I took the air pressure sensor from my 2013 and installed it on the lean running bike. What a difference. The bike runs great and the cooling fan does not come on as often.
There is no doubt that we have a bad sensor. However, in order to get some answers. This is what I have been doing the last couple of days .
1. I called Yamaha. I asked for an altitude to voltage chart or information for the air pressure sensor. After being shuffled around, I was told that it was only available to authorized dealers.
2. I called three large dealers in the area. Two wanted me to take to them. (Neither one seemed to have a clue of what I was asking.) One said he would check into it. He called back and stated “not available”.
3. I called SAE . They had nothing.
4. I called Delphi which manufactures sensors for automotive use. ( no luck)
5. A lot of computer research which produced nothing.
Now this could be an isolated problem or something we all should be aware of. I am aware that many are installing controllers to correct a part throttle lean condition. But this bike was extremely lean. There could be a fine line between the two conditions.
I am willing to make a Altitude versus voltage chart that we could refer to when we suspect an out of range condition. One tenth of a volt could mean the difference of a thousand feet in elevation.
All I ask is that when are servicing your bike, take the time to measure the sensor. Here is how—-
Set meter on voltage. Positive to pink wire. Negative to Black/blue wire. Turn key on. Do not start.
Supply me with voltage reading. Your altitude/elevation. Year , model and engine.
Thanks a bunch guys. As soon as I receive enough feedback, I will post a chart

Here are my tests to this point.
Ok, I have the lean running 2014 which we will call “A”. The good running 2014 which we will call “B” and I threw in my 2013 which we will call “C”.

I first made sure all three batteries were fully charged so that all voltage tests would be consistent.

I tested the fuel pressure and volume with the following results.
A—46.0 psi B—45.8 psi C— 46.1 psi All three produced a volume of one pint in 30 seconds.
I tested the fuel injectors with an FI tester that pulsed each injector for 50ms. All three dropped the same amount of fuel pressure on the gauge.
The TPS displayed identical readings on all three. The Pod showed 17 at closed throttle and 99 at wide open throttle. This is in percentage of opening.
The voltages were .007 closed throttle and 4.0 wide open. I would recommend using voltage when adjusting the TPS as the pod update rate is slow.

The best way to test the temperature sensors (Intake air and coolant) is after the engine has cooled down completely. Preferably overnight.
All of the sensors tested at 2.6 volts. Using The SAE chart that translates to 77 degrees Fahrenheit which is exactly what the temperature gauge on the wall of my garage displayed. If one sensor deviates from ambient temperature, you will know that it is out of range.

I tested the Intake air Pressure sensor with the key on engine off. I had the following results.
“A”—3.4 to 3.6 volts “ B”—3.6 volts “C”—3.6 volts
The values received with key on an engine off tell the ECM the altitude where it is being operated. (Baro information). It is obvious that we have a problem here because of the varying voltage on “A”. I am accustomed to seeing 4.7 to 4.8 at my altitude of 150 ft above sea level. See below. The change in voltage on “A” is most likely telling the ECM that it is at a much higher altitude.

The 3.6 volts must be correct however, I don’t have anything to give me their operational strategy. I am going to do more research and testing on this circuit. I will get back with the results.
Does anyone have an old air pressure sensor that I could take apart and check the circuitry?

Here are my tests to this point.
Ok, I have the lean running 2014 which we will call “A”. The good running 2014 which we will call “B” and I threw in my 2013 which we will call “C”.

I first made sure all three batteries were fully charged so that all voltage tests would be consistent.

I tested the fuel pressure and volume with the following results.
A—46.0 psi B—45.8 psi C— 46.1 psi All three produced a volume of one pint in 30 seconds.
I tested the fuel injectors with an FI tester that pulsed each injector for 50ms. All three dropped the same amount of fuel pressure on the gauge.
The TPS displayed identical readings on all three. The Pod showed 17 at closed throttle and 99 at wide open throttle. This is in percentage of opening.
The voltages were .007 closed throttle and 4.0 wide open. I would recommend using voltage when adjusting the TPS as the pod update rate is slow.

The best way to test the temperature sensors (Intake air and coolant) is after the engine has cooled down completely. Preferably overnight.
All of the sensors tested at 2.6 volts. Using The SAE chart that translates to 77 degrees Fahrenheit which is exactly what the temperature gauge on the wall of my garage displayed. If one sensor deviates from ambient temperature, you will know that it is out of range.

I tested the Intake air Pressure sensor with the key on engine off. I had the following results.
“A”—3.4 to 3.6 volts “ B”—3.6 volts “C”—3.6 volts
The values received with key on an engine off tell the ECM the altitude where it is being operated. (Baro information). It is obvious that we have a problem here because of the varying voltage on “A”. I am accustomed to seeing 4.7 to 4.8 at my altitude of 150 ft above sea level. See below. The change in voltage on “A” is most likely telling the ECM that it is at a much higher altitude.

