i dug into my wet clutch to look it over for damage but this is a first for me. can you guys tell me if these pictures look normal? how much life do i have left in my blocks? the bike only has 800 miles but it has hauled around some heavy weight on some rough terrain
I need some expert advice and opinions. I just purchased a 2015 700 grizzly eps fi. I have 4 hours on it right now. I also have an 06 660 grizzly. My issue is while riding in New Mexico last week the new grizzly has almost no power when climbing the smallest trails. I’m being gentle while I finish the break in but unless I’m in low and really don’t get in a hurry I’ve been disappointed so far. I had a rhino and kodiak with way more take off. As soon as the break in is done I’ll need to make some modification.
What should be the first thing I look at?
I searched the forums and didn’t see a solution on this one, this noise happens when ever I brake hard and the engine brake should kick in it makes a grinding noise.. I can also make the noise occur whenever I give the ATV gas and just turn it off… I got a video on youtube of the noise but I cant post the link.
I searched the forums and didn’t see a solution on this one, this noise happens when ever I brake hard and the engine brake should kick in it makes a grinding noise.. I can also make the noise occur whenever I give the ATV gas and just turn it off… I got a video on youtube of the noise but I cant post the link.
I’m in the middle of adding 1.5mm shim as I type. I have splines sticking out but was wondering about the washer on the primary sheave. It doesn’t sit on the splines like before. Do I need the washer or not?
I’m in the middle of adding 1.5mm shim as I type. I have splines sticking out but was wondering about the washer on the primary sheave. It doesn’t sit on the splines like before. Do I need the washer or not?
Been noticing that the grizz doesn’t have too much top end punch. I’ve been messing with the settings on the controller, and drilled holes in the air box, but hasn’t done much. It has 27s that measure maybe 26", but shouldn’t notice that much of a power loss. I haven’t put the shim or spring in yet, but not sure that will make a difference either…..specs are in sig.
Been noticing that the grizz doesn’t have too much top end punch. I’ve been messing with the settings on the controller, and drilled holes in the air box, but hasn’t done much. It has 27s that measure maybe 26", but shouldn’t notice that much of a power loss. I haven’t put the shim or spring in yet, but not sure that will make a difference either…..specs are in sig.
So i’ve fixed my electrical issues and now moving onto the carb,
i have cleaned it up – it did have a rebuild kit put in it about 300 kms ago.
Right now it doesn’t want to start and i do get good spark.
It does sort of try to start for like anywhere from 1 -3 seconds, but just can’t get it even to an idle yet.
I have heard a few ppl talk about the idle screw thingy that sits at the bottom of the carb….i’ve read anywhere from 2.5 to 3.5 turns out……does this mean screw it in all the way so that it sticks out into the air intake and then turn it back out?
The other thing i’ve heard is that you can try to adjust the main needle jet position, there are 5 little slots and right now it’s in the middle slot, so i’ve read that if you move it in one direction or the other that it could improve things, is this true??
There was a thread that someone had posted on how to put in a carb rebuild kit…but i couldn’t find it, can anyone help me find it.
Sorry for the long post, any help would be great, I WANNA GET THIS OLD GIRL UP AND BACK TO WORKING IN THE YARD!!!!!!!
