Ok folks, I need some help. I used my Griz to jump start my lawnmower at the deer lease and now my battery wont charge. I thought it was a bad battery so I had it tested and it checked good. I can recharge it and it will work fine for a few days and then it won’t start. The battery shows 10.4 volts when this happens. Sometimes the check engine light comes on but does not stay on constantly. Help…….

Ok folks, I need some help. I used my Griz to jump start my lawnmower at the deer lease and now my battery wont charge. I thought it was a bad battery so I had it tested and it checked good. I can recharge it and it will work fine for a few days and then it won’t start. The battery shows 10.4 volts when this happens. Sometimes the check engine light comes on but does not stay on constantly. Help…….

The bike idles great!!! But as soon as it gets out of level it dies… thoughts?

So I’ve worked out all the mechanical kinks. now I’m have fan issues. I took the bike four a 2 he ride today. and it was great climbed some rocks and such. I noticed my oil light came on. then I noticed the fan never came on. I checked all the connection s and every thing is connected. now where do I start? Oh and I straight wired the fan and it works

Ok, so I turned the Griz upside down the other day, but kept it from rolling all the way over. It rolled to the right 180 degrees and I stopped it. My buddy and I rolled it back over and it was still in Low, so I went to shift it into Neutral so I could fire it back up and the shifter was locked in Low. We rocked it back and forth a lot and eventually I was able to man handle it out of Low and get it started back up. Now the shifter doesn’t seem to line up quite right with the notches and it’s hard to shift. It was buttery smooth before the roll. Any idea why it was stuck in L to begin with and is that maybe an indication of what is wrong?

Ok, so I turned the Griz upside down the other day, but kept it from rolling all the way over. It rolled to the right 180 degrees and I stopped it. My buddy and I rolled it back over and it was still in Low, so I went to shift it into Neutral so I could fire it back up and the shifter was locked in Low. We rocked it back and forth a lot and eventually I was able to man handle it out of Low and get it started back up. Now the shifter doesn’t seem to line up quite right with the notches and it’s hard to shift. It was buttery smooth before the roll. Any idea why it was stuck in L to begin with and is that maybe an indication of what is wrong?

I’m sorry if this has been asked and answered many times, my Google-fu is weak tonight.

I would like to get a little more out of my 2007 Grizzly 700. I’m mostly happy with the performance. When I goose it, I do need to hold on tight. But I’d like it to be a little more of a rip-snorting beast. I weigh 220 lbs and use stock tire sizes on it. I might one day go to 26x9x12 tires, but no larger than that. I use all-around tires like BigHorns, not aggressive mudders or super heavy tires.

What can I do that does not cost a ton of money or make hardcore changes to the system? Something that won’t make it start burning up belts or wear out the engine prematurely? Something that does not take a bunch of fiddling and testing and re-adjusting to work?

In short, a lazy, cheap performance mod?

I was thinking maybe a clutch kit with lighter weights so that it kicks in at a higher RPM, but I did a little searching on that and it started to sound expensive and/or complicated. I’ve swapped out the roller weights in the variator of my Honda scooters, and that was a pretty simple and cheap mod and I was pleased with what I got. But when it got more complicated involving the clutch behind the driven pulley, and different stiffnesses of the springs, that got to be too much and I gave up.

The decompression valve was the issue. the pin on the cam was not opening because I had the fly weights 180. degrees out

I recently bought a 07 700 grizzly with 3200km. I performed a full service and noticed the valves were loud and when I went to adjust them I noticed the left intake valve tappet was scratching the feeler gauge. On further inspection I found that the tappet was worn round, the edges were a bit chipped, and the valve was also pitted from the tappet. My question is do I replace the tappet and hope for the best, keep the same tappet and just jimmy the clearance, or take the head off and replace the valve and tappet? I really don’t want to be rebuilding the head, I bought a grizzly because I didn’t want to fix anything as I have two other major projects right now. Your help is greatly appreciated.

has anyone replaced the shift forks before? is it something that a person with mechanical sense can do? is there a video out there? any help will be appreciated..