I just put a set of front brakes on the 01 Grizzly 600. Picked a set (all 4) from Advance believe it or not. Bad news. They didn’t last a month. I will be the first to say that it was under severe conditions. The way the rims on this one are made (solid dish) it is hard to get all the mud out of the caliper. What I wanted to know is which type of pads are the longest lasting in the mud. I root this one a lot. I have heard both good and bad about the kevlar and I am leaning toward a sintered bronze compound but have not made up my mind. Just figured I would see what you all have found works the best.

Hi. My first post. need help on 99 kodiak 400, no spark. I belive that the problem is in the stator/ pick up. dose any one the the right ohm spec. for the 4 pin connector. thanks

I bought a new 450 Grizzly less than a year ago. We rode it for about 7 months with no issues. One day on a local ride it started smoking. We checked the oil and sure enough it was milky. It had never been sunk or anything like that but we do go through a lot of mud and water. They would not cover it under warranty. I paid to have it professionally rebuilt. The first time we took it back out ( Mudapalooza in Louisiana this May) 30 minutes into the ride it had water in the oil. We had been through water but nothing crazy and every other bike was fine including the 400 Kodiak which is much shorter. I took it back and he redid everything and checked it out. Well this weekend we went back out for the first time and after going through the 2nd hole I made my son stop and check the oil and sure enough, water in the oil. What do we do? The oil is fine riding on dry trails. There is no water in the oil until we go through water.

my switch for my winch sometimes doesn’t work, to let cable out works fine but to bring it in sometimes doesn’t work. i can hear clicking sounds at the solenoid. i leave it with key off for awhile&then it works. do i need new solenoid or new switch??? any help, thanks.2009 700 grizz.

Ok so I have a 02 grizzly 660 it immediately starts pouring coolant out when I try to fill the radiator. It comes out of the overflow on the water pump not the weep hole. This is if the quad is running otlr not. If I plug it it will come out of the overflow by the thermostat housing. Has new water pump and just rebuilt the top end. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone, Yamagrizzly14 here with a new up to date brake pad replacement guide for your front and rear brakes on your grizzly. I am making this guide for all the people that may have or haven’t ever changed their brake pads before, that would like a little more detailed information than the current thread on grizzly central currently has to offer. Also doing so I hope my guide will help some people save some money in the long run by not having to take it to a shop to get them replaced. We are all about saving some of our hard earned money to put to other mods or parts for our grizzly’s or our toys. So without any further ado lets start this guide off.

First of all you will need:

• Front & rear brake pads (will provide a link to the pads i bought)
• Floor Jack
• Jack Stands (x2)
• 3/16 Allen wrench or t handle
• 12 mm long socket (if needed with extensions)
• 8 mm stubby open/closed wrench
• Straight pick
• 4 inch C-clamp
• 11/16 socket (for wheel lugs)
• Wheel chocks (x2)
• Impact Wrench & Air compressor
• Flathead screwdriver

Free Shipping Yamaha 660 Grizzly Brake Pads – Race Driven

First off you will need to jack your grizzly up off the ground with your floor jack and sit it down on your jack stands. I’m going to start with the rear brakes as this change would be the more difficult. Get the hardest portion done first.

Don’t forget to chock the wheels and have grizzly in park!!!

You will need to take the back right wheel off
(if looking at it from the front of the grizzly)
or
you will need to take off the back left wheel
(if looking at it from the rear of the grizzly)

After you have the wheel off you will need to find and locate the caliper for the drive train.

You will need to remove the bleeder caps to help aid you in your next process. Once they are removed you will need to release the pressure of the pistons against the caliper. Use your flat head screwdriver and push against the pads to release the pressure of the pistons.

Next your going to want to take off the 3/16 Allan nut that sits on top of the 3/16 Allen brake pad pin. DO NOT TRY TO HAMMER THE PIN OUT OF PLACE AS IT COULD CAUSE PROBLEMS IN THE FUTURE!!!!!!!!

You don’t have to do this next part but I found it quicker to do after trying to fight around everything and fighting it for about 20 minutes but I removed the caliper from the drive train which made the process a lot easier and gives you a lot more room to work with and in.

Once the caliper is off you can access and remove the 3/16 Allan nut and 3/16 Allan brake pin.

If the pin is stuck a little use a little WD-40 and a straight pick that will fit inside the hole of the pin to push the pin out the rest of the way.

Then the pads should fall out and it might be a good idea to clean the metal & plastic clips that you put against the pads with a little carb cleaner and a clean shop rag.

