Anyone else think shifting out of reverse is a little tough? Maybe I need to hit the gym…

i have recently bought this 05 rancher, it had a blown top end when i purchased it i have got it running strong with no smoke, very successful after doing a top end rebuild. Now i am just working out the little kinks, and I’m pulling out my hair on this one. When i purchased this atv the oil temp light would stay after start up. So after the system check it you would start it and the oil temp would stay on?? (no way the oil is hot right after a cold start) So i didn’t run much before i did the top end rebuild. Now that the quad is running strong I’m trying to get this light off.. i have ran the quad with the new top end enough to get the fan to kick on, on its own. So that would tell the oil temp sensor must be okay, when the fan did kick on the light remind on. So my question is the oil temp sensor a two stage sensor? i have checked all the wiring going to sensor (light blue) Just doesn’t make since to me.. Like is it possible that a bad ecu would cause this? Every singe things else works perfect. Any input would be great. And if someone has a detailed wiring diagram for this atv that would be great ( can’t find anything online) thought id try on here with y’all before i buy i repair manual. Thanks for Your time

Hello,

And welcome to the bike that has become a stone around my neck. This is a neighbor’s low mileage, low hours 08 420FE Rancher that "ran when parked" nine months or so ago. He asked me to clean the fuel tank, throttle body, change the oil, install a new battery and get it running. Right . . . . . !!

Two bent valves replaced later and a bore to the next oversize, the engine was discovered to be far out of timing and still hitting a valve. But the timing chain, tensioner and tensioner arm were all in good shape. The tensioner still had lots of push remaining and the teeth on the timing gear were all in good shape.

But looking at the shop manual, it could not be brought into proper timing the normal way. The pressed on timing gear on the end of the camshaft has spun about 90 degrees or so from normal. This leaves the exhaust valve widely open to the point of hitting the piston.

This is a bike that has had pititful oil service and had very sticky valves in the valve guides due to unburned fuel varnish. Our theory is that a valve stuck badly and when I hit the starter button after installing a new battery . . . . things spun on that camshaft. I will procure a new camshaft starting tomorrow because there’s no way to reindex this one and I’m not installing it "wrong" to get the timing "right".

Anybody ever heard of anything like this?

Rick

I went to a Honda dealer and a Suzuki dealer now there is phone calls with great deals.ive been looking at the rancher 420 4×4 with power sterring and irs and es shifting.the Suzuki 400 has manual shifting and there 500 has cvt.i know this is a Honda forum but is the Honda much better?ive owned over 10 Hondas and love them

I am wondering if somebody can explain to me in a very detailed manner on how to convert my 2001 Rancher 350FE ES to a foot shift. I understand a little bit as far as removing the shift motor and getting in and removing the reduction gears but I am not the greatest mechanic, just self taught/made at it.
So if somebody’s possibly got some pictures or very good at explaining how this all works that would be a great help to me. I already have my bolt on foot shifter also. Just need to disable the ES.

Hi Everybody.

I did a stupid thing today. I looked, and saw that the coolant in the reservoir tank was very close to the bottom line of the fill sets. I added more coolant, and went about an inch and a half over the top fill line… Stupid move there…

I was wondering, since the manual says not to fill from the radiator, could I use the turkey baster method to suck some fluid out of the radiator, and just heat the motor up to cycle the fluid into the reserve, or is there some way to drain the reserve tank?

I know it is a dumb question, but I need to figure out how to equal this out. I don’t want to kill my atv from heat, or overpressure of any fluid.

Thanks.

hi guys. new guy here and i just picked up a ’10 rancher 4×4 foot shift. i am doing the full tune up/fluid changes on it so i have a baseline to start from. i ordered up three pints of the honda 80-90 hypoid axle lube and was wondering if there is a limited slip additive that needs to be added to this lube or if it is already in it. did a couple of searches but could not really find any info one way or the other.thanks!

Was going down a fairly steep hill. As I got 3/4 of the way down in 1st gear it started to roll really fast so I had to put my brakes on. When I got to the bottom and it slowed down it was like it was going slow enough it "went" back into 1st gear. Is it suppose to do this? If not, what could be causing it to do this. I have a 2001 Foreman and it doesn’t do that. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Hello all, I thought I posted on this forum a couple of weeks ago, but I was unable to login and find my post. Oh well.
Anyways, I’m having some electric shifting issues.
The battery is good.
I just replaced the shift engine and the angle sensor.

Here’s my scenario:
When I’m riding, my speedometer will randomly go out and then shortly after my electric shifting will stop working. I posted on the forums and everyone suggested the angle sensor and shift engine or battery, so I replaced them all (minus the battery – which is good)
However, the problem still persists. Would I be crazy if I thought it was the speedometer? If it’s not the speedometer, the only thing left would be somewhere in the wiring harness/computer right?

Can aftermarket headlight bulbs be purchased for the 2011 Rancher or can you only buy from Honda?

not looking to switch to HID’s just want to change the YELLOW color bulb to a more WHITE color to match the LED light bar!

Thanks