The 3.6 volts must be correct however, I don’t have anything to give me their operational strategy. I am going to do more research and testing on this circuit. I will get back with the results.
Does anyone have an old air pressure sensor that I could take apart and check the circuitry?

Here are my tests to this point.
Ok, I have the lean running 2014 which we will call “A”. The good running 2014 which we will call “B” and I threw in my 2013 which we will call “C”.

I first made sure all three batteries were fully charged so that all voltage tests would be consistent.

I tested the fuel pressure and volume with the following results.
A—46.0 psi B—45.8 psi C— 46.1 psi All three produced a volume of one pint in 30 seconds.
I tested the fuel injectors with an FI tester that pulsed each injector for 50ms. All three dropped the same amount of fuel pressure on the gauge.
The TPS displayed identical readings on all three. The Pod showed 17 at closed throttle and 99 at wide open throttle. This is in percentage of opening.
The voltages were .007 closed throttle and 4.0 wide open. I would recommend using voltage when adjusting the TPS as the pod update rate is slow.

The best way to test the temperature sensors (Intake air and coolant) is after the engine has cooled down completely. Preferably overnight.
All of the sensors tested at 2.6 volts. Using The SAE chart that translates to 77 degrees Fahrenheit which is exactly what the temperature gauge on the wall of my garage displayed. If one sensor deviates from ambient temperature, you will know that it is out of range.

I tested the Intake air Pressure sensor with the key on engine off. I had the following results.
“A”—3.4 to 3.6 volts “ B”—3.6 volts “C”—3.6 volts
The values received with key on an engine off tell the ECM the altitude where it is being operated. (Baro information). It is obvious that we have a problem here because of the varying voltage on “A”. I am accustomed to seeing 4.7 to 4.8 at my altitude of 150 ft above sea level. See below. The change in voltage on “A” is most likely telling the ECM that it is at a much higher altitude.

The 3.6 volts must be correct however, I don’t have anything to give me their operational strategy. I am going to do more research and testing on this circuit. I will get back with the results.
Does anyone have an old air pressure sensor that I could take apart and check the circuitry?

What is the all around best option to change a stock 2012 Grizzly 700EPS to get more acceleration and power to the ground? I would like to maybe get it to do a wheelie without standing on the rear rack. Thanks!:banana:

What is the all around best option to change a stock 2012 Grizzly 700EPS to get more acceleration and power to the ground? I would like to maybe get it to do a wheelie without standing on the rear rack. Thanks!:banana:

Hey everyone im thinking of adding a turbo on my grizzly 550 i found a nice small 1 on amazon from cx racing for a vw bug its a t15 .35 a/r with a 13 psi wastegate built in, I’m still looking at a bov for it. Just wanted to know if i should get bigger injectors or not anyone know if i should? And will the ecu be all messed up from taking the air box out and putting the pipe pipe from the turbo straight to the throttle body? Any suggestions and comments will be helpful aswell. Btw is there a way to make this setup good for mudding?

Hey everyone im thinking of adding a turbo on my grizzly 550 i found a nice small 1 on amazon from cx racing for a vw bug its a t15 .35 a/r with a 13 psi wastegate built in, I’m still looking at a bov for it. Just wanted to know if i should get bigger injectors or not anyone know if i should? And will the ecu be all messed up from taking the air box out and putting the pipe pipe from the turbo straight to the throttle body? Any suggestions and comments will be helpful aswell. Btw is there a way to make this setup good for mudding?

I posted a few months ago concerning two 2014 700’s in our riding group. One is running very lean. The other runs fine. The dealer said it was normal. That all the 2014’s are that way. They stated that if there was a problem, it would set a code. That is simply not true.
These have a basic FI system. A code will set only if an input signal is open or shorted. It will not set a code for an out of range sensor. If a code is set as the result of a failure other than an input, the ECM does have the ability to compensate. As an example,” A failure of the charging system resulting in low battery voltage”. The ECM will increase injector pulse to obtain the same pulse width.
I will have both machines for the weekend to test and compare inputs, outputs, fuel pressures and volume. Maybe I will get lucky and come up with some answers.
I will post a full report on Monday.

I have a 2014 Grizzly 350 2wd and if I full throttle it for about a mile or so the oil light will come on I live in south alabama.I know it is a air cooled engine. A buddy of mine has honda 350 air cooled but his 350 doesn’t heat up like my grizzly. I want to know what can I do like adding another fan to pull more air through the cooler or add another cooler. Has anybody else had this problem ?