Just riding along nothing wild and it started missing, backfired and acted like I was in reverse and the rev limited kicked in? Lasted less than a min then ran fine. It’s done this three or four times in the past. Any ideas?

I just filled up my front diff with fluid. I was riding and noticed diff oil was slung under the front end and exhaust. I recently pulled my front right axle and replaced it back. Is there any natural leakage or do I just have a bad seal?

2007 700 grizzly 1400miles total.. we were riding the other day mud water 95* day everything ok then went to drive home & temp started to go up gauge said 207* & no fan then 221* no fan so i shut it off climbed to 227* with motor off. got a d61 21 code so i got home washed rad out (not bad) pulled the wires off the temp sensor on the head & ran a jumper in the wireing harness side & turned key on still no fan. unpluged fan harness by front fender& jumped to 12v battery & fan works. so i started to ck the fan relay up front it has 12v in & 12v out of the relay when i jump the sensor but i DONT have 12v coming out of the fan wire from the wireing harness also when i start it it idles normal for a few minutes then it will stall for no reason when it gets close to 190* it will not take the throttle & backfires stalls & wont restart till it cools off. not sure where the fan circuite breaker is under back seat it says?? could the ECU be bad causing this? also how do i clear the code 21 i can get to the diag screen & scroll thru all the d numbers but thats it cant figure how to clear code thanks for any help i dont want to go to the dealer

Hey guys, I have a 2014 grizzly 450 eps, and naturally I love it. After putting some 26×9.5×12 and 26x12x12 TSL vampires on my machine I’ve noticed a drop in my bottom end power. I’ve been surfing the forums trying to figure out how to bring out more power in my machine and I was hoping you guys would be able to point me in the right direction. Here’s what I turned up so far.

Uni air filter – on order(k&n breathes TOO well and doesn’t offer as much protection)

Shim mod: I’ve found forums for the 450 saying 1.5mm is too much and that you can only fit 1mm in…opinions? Also, where do I buy the shims?

Secondary spring/weights: I want to do the shim first to see if this needs to be done as well, but where do I buy these items and how do I know which spring to use? The different colors do different things, and I haven’t found a post talking outlining what makes the different colors different.

Carb jetting: I see people talk about this frequently, is this just resetting the carb needles or what?

Exhaust pipe: Naturally a first step in pulling out more power, which one do I need or what are the top three to pick from?

Any other mods to improve my bottom-mid range mud slinging torque that won’t set me back more than $500?

Hey guys, I have a 2014 grizzly 450 eps, and naturally I love it. After putting some 26×9.5×12 and 26x12x12 TSL vampires on my machine I’ve noticed a drop in my bottom end power. I’ve been surfing the forums trying to figure out how to bring out more power in my machine and I was hoping you guys would be able to point me in the right direction. Here’s what I turned up so far.

Uni air filter – on order(k&n breathes TOO well and doesn’t offer as much protection)

Shim mod: I’ve found forums for the 450 saying 1.5mm is too much and that you can only fit 1mm in…opinions? Also, where do I buy the shims?

Secondary spring/weights: I want to do the shim first to see if this needs to be done as well, but where do I buy these items and how do I know which spring to use? The different colors do different things, and I haven’t found a post talking outlining what makes the different colors different.

Carb jetting: I see people talk about this frequently, is this just resetting the carb needles or what?

Exhaust pipe: Naturally a first step in pulling out more power, which one do I need or what are the top three to pick from?

Any other mods to improve my bottom-mid range mud slinging torque that won’t set me back more than $500?

I have a slow oil leak..I’m not sure if it’s coming from the crankcase or near where the water is..Anyone have this issue??

If so, what do you think or how can I fix it without breaking the block apart?

I have a slow oil leak..I’m not sure if it’s coming from the crankcase or near where the water is..Anyone have this issue??

If so, what do you think or how can I fix it without breaking the block apart?

so i just bought a non running 05 660 grizzly was told when i bought it that it just needed a timing chain. after a little research im a little worried about the valves and head. My question is whats the odds that its out of time and just needs a timing chain and has not bent a valve?

so i just bought a non running 05 660 grizzly was told when i bought it that it just needed a timing chain. after a little research im a little worried about the valves and head. My question is whats the odds that its out of time and just needs a timing chain and has not bent a valve?

I recently bought a 2012 grizzly 700 eps with 1000 miles on it. I haven’t put 2 miles on it when I started hearing noises from the front right wheel area. I jacked her up and the right wheel was hard to turn, the left wheel turns fine. I thought it was the wheel bearing, and took apart the hub and related parts. The wheel bearings are fine. I tried to turn the front right axle by hand but it’s hard to turn. And I can feel a grinding vibration. The axle flopped down to the floor, not good. I tried to pull out the entire axle assembly as one unit but it would not budge. I cut the band around the boot closest to the differential. The axle came right out but the double offset joint (I think that’s the parts name) will not come out of the differential. The bearings I could see appear ok and had grease. The DOJ is hard to turn by hand. See pics.

I would appreciate any help or advice. I think the diff may have a bad internal bearing? How does the DOJ come out of the diff? Am I going to have to pull out this entire diff and rebuilt it or could it be something I overlooked? I have the shop manual but it doesn’t have a lot of detail on this. How could the diff go bad when the machine has 1000 miles on it?

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