My 2009 Grizzly 700 EPShas been acting up. It started after when ride when I left it idling while packing the gear up. From idle when you hit the idle it would fall on its face and die. It would run fine at higher rpm once you feathered it past idle ever so slowly. It was coming up for a service anyway so I changed the plug as I figured I fouled it (it looked fine), cleaned the k&n filter, checked valves (were fine) and oils.
It ran great for a few rides then started doing the say thing. Sputtering and bogging at idle but runs fine at high rpm. It seems the long you let it idle for the worse it got. It doesn’t like warming up idling. I figured maybe my map was too rich so I loaded a leaner one with no difference and when I again swapped the plug it looked like a nice burn.
I am not getting any engine fault codes or lights. A buddy did say that my hmf perforance series exhaust shot some strands out when it was really acting up on me. I am running the quiet core but with no spark arrestor. Would the exhaust clog up? I don’t doing extemporaneous mudding with it gut water crossings.
if I have my wheels cranked it doesn’t like the extra load to start from and will just bog.
Anyone have any ideas where to start? I love my grizzly and this makes me sad. I use it almost weekly so the gas isn’t green.
Okay guys. Bought a grizzly 600. Ran like shit but ran better with the choke on. Figured it was a fuel issue. I bought a new carb on eBay from Zoom Zoom parts. Put the carburetor on, and it ran better but still popped and coughed through the carb. So I decided to rejet it because I have an aftermarket exhaust. Put a dynojet kit in the carb and didn’t fix anything. In fact. Almost made it worse. The quad started backfiring through the carb, popping out the exhaust and ran really rough. Will cough at idle and sometimes will run decent when driving about, then randomly start popping and coughing through the carb and exhaust. So then I decided to go back to the original jet. And nothing changed. Still runs like crap and I’m getting really frustrated. Any suggestions to get this running right? At this point im getting ready to purchase a factory carb off of a grizzly being parted out nearby, totally rebuilding it, and installing the dynojet needle and jet on that carburetor. Is there any possibility this isn’t carb related? I’m lost here and open to any suggestions!
I recently purchased a new carb from ebay. I started the 99 Grizzly for a few minutes and the front exhaust pipe became red hot. I assume the ATV run too rich/lean.
Question, how do I adjust it?
I looked at several other post and didn’t see anything like the carb I have.
I recently purchased a new carb from ebay. I started the 99 Grizzly for a few minutes and the front exhaust pipe became red hot. I assume the ATV run too rich/lean.
Question, how do I adjust it?
I looked at several other post and didn’t see anything like the carb I have.
hey guys
I just did my slug kit and hunterworks sheave
not the first time I did one a year ago on my old grizz
but now something a muck!
when in my back yard I tried it out but now it seems to stay in gear when I put in gear it leaps forward and dies tried both reverse and forward then when try to start in gear its like starting a standard in gear with clutch out
did I put the one way in backwards ?
I’m helping out a buddy that just got a grizzly 600. The wet clutch would slip real bad and took alot of rpm to get the wheels turning.
After taking the wet clutch out I found it was metal on metal so clutch shoes and drum thing is bad. 1 way bearing looks good and surfaces the bearing ride on look good.
Anyone have a good source for the drum and clutch pack or maybe just the clutch shoes? Thanks for any help.
This past fall my Grizz started to overheat. It would cool down if i went over 30mph. Yesterday I was plowing my driveway and it started to overheat again.
A few days before the snow fell, I took out the radiator and cleaned it out; it was caked with mud. I reinstalled it with fresh coolant. But she’s still overheating. The fan does work.
And thoughts as to what else i should be looking at? Waterpump maybe?
After watching every how to video and reading every possible thread on how to do it, I Finally installed 1.7mm of shims and purple spring. The home made sheave holder works perfectly and was very simple to make and use. I also used a large adjustable wrench and the stock rim spring compressor to remove and install new secondary spring. It all went perfectly smooth just like the videos. The starting ratio was 2.44:1 and after the mod the ratio was just over 2.6:1. Wow made a big difference in the terrain I have been riding on. Very slow rock crawling and extremely tight trails. I went on a 10 mile ride to make sure everything was working properly and it was. Much easier takeoffs and better creeping with stock tires. Never got a chance to check top speed. Next day the 26" Bearclaws went on. They did seem to suck up some of that low end torque but really made a huge difference rock crawling. They are huge compared to stock and are much better looking in person than in pics. Can’t wait to send out primary sheave for some machining!!!!!
I got a shock While doing the first service on my brothers Kodiak.when I pulled the air filter to clean it.you can clearly see lots of dust has gotten past the air filter
I think we found out why it had started smoking with Less than 20 hours.I believe the problem lies in the design.where the front of the filter has a foam seal but isn’t oiled from the factory and that is where all of the dust had come thru.still wondering if oiling the front foam ring seal will stop the problem as it seems kinda of a loose fit….so if you have a 2016 with the new air box might wanna check it over
