In case anyone is interested O’Reily Auto Parts can get Prime Line ATV Parts. Per the Prime Line Outdoor Power Equipment Service Parts Catalog for ATV/UTV Parts they have listed the Inner & Outer CV Joint Boots for Grizzly 700s, 2007 thru 2014 and they carry a 1 year warranty. Prime Line is carrying a whole assortment of ATV/UTV parts, from brakes, regulators, starters, wheel bearings, gaskets, suspension parts, 3 types of tires (1 of which is a Big Horn tread pattern in a 6 ply radial), and more.
http://www.primelinepe.com/wp-conten…Res-8-7-15.pdf

For the 2007 thru 2014 Grizzly 700 the front and rear Inner CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1179 (shaft I.D. -17 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 59 mm; Length – 86 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

For the 2007 & 2008 Grizzly 700 the front and rear Outer CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1193 (shaft I.D. -17 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 62.5 mm; Length – 80 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

For the 2009 thru 2014 the front and rear Outer CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1186 (shaft I.D. -18 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 64 mm; Length – 97 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

Per the pictures on O’Reily’s computer screen the boots, bands, container of grease all look identical to the Yamaha OEM inner boot, bands, and grease I just bought at a Yamaha Dealer. Yamaha OEM #3B4-2510H-00-00.

I have ordered 1 of each (Inner & Outer Boots) from O’Reily’s to compare the actual Prime Line Boot to the Yamaha OEM Boot.

Prime Line also carries the CV Joint Boots for the Grizzly 550, 600, 660, & Viking UTV They also list the wheel bearings p/n 72-1048 for $24.99, may order 1 of these to compare to see if it is the Koyo bearing, unless someone else wants to be the guinea pig.

Will update as I get more information.

In case anyone is interested O’Reily Auto Parts can get Prime Line ATV Parts. Per the Prime Line Outdoor Power Equipment Service Parts Catalog for ATV/UTV Parts they have listed the Inner & Outer CV Joint Boots for Grizzly 700s, 2007 thru 2014 and they carry a 1 year warranty. Prime Line is carrying a whole assortment of ATV/UTV parts, from brakes, regulators, starters, wheel bearings, gaskets, suspension parts, 3 types of tires (1 of which is a Big Horn tread pattern in a 6 ply radial), and more.
http://www.primelinepe.com/wp-conten…Res-8-7-15.pdf

For the 2007 thru 2014 Grizzly 700 the front and rear Inner CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1179 (shaft I.D. -17 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 59 mm; Length – 86 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

For the 2007 & 2008 Grizzly 700 the front and rear Outer CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1193 (shaft I.D. -17 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 62.5 mm; Length – 80 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

For the 2009 thru 2014 the front and rear Outer CV Joint Boots are the same p/n 72-1186 (shaft I.D. -18 mm; CV Boot I.D. – 64 mm; Length – 97 mm) for $13.99 including boot, bands, & grease.

Per the pictures on O’Reily’s computer screen the boots, bands, container of grease all look identical to the Yamaha OEM inner boot, bands, and grease I just bought at a Yamaha Dealer. Yamaha OEM #3B4-2510H-00-00.

I have ordered 1 of each (Inner & Outer Boots) from O’Reily’s to compare the actual Prime Line Boot to the Yamaha OEM Boot.

Prime Line also carries the CV Joint Boots for the Grizzly 550, 600, 660, & Viking UTV They also list the wheel bearings p/n 72-1048 for $24.99, may order 1 of these to compare to see if it is the Koyo bearing, unless someone else wants to be the guinea pig.

Will update as I get more information.

Hey guys I’m brand new to the forum. I have a couple of issues with a 2002 Grizzly 660 that I’ve recently purchased. The first one is a new noise that I’ve just started hearing after a buddy replaced the rear bearings. I had them replaced because he thought it would fix the clicking sound that my Grizz makes on sharp turns in forward and reverse. New bearings did not remedy situation but did introduce another possible issue. Below is a link to a video. You can hear the noise I’m talking about pretty well. Any ideas on potential issue and fixes would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
David

** Just found forum requires 10 posts to embed a link to the video! Sorry- I’ll try to hit that mark and will post

Greetings!

