I have a 1998 Grizzly 600. We are getting freezing weather and the last few days since it has gotten pretty cold (below freezing), the Grizzly will not shift into gear until after I have run the machine for 15-20 minutes, then it will only shift into high (not into low or reverse). Once it has run a bit in high, then it will shift into reverse, but not low. After it has run for quite a while, it will shift into low.
It is like something is freezing up in there. Could it be low oil? I just read how to check the oil and will check it this weekend. We had the Grizzly gone through by a mechanic to fix any issues within the last year.
What could be causing the transmission to freeze up?
Thank you,
Debi R.
I have a 1998 Grizzly 600. We are getting freezing weather and the last few days since it has gotten pretty cold (below freezing), the Grizzly will not shift into gear until after I have run the machine for 15-20 minutes, then it will only shift into high (not into low or reverse). Once it has run a bit in high, then it will shift into reverse, but not low. After it has run for quite a while, it will shift into low.
It is like something is freezing up in there. Could it be low oil? I just read how to check the oil and will check it this weekend. We had the Grizzly gone through by a mechanic to fix any issues within the last year.
What could be causing the transmission to freeze up?
Thank you,
Debi R.
Ok guys go this 4 wheeler in a trade, owner said it died in a mud hole.
Symptoms:
No start
compression comes out of crankcase vent
does not hit at all, Maybe a little bit of fire if I choke it
troubleshooting done:
carb cleaned, all jets removed… its 100%
Have spark
verified rotor is at tdc when piston is
adjusted valves
what ive found:
Cam sprocket is 1 tooth advanced
piston seems to have some dirt and grime on top of it
intake does not have any vacuum when the motor is spun over
80% of compression comes out of crank case vent
so should i set the motor back in time or maybe the previous owner advanced a tooth for more power?
I may need to just pull the top end and make sure everything is good… IDK any thoughst?
Ok guys go this 4 wheeler in a trade, owner said it died in a mud hole.
Symptoms:
No start
compression comes out of crankcase vent
does not hit at all, Maybe a little bit of fire if I choke it
troubleshooting done:
carb cleaned, all jets removed… its 100%
Have spark
verified rotor is at tdc when piston is
adjusted valves
what ive found:
Cam sprocket is 1 tooth advanced
piston seems to have some dirt and grime on top of it
intake does not have any vacuum when the motor is spun over
80% of compression comes out of crank case vent
so should i set the motor back in time or maybe the previous owner advanced a tooth for more power?
I may need to just pull the top end and make sure everything is good… IDK any thoughst?
Long story short, put a new top end on the motor along with new timing chain. Heat cycled it to break it in. First ride our (night ride in mud), after running about 2 hours, temp light comes on, let it cool off, crank it up, temp light comes on…before the fan even comes on. Take it back to camp, crank it, check for air bubbles, check for water flow, check everything, finally check and see water pump isnt turning. Open case, water pump/oil pump chain is broke. All this time running the engine to troubleshoot and it hasnt been pumping any oil.
I get her back home, put new chain on, and everything runs great…for 3 minutes then I start hearing a knock, now its permanent.
Crank the bike, all is quiet, 3 mins in, knock comes back.
What am I in for here?????
I know people have been waiting patiently for this it is under way. Im still waiting on a after market exhaust to get here from barkers and some parts to make some modified ones. From initial testing almost a wash for hp in stock form vs a 14/15. For running lean though its even worse in stock trim unmodified anything its very lean anything below 1/4 throttle adding a little fuel picked up roughly 10% hp or 2-3 hp at wide open throttle.
The fuel addition is responding even better than 14/15 but the airbox is way better in stock trim, my modified lid we tested is marginally better HP wise nothing like it did on 14/15 this stock box just gets more air to it so the gains are not there.
Everyone is going to need a fuel controller though in 100% stock trim.
Im shooting a bunch of videos with my mug in there so you can be part of the process with me 🙂
slight gains taking tip out much better than airbox as well and running it really need extra fuel then so if you have no tip and no fuel controller put the tip back in until you get a tuner. I know it sounds like a scooter but its very lean
I have a question more out of curiosity than a problem. The last time I changed the oil I started with 2 quarts and added from there to get the oil lever to acceptable level. This time two quarts or maybe slightly less than two quarts just got it on the stick. I ran it for about ten minutes easy with the oil that low how sensitive are they to oil level? Would that scenario cause any damage. Thanks.
Time to change my coolant on the grizzly 450, service manual just says to basically remove coolant drain plug from cylinder and drain plug from water pump, and drain reservoir and thats it…
Question: Is there anything else i should do, like sucking the old coolant out or something to make sure i get ALL the old coolant out?
Also, when re-filling the system, is there anything i should to to bleed out all of the air in the system? Service manual says nothing, just says "Fill cooling system"