MAKE SURE YOU USE THE OLD PADS AND A 4 INCH C-CLAMP TO HELP AID YOU IN PUSHING THE PISTONS BACK FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE NEW PADS TO SLIDE OVER THE DRIVE TRAIN ROTOR!!!!!!!!!

When your putting the new pads in, I found it easier to put the pad that sits closer to the front of the bike in first and slide the pin in just to hold it in place, then make sure you don’t loss the metal plate that sits behind the pin, then slide the pin in front of said metal plate to hold it in and then place the pad that would sit closest to the back of the grizzly in next and push the pin in until you can start to screw the 3/16 Allan pin into place and then top off the pin with the 3/16 Allan nut and reattach the caliper over the drive train rotor and attach to the grizzly.

Then bleed the lines to get any air that may have gotten into the system out and pump the brakes until the handles are stiff.

Replace the wheel onto the grizzly and lower the rear end back onto the ground.

REARBRAKEPADSCOMPLETE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Onto the front pads.

Do the same as before by jacking the grizzly’s front end up and putting your wheel chocks and jack stands in place then removing both wheels off the grizzly.

Which ever side you decided to start with turn the handle bars away from you to give you more room to work with.

Now locate the caliper on the rotor and remove the two 12 mm bolts holding the caliper onto the rotor.

Once the caliper is free from the grizzly, next locate the bleeder cap and remove it and the two 3/16 Allan brake pins.

You might need to use the straight pick again to help push the pins out of place but once they are out the pads will fall out but use both the pads to help you push the pistons back far enough put the new pads in and to slide over the rotor. If needed clean the metal and plastic plates that sit on top of the pads with a little carb cleaner and a clean shop rag.

Once the new pads are in place with the 3/16 Allan pins and reattached to rotor and grizzly, makes sure to put the bleeder caps back on and bleed the lines of any air that might have gotten into the lines and repeat the same process for the other front wheel.

Then put the wheels back on and lower it to the ground and there you have it folks a complete brake pad replacement for your 02 – 08 Yamaha Grizzly 660!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FRONTBRAKEPADSCOMPLETE!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hope this guide will help so many others here on Grizzly Central and guests of the site, be able to do there own brakes for the grizzly’s and save a few bucks in the process.

Hope everyone found the guide informational and helpful and hope that this gets a sticky to the site for easier reference and look up.

Thanks again for everything and enjoy.

I found these instructions with a google search. Does it look accurate to you guys? I was looking at the other pod mod settings thread and wondered what it was all about.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Press and hold "Select" & "Reset"
2. While holding them down turn the igntion switch on.
3. Within about 5 seconds "d IAG" will display on your instrument panel.
4. Let go of the "Select" & "Reset" buttons.
5. Press "Select" which will then result in "Co" being displayed on the screen.
6. Release the "Reset" button.
7. Press and hold "Select" & "Reset" again to get the "C1" to display.
8. Now release them again.
8. Press and hold "Select" & "Reset" again and a large 0 will be displayed as well.
5. Press "Select" to raise the number and press "Reset" to lower the number. The highest value is 126.
6. Turn the key off to set the setting and start riding.

Findings:

• On some bikes, getting into this setting is not possible. We’ve found some SE Grizzlys can’t get into it and many 08 Grizzlys can’t get into it. All you can do is try.
• We can in no way advise you what setting to try for YOUR bike as every bike is different and different modifications that you may have done are a different scenario.
• Raising the value too much could cause you to start fouling plugs so change it in small incremements, maybe 15-30 digits at a time and do some test runs.
• Some bikes don’t notice a performance increase by doing this at all.
• The performance increase you can expect from this will be minimal at best.
• Some bikes do just as well set on the factory settings of 0 as other that may require being on 70, or even higher.You’re the only one that knows what’s best for YOUR particular bike and your setup.
• Many bikes that experience an idle or low-speed stall can be fixed be raising the pod setting.
• If you’ve gutted your airbox and/or added the 2r racing tip off of eBay, increasing this value could help your performance b/c after doing these thigns, the bike most likely needs a little more fuel to run right.

My exhaust Heat shield was rattling pretty bad. So I took it off and used the titanium wrap. I don’t really think it’s working very well. Seems it’s getting hotter. So I’ve decided to slap the factory heat shield over top the wrap. Think this will cause any issues??

My exhaust Heat shield was rattling pretty bad. So I took it off and used the titanium wrap. I don’t really think it’s working very well. Seems it’s getting hotter. So I’ve decided to slap the factory heat shield over top the wrap. Think this will cause any issues??

How much coolant does it take to flush system . Going to eng ice and not sure how much to order any special way to flush the system????