So my Kodiak 450s pull start cover gets really hot , so hot it burns and blisters my wifes feet and ankles. She only wears flip flops, lol….of course she’ll wear jeans in the colder months …
Anybody have any ideas to cover or insulate the pull start ?
Anyone have a list or know what filters fit the 700 kodiak.? Will the same filters that fit the 550/700 work?I’ve tried searching but nothing comes up thanks in advance
My inside sheave is rubbing the inside plastic cover. It almost looks like there should be a washer behind it. Everything works fine. I did have the wet clutch apart in the off season for a new one way bearing, but the shaft does not wobble or have play in out or sis to side. In addition my 1 mm shim looks like it’s down to .5mm. The back side of the inner sheave is recessed.
My inside sheave is rubbing the inside plastic cover. It almost looks like there should be a washer behind it. Everything works fine. I did have the wet clutch apart in the off season for a new one way bearing, but the shaft does not wobble or have play in out or sis to side. In addition my 1 mm shim looks like it’s down to .5mm. The back side of the inner sheave is recessed.
Hey guys so figured I would do a much needed cleaning of the cvt on my dads 450 kodiack before I attempt any clutch mods on my 16 kodiack every thing is going pretty smooth I just have a couple questions. The collar in between the primary sheaves will not come off is there a trick I’m missing also on the the inside fixed sheave I can wiggle the sheave a little if I push in on one side and pull out on the other no much but there is wiggle is this bad or normal the shaft it self also wiggles very slightly not as much as the sheave. Thanks for any input.
So I replaced the diff fluid in my 09 grizz 450 and the rear is leaking at a few drops an hour consistently. As you can imagine, after a couple of days, you have a small puddle …
When I bought this grizz, there was no leak, because there was no fluid.
My question is – can I drive it this way if I keep topping the fluid off with a few squirts of gear oil?
Does anyone do this instead of changing the seals so often? I’ll get to it, but I want to ride also.
Had some 29.5 terminator skinnys