I was looking for some recommendations for more power out of my 700. I don’t really care too much about top end, but would love some more low end power. Honestly, I would love to be able to wheelie easier. With the stock tires and rims, I could stand it up if I threw all my weight to the back as I gunned it. I added some 26" Zillas on 14" ITP SS212s and I can’t stand it up to save my life!
I added 1.5 mm shims this past weekend to see if that would help. I did notice a little difference in the take off, but still not enough to stand it up. Are there any cheap or easy mods to help with this? Or does anybody have any suggestions on good performance upgrades that don’t require actually breaking into the engine (like big bore kits, etc)? Thanks in advance for any help. :gcrules:
Hey guys – just bought a Grizz on CL, the ODO read ~200 hours / 700 miles. The previous owner seemed like a nice guy and the bike was clean and seemed to run well. The back brake doesn’t really work through pedal or lever, but I thought these brakes lasted forever and maybe it was a cable thing. Plus, with the engine brake it seemed fine.
Since purchasing, I’ve put about 10 miles on it and have been pleased, you know, doing stuff like checking the top speed, etc :icon_ goofy:
I like to maintain my stuff, so I started researching and going through the bike – checking fluids, drain plugs, etc. I popped the V-belt drain and sand came out (as with a lot of the other check hoses), so I thought I’d poke around a little more. I opened the Ultramatic Drive Case, and found the below pics, which kind of scared me.
Questions:
1. Is this normal? (700 miles / 200 hours, bike is 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 450)
2. How can I fix it?
3. How can I prevent this in the future?
I’m not sure where I’m at since every video and post I’ve seen has a different kind of belt in the transmission area, and its always been clean:-)
Looks like the belt is eaten up.. how is this possible so quickly? Has this thing been ridden hard, or towing, or something?
The bike has swamp lites on it on ITP wheels.
Also, 3 of the 12 bolts that hold this thing up were missing, and/or broken with threaded shaft left inside. Any help on how to fix this would be great, too.
Hello all, after 4 years of owning my 700 EPS I’m finally upgrading it! I ordered 27" skinny/wide mudzilla’s and am wondering how my clutch & belt will fair. What springs are recommended for trail & mud riding? 75% trail, rest mud.
When I went to accomplish the shim mod I allowed the sheave bearings to move because I didn’t hold the fixable plate tight enough. Now, the plate won’t move at all, it seems that the bearings shifted shifted.
Hello,I’m in the process of help my buddy install the jbs sheave greaseless of weights and sliders to his 450 Kodiak.its the same one I have and installed on my bike but were having troubles.I can’t remember if I used those little clips on the sliders or not and I can’t find the box of original clutch parts I took off.I don’t really want to take my clutch apart to see either.the problem is all the videos we watch of install this shows using the clips but the sliders he had come doesn’t take the clips and they are really tight to the camplate.we installed them but the camplate won’t slide up and down without excessive force.does anyone know if they are the wrong sliders or not.ive contacted jbs but cant get directly to james and am being told that the source that they are getting the sliders from are having problems and that they had to file down the groove for the slider to slide on the camplate and was told to file them down.I’m not a master at this so bear with me.here’s a little video showing the camplate.
OK, in middle of doing the valves on my 2008 Grizzly. This is my first time doing them myself.
First question – in regards to getting the engine to TDC, I turned the crankshaft counterclockwise until the intake valves open/closed. I then lined up the "I" to the mark with the stationary mark. I am having a hard time seeing that "I" mark on the magneto rotor. There is an "H" and then the "I" beside it. I don’t want to screw this up. Is there another way to double check that I am at TDC on the compression stroke? Damn near need to have a bionic eyes (or be young) to see that "I" mark that has oil on it.
2. To adjust the valves themselves seem straight forward. But, on mine, both for intake and exhaust, the valve rockers can be moved up maybe half an inch by hand. Is this normal or do I not have the TDC right?
And if this is normal, do I hold the rockers from moving to set the valves properly?
Have a 550 (09) that was just tuned up before it went out in the bush on spring bear hunts. Was running fine and the started to misfire and surge badly. Got to the point where it would not even stay started had to haul it out of the bush. Have got it to the point where it will idle for various lengths of time and then shut down (re-starts easy). When in gear it will find a happy spot and run ok but give it any gas and it starts to surge again not as bad though. When idling it will rev real high and then come back down and either shut off or keep idling depending on its mood. Also when idling you can hear a hesitation where it just about stalls and then catches again. Any ideas? Thanks.
Any one have any experience with this setup? I’d be interested in putting one in a new stock grizzly. Im just looking for more pull from a stop without sacrificing top end. I won’t be changing tire size.
Edit: Just found the "All things JBS, post it here" thread and it seems like its a much liked setup. Still feel free to tell me about your experience with this kit though. Especially if you’re running stock tire sizes. Thanks!
2008 700 that the 4wd will not engage on. I can hear the servo motor trying/working but it will not engage. The front driveshaft turns. And it acts like its hitting rev limiter when I have the diff lock button pushed even when I have the override button pushed. Any help is appreciated. Thanx
