I’ve read that the EFI Ranchers have a reserve? Does this just kick in when the gas level gets below one bar (I’ve been there before lol)? Or is there a petcock like on my carbed 250?

I recently bought a 2012 rancher that has sat for most of the last 3 years. It wasn’t even due for its first service yet. I made a couple big mistakes out the gate that I’m already paying for. I didn’t go through the atv, it ran so I rode it. The guy said he treated the fuel so I didn’t drain what little was left of the old, I just put more new on top of it. Yes, I’ve already been spanked in the wallet for this one.

So far, I’ve found that the gas sitting in it for the last 3 years has wreaked havoc. The atv, of course, eventually quit running. Searching forums clued me in that it was starving for fuel. In short, the screen on top of the petcock was disintegrated. The fuel gauge was rusted stuck. The fuel sock in the fuel pump assembly was totally black and presumably stopped up. There was a rusty orange nasty coating on everything and a varnish-like crud in the bottom of the fuel pump assembly that I had to gently chip out. I’m waiting on parts to see if it’s fixed.

A little while before it quit running, I started to notice that when I first started it up, the throttle was very stiff and difficult to push. It might have been this way since day one, but I hadn’t noticed. Once the atv starts and runs for a couple minutes, the throttle lightens up to what I feel like it should be. While it’s stiff, if you mash it hard enough, the throttle will spool up, but it takes a while to come back down. I’m told it’s fuel injected. Cable problem? Other ideas? Thanks for any good advice.

2007 Rancher ES has been acting up the last few times when putting it in 4×4. First few times the green light would go on and off as i was shifting it into 4×4 and would take a min to engage. Tried it today and nothing…no green light or 4×4…any ideas? Thanks

Is there a way to put a speedometer on a 2001 rancher 2×4 ?

I am about to rebuild my TRX 350 and the piston side of the rod is toast. Does not look like enough material on the rod to have it bored and install a bushing so I was looking around at cranks but not sure what to go with is there anybody that has any experience w/ hot rods cranks vs. oem.
I’m not stroking or making a race(ha ha ha trx350 race motor) engine just want a good, fair priced piece of equipment.
I’ve read of several horror stories of the hot rod cranks but only on 2-stroke and other brands as I have not been able to find anyone reviewing the stock TRX350.
If anyone has any sage advise I would love to hear it.

Thanks
Eric

i recently bought a new carburetor for my 350 rancher. i was going to install an inline fuel filter. anyone do this ever? good idea? if so what size is the fuel lines. 5/16" , 1/4" , or 3/8 cant find info anywhere? also does the plastic clear ones work good, or should i get a metal cnc macined one? any help would be greatly appreciated.

so I bought a rancher off of craigslist with the hopes of building it up into a fairly badass off road machine. I got it for cheap enough that I felt like I could take on a project working on it and at the same time modify it a little to suit me for what I want it for.

So the bad. theres a lot.

It seems like every piece of the fenders are broken in some way shape or form. mostly, the clips that hold the fenders together or to the frame are missing.

one of the front cv boots is torn

one front bearing is bad

front brakes are shot. hand brake is mush.

handle bar controls for the rear brakes, reverse, parking brake, and choke are broken, half fixed, or missing entirely.

carb had no air filter, choke cable is broken off. idles high like the choke is stuck open.

rear brake cable on the foot pedal is broken off. when pushing the machine into the shop it seems like the parking brake is locked up? rear brake is locked up? not sure yet. hard to push and it holds itself in place while on a small incline going into my shop.

rear rack is pretty damaged. the mounts on the frame side are snapped off as well.

electronic shift is strange. from neutral at idle, the machine engages hard into gear. no strange noises but jumps the machine forward. while riding it, it wouldn’t upshift and seemed to be bouncing off the rev limiter. did shift into the 2nd after alittle more riding up and down the drive way. I think the machine sat for a year or so the guy said. maybe something wrong with the clutches?

also has parts of the frame that are a little rusted through in the front end. Im going to chop out whats bad, put some slugs in and replace what is bad and reweld.

ok, enough of all the problems. first thing I did this morning was order a Clymer manual.

to make it more of what I wanted I took the crow bar to my wallet and got the old credit card out and ordered some stuff from highlifter. I got a spool locker, disc brake conversion, the wide open front drive shaft disengage unit (same as the warn 4-2-4), and the outlaw clutch kit.

Im debating on whether to do a gear reduction but not sure I need it. I don’t need 29.5 outlaws but would like to get a decent size mud tire to put on the rancher. thinking some size of vampire. Really thinking about doing it now because im going to have the whole thing apart and would rather do it now then have to take it all apart again if that’s what I decide I want. Im not sure what the machine can really handle stock so im open to options.

Ill update this thread as I go, get more parts, and snap more bolts. would appreciate all input and help getting this thing going. so if you guys have any recommendations or tips feel free to chime in.

so I bought a rancher off of craigslist with the hopes of building it up into a fairly badass off road machine. I got it for cheap enough that I felt like I could take on a project working on it and at the same time modify it a little to suit me for what I want it for.

So the bad. theres a lot.

It seems like every piece of the fenders are broken in some way shape or form. mostly, the clips that hold the fenders together or to the frame are missing.

one of the front cv boots is torn

one front bearing is bad

front brakes are shot. hand brake is mush.

handle bar controls for the rear brakes, reverse, parking brake, and choke are broken, half fixed, or missing entirely.

carb had no air filter, choke cable is broken off. idles high like the choke is stuck open.

rear brake cable on the foot pedal is broken off. when pushing the machine into the shop it seems like the parking brake is locked up? rear brake is locked up? not sure yet. hard to push and it holds itself in place while on a small incline going into my shop.

rear rack is pretty damaged. the mounts on the frame side are snapped off as well.

electronic shift is strange. from neutral at idle, the machine engages hard into gear. no strange noises but jumps the machine forward. while riding it, it wouldn’t upshift and seemed to be bouncing off the rev limiter. did shift into the 2nd after alittle more riding up and down the drive way. I think the machine sat for a year or so the guy said. maybe something wrong with the clutches?

also has parts of the frame that are a little rusted through in the front end. Im going to chop out whats bad, put some slugs in and replace what is bad and reweld.

ok, enough of all the problems. first thing I did this morning was order a Clymer manual.

to make it more of what I wanted I took the crow bar to my wallet and got the old credit card out and ordered some stuff from highlifter. I got a spool locker, disc brake conversion, the wide open front drive shaft disengage unit (same as the warn 4-2-4), and the outlaw clutch kit.

Im debating on whether to do a gear reduction but not sure I need it. I don’t need 29.5 outlaws but would like to get a decent size mud tire to put on the rancher. thinking some size of vampire. Really thinking about doing it now because im going to have the whole thing apart and would rather do it now then have to take it all apart again if that’s what I decide I want. Im not sure what the machine can really handle stock so im open to options.

Ill update this thread as I go, get more parts, and snap more bolts. would appreciate all input and help getting this thing going. so if you guys have any recommendations or tips feel free to chime in.

Can someone please give me the Honda part number for a factory replacement seat for my 2008 Honda Rancher 420? I think this is it but want to be sure. Thanks 77100-HP5-E302A

The oil shows full when cold but when i check the oil (dipstick not treaded in) when warm, there is no trace of oil on the dipstick.