2007 Grizzly 700, 4600 miles, 360 hours. Mostly ridden by my friend, but it’s half mine and is stored and maintained at my house.

Overheated last year on the Paiute ATV Trail, mud in the radiator. Overheated again later, mud in the radiator again. Both times, once we cleaned out the mud for the most part with a squirt bottle, it was fine afterward.

Yesterday, it overheated again at the top of a fairly long hill climb. But this time the radiator is pretty clean. I’d say maybe 5% blockage, in the upper part and center where it’s hard to spray with the grill in place.

As soon as it started to flash, he stopped, turned off the motor but left the ignition on so the fan kept running, and let it cool down for 5 minutes. It was fine after that, but we didn’t do any more hill climbs.

I just checked the coolant level and it was fine, but I discovered two things:
1. The coolant smells like burnt urine, and
2. There are metal shavings floating around in the coolant. A LOT of them. Very, very fine shavings.

I’m thinking the water pump is going bad and the coolant is long overdue for a flush. I have looked at a few threads here about it and we’ve ordered a rebuild kit, specifically this one:

Hot Rods Water Pump Rebuild Kit HotRods WPK0025

What do you guys think? Do you agree with my diagnosis? Should that kit do the job? Do you think I’ll need a new impeller/shaft, or are the metal shavings most likely from the seal, which is part of the kit?

Thanks for your time.

Greetings!

2007 Grizzly 700, 4600 miles, 360 hours. Mostly ridden by my friend, but it’s half mine and is stored and maintained at my house.

Overheated last year on the Paiute ATV Trail, mud in the radiator. Overheated again later, mud in the radiator again. Both times, once we cleaned out the mud for the most part with a squirt bottle, it was fine afterward.

Yesterday, it overheated again at the top of a fairly long hill climb. But this time the radiator is pretty clean. I’d say maybe 5% blockage, in the upper part and center where it’s hard to spray with the grill in place.

As soon as it started to flash, he stopped, turned off the motor but left the ignition on so the fan kept running, and let it cool down for 5 minutes. It was fine after that, but we didn’t do any more hill climbs.

I just checked the coolant level and it was fine, but I discovered two things:
1. The coolant smells like burnt urine, and
2. There are metal shavings floating around in the coolant. A LOT of them. Very, very fine shavings.

I’m thinking the water pump is going bad and the coolant is long overdue for a flush. I have looked at a few threads here about it and we’ve ordered a rebuild kit, specifically this one:

Hot Rods Water Pump Rebuild Kit HotRods WPK0025

What do you guys think? Do you agree with my diagnosis? Should that kit do the job? Do you think I’ll need a new impeller/shaft, or are the metal shavings most likely from the seal, which is part of the kit?

Thanks for your time.

Hi i just buy a grizzly 700 2008 6500km

My first ride the engine stop light eps go on i restart the engine no probleme the light eps go off and after 10 min it stop again .3 time in 1h what wrong eps or engine?every time i restart the engine the eps light go off.and everything work well

Thanks

New here.. I have a clunking noise coming from right rear wheel. When I’m turning out decelerating it happens the most I installed a new axle and bearing. I bought the machine used and it had a broken axle so I thought no big deal.. Wrong!.:evil: Anyway I pulled the plug on the diff nice and clean no metal or water.. What do you guys think I’m hoping it’s not the diff but maybe a scarred rebuilt cv joint. Thanks Rob

New here.. I have a clunking noise coming from right rear wheel. When I’m turning out decelerating it happens the most I installed a new axle and bearing. I bought the machine used and it had a broken axle so I thought no big deal.. Wrong!.:evil: Anyway I pulled the plug on the diff nice and clean no metal or water.. What do you guys think I’m hoping it’s not the diff but maybe a scarred rebuilt cv joint. Thanks Rob

The Yammy grease seems to be real expensive. Is there a after market grease that will do the job. I am planning on doing the shim mod and plan on doing the weight grease while I’m at it. When a person does this is there a reason to pull the rear (secondary I think)?

The Yammy grease seems to be real expensive. Is there a after market grease that will do the job. I am planning on doing the shim mod and plan on doing the weight grease while I’m at it. When a person does this is there a reason to pull the rear (secondary I think)?