Please post your tire size, secondary spring, weights, any other clutch specs, and your top speed.
Seems there is little info on clutching for the 2016s. Previous 700’s came with 20g weights from the factory. The 2016 is geared lower and comes with 18g weights.
I will be running stock size tires and a JBS sheave. I just don’t know which weights and secondary spring I should choose.
Hey guys just curious if getting a modded sheave for a 700 kodiack with 25 inch bear claws would be worth it in the future. The majority of people obviously due this to get a lower ratio to start of some big tires would this still be a worth while investment/mod for my tires witch are of course heavier that stockers but only marginally taller than stock to get a little more pop of the line and not have to use low as much. thanks
Just recently a Yamaha Grizzly 700cc, 2016) and would like to know what is the 10W-40 Motul synthetic motor oil I should purchase? The brake in period is done and I am due for an oil change…
There are many types and it’s a little confusing. I see in the Motul synthetic oils there are: Motul 5100 Ester 4T ATV Oil, Motul Power Quad 4T, Motul 7100, 5100, 300V, E-Tech 100 etc…. Lots, but no idea which one I should purchase… Are they all good for my ATV??
Usually I go with the best and appreciate if you can name a couple I should look at. I would like to buy only Motul and should be 100% synthetic… I see there is oil named Techno synthetic instead of Synthetic… Lots of confusion..
I pulled my sons Grizzly 600 down to rebuild the wet clutch. Blocks are on backorder so I am going all the way down with the motor while we wait. She smokes alot and that is the reason the clutch went bad. She burnt oil pretty quick and my son didn’t know about wet clutch compatible oil. Put it short, Wal-Mart oil will fry your wet-clutch. Any-way, I know I am going to end up with a piston and rings as well as a chain. Not sure till I get it down if I need a jug but I want to know what you guys have had the best results with as far as brands on these parts. E-Bay is full of them but if I can find a company up here somewhat comparable in price I would deal straight with them. Last thing I want to do is put some cheap parts in this thing. I am not going to go huge with the bore. I just got this carb to behave and am not looking to go messing with jets again now. I would like to stay as close to stock as possible but I have no doubt my son is going to give her hell. He is my son. I am asking these questions not because I haven’t ever done this before. I have been a auto mechanic for 30 years just never really dealt with bikes and ATV engines. So what brands and companies would you all go with.
So not long ago I had the whole bottom end rebuilt on the Grizzly 700. That includeds new belt, one way bearing, drum, wet clutch assembly, shims and slug kit. Finally got some other bugs worked out and such and was able to ride it for a while this past weekend. I noticed a slight roar or rattle type noise coming from the clutch somewhere. It seems intermittent, but may just be drowned out but motor noise at higher rpm. It also seems to only happen on accel and decel, which kind of makes me think maybe it is the weights, or maybe slugs? It seems to run good and no slipping or twitchy feeling to it. I have serviced the clutch and it appears fine, with the exception of some very slight flat spotting on the weight covers. I never noticed the sound before the engine rebuild, but never had slugs in it either. does anyone have an idea of what it possibly is? Am I on track with weight noise or slugs? They are stock greased weights.
Thanks.
can anyone suggest what the grinding noise could be on my grizz 660 2006 when back brake is applied.
its coming from cvt/transmission area, the harder the brake is applied the more she will grind.
I have a 2013 550 that I use to plow snow in the winter. Hasn’t snowed in a bit so I took the machine for a few runs up and down the driveway and it sounded like the engine was working harder than normal…almost like the brakes were sticking a bit. I plan to jack the unit up on blocks and spin the wheels to make sure none of the calipers have seized. I’ve never done this before so I’m looking for advice on the best way to test this. Should I have the unit in neutral? It could be nothing but I’d feel better knowing that I checked. Thanks in advance for your time and advice.
I have a 2013 550 that I use to plow snow in the winter. Hasn’t snowed in a bit so I took the machine for a few runs up and down the driveway and it sounded like the engine was working harder than normal…almost like the brakes were sticking a bit. I plan to jack the unit up on blocks and spin the wheels to make sure none of the calipers have seized. I’ve never done this before so I’m looking for advice on the best way to test this. Should I have the unit in neutral? It could be nothing but I’d feel better knowing that I checked. Thanks in advance for your time and advice.
The last few times I’ve been out riding this has happened. After riding for a while (at least an hour) my Grizzly will start shutting off but not completely die. Here’s what I mean. I can take off from a start and hold full throttle and it runs fine until I let off. Then it will die. It’s like you hit the kill switch or turned the key off. It will coast down to less then 5mph then it just comes back on. Runs and idles fine. If you drive slow with low RPMs, it does OK. The more gas you give it the quicker it shuts down. It was 17 degrees F yesterday while this was going on but also did it one night it was around 60.
My gas gauge has 3 out of 4 bars still so I know it’s got gas. Now, whether or not its got a block in it I don’t know.
I’m also assuming that it isn’t boiling gas as I was freezing my butt off!
I assume it wouldn’t be the battery or running low on juice. I still haven’t replaced the original stator (mines an ’07) but I would think this would make it have problems all the time instead of just hard throttle and wear the battery down.
I read a thread on here that someone had a similar issue and the TPS sensor was mentioned. But all said that the problem was at idle and that once it got going, it was fine. Mines the opposite!
Plug looks fine but I’m going to replace that just to eliminate that as the issue/cause.
