We have an 09 550 Grizzly in the family, it has over 7,500 miles, still on the original belt and nothing has be done to the primary and secondary clutches. When and what should be done for service? As far as we can tell, it still shifts like it did when it was new.
So i was thinking about taking the airbox right off my quad because i cant get it sealed right. I had dual 1.5 in spa hose for the snorkel and so i dont have to cut more holes id like to keep it that way by… 1.5 to 2" connecter off carb. two 90′ 2"pvc that hooks to a splitter where ill hook my spa hose but then for the top is where im concerned. I ordered two smaller airfilters off ebay (like a k&n) and i was going to put then on both the in take snorkels then put a gaurd or pre filter on them. Will this be a good setup?
mabey this will give other grizzly 350 riders an idea.
Hi, a few months ago I bought a 2005 Grizzly 660 with 3200 km. I noticed a clicking sound when decelerating but everything was working good. Last ride we went down a big hill and then stopped at the bottom and shut it off for a bit. When I started it again the clutch won’t release. To get it moving I had to give it some throttle while in neutral and then jam it into high. If you come to a stop it stalls. When I got it home I pulled the cover and checked the primary and secondary clutches. Both seem to be fine. I did some research and came to the conclusion that it must be the one way bearing. I ordered one and attempted to change it today. Unfortunately, I can’t t get the cover off to get in there. I got as far as is shown in the picture but can’t get any further. How can I get this off? Attachment 20686
I’m looking for ideas to replace my fuel tank’s roll-over vent valve with something different. I know some guys replace it with a fuel filter, some may use just a vented plug on the end of the tubing. Before I get rid of it I was wondering what some others have replaced it with that works well? Any pictures or web-links to what you used would be appreciated.
I’ve replaced my OEM Roll-over vent valve once already and the second OEM one still builds up pressure in the tank, so I’m ready to get rid of it once and for all.
On my 2007, 4 years ago, it was covered under a Yamaha recall and was replaced free, but on the 2008 when the dealer ran the serial number he said it was not covered.
I purchased a 450 a couple months ago and after 2 hours of trail riding with stronger machines I wanted more! I figured a clutch mod was the way to go.
The clutch mod (machined sheave and orange secondary spring) took some time and after two months it was finished but I had forgotten what it was like without the mod. The top speed stayed the same and maybe it pulled a little better on the trail.
The problem that I have now is that it requires a lot of rpms to get moving from a stand still and I’m not able to move in reverse when I hook up a trailer (due to rev limiter)
I never tried this before doing the clutch mod and would like to hear from fellow 450 drivers
I was cleaning up my 2002 Kodiak 400 the other day and had it running when suddenly it started to leak coolant. I can see where the leak on the from of the engine1 but no idea what it is. Freeze plug, something missing??? Can anybody tell me what this is? Any help would be appreciated!
I was cleaning up my 2002 Kodiak 400 the other day and had it running when suddenly it started to leak coolant. I can see where the leak on the from of the engine1 but no idea what it is. Freeze plug, something missing??? Can anybody tell me what this is? Any help would be appreciated!
I have an 04 660, trans has been giving me grief (high gear jumps out) so I decided to change the transmission.
While apart I decided to do some mods to engine and clutchs. I have shimmed primary 1.5 mm and added an orange EPI spring to the secondary. I want to go greaseless, recommendations on weights? 27 inch Mud Lights. I am also adding a HotCams Mudbuster cam, anybody ever try one? Recommend a higher compression piston?