just changed the started solenoid not to long ago I bought one new off ebay for like 12 bucks I wouldn’t think that’s bad already thanks
Hey guys. I just got an 07 400ex yesterday, previously had an old school 250x. It’s all stock and one of the best ATVs I’ve ever owned. And that’s just from a days worth of riding.
Anyways guys, the thing is amaculate. Hardly ever ridden before. The only issue I have is the headlights won’t work. The headlight assembly is brand new and the previous owner put it in. My fuses (there were 2 right? One backup and the actual used one?) are both good. My tail light works. The bulbs are brand new and not shot. I pulled the connector to the headlight assembly and the connections are clean. Defective assembly maybe? Anyone else have this problem before? Is there a ground I’m missing or something? Thanks.
Quick overview; I acquired these Atv’s both with seized motors. One has a trashed piston/cylinder/crank and the other had a trashed bottom end. I put a new cylinder/piston on a bottom end I had laying around and put it back in the bike. (I haven’t started in on the motor with the trash lower end yet. Still waiting on parts for that motor).
Ok so I got my zombie motor all put back together and installed in the bike. I flushed the motor with diesel since the lower end had been sitting open in my basement for a few years. I filled it up through the dip stick hole and with the spark plug out I cranked it over for a few minutes, drained through a cheese cloth and poured it back into the motor. Lots of chunks and even some very fine metal shavings came out. I did that 3 times, then filled it up with cheap oil and put the spark plug back in. She fired right up without a complaint and idled nice for about 10 minutes until I shut it down and drained the oil, put in a new filter and refilled with oil. Thinking everything was great, I installed the intake box and tubes to complete the intake system. I fired it back up and after a few minutes of idling, the rpm started to climb.
I believe its an air leak, since it was a pain in the ass to get all the intake tubes hooked up and before they were hooked up it ran normal. Also because when it starts to idle high, I can pull the choke and then it runs like normal. But, the idle screw on the carburetor is hard to turn and doesn’t seem to have any affect on idle speed. With the choke on everything sounds and looks good. Great throttle response and produces good power. Starts on first crank every time. I inspected the carb boot and it looks good. All clamps are tight.
I noticed that on the bottom of the carb there are 2 nipples. one looks like a drain for the float bowl, and the other is right behind the idle screw. Is that suppose to be plugged? There are breather/vacuum lines, but I can’t see where it would plug into the carb. What should my next course of action be? Should I do a starting fluid test by spraying the fittings during idle? Also, I know that the crank case isn’t sealed completely, although it doesn’t leak oil. when I filled the crank case with diesel, it was leaking pretty good from around the output shaft, but I wouldn’t think that leaky crank case would cause a lean condition on a 4 stroke. And i thought lean conditions made for difficult starting once warm. When its cold it seems to idle fine for maybe a minute, then like somebody is playing with the throttle the rpm starts climbing once it starts warming up. Any suggestions?
New member here. So somebody picked up these ATVs cheap thinking about me and my girlfriend. Didn’t really know the condition. One cranked over and sounded promising and the other was siezed up tight. Both are ’86. It just so happened that I owned a TRX 350 for a very short time that ran but was pretty beat up. Never even took it for a ride. It was broken down and many of the parts sold, but a few lingered around that are now worth a lot more than I was getting for them…
So my buddy and I were riding the other week and out of no where my buddy’s engine siezed up. He has 04 450r. I believe it was from lack of engine oil he was pretty low. The Tranny oil was good tho. It has some aftermarket parts like new radiator and hoses. Bigger radiator. Those expensive flex handle bars, ss black rims. And a aftermarket pipe. What I’m asking is, how much should I pay for this thing. keep in consideration the cost of how much to fix it. I will be doing the work my self I’m just not familiar with what these bikes are worth. He told me $1600. Is that too much?
I got this machine running after having sat for MANY years. Went about 20 miles on it and when I got back the front brakes were very hot. Further, I could not compress the brake handle at all. After things cooled off, I could once again compress the handle normally. I have not taken anything apart yet. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should look for?
Just picked up a clean 700xx to keep myself entertained while I decide what to do with my 2003 400ex. Its burning some oil. Got a good 12 years out of it and would be happy to get another 5-7 riding seasons if possible.
1. Who do you suggest for a good top end kit for a 2003 400ex?
2. With the way it is smoking I am sure the cylinder is in need of more than just some honing. I imagine it needs to be bored a bit. Do I clean up the cylinder for a slightly larger piston or find either a stock bore cylinder or entertain one of the bigger bore cylinders?
3. 10:1 compression piston ok to go with while still getting some years out of it? I do not mind running good gas nor do I mind spending the money on a ceramic coated or anodized piston with coated skirts to help maximize the life of the engine.
4. Do I entertain a stock to just above stock compression 440 kit or is the stock connecting rod a weak point with increased power?
5. Cost is not a factor. I want quality components first followed by slight increase in power if it is possible using quality parts. If stock bore and compression is what is needed to match durability of a stock 400ex so be it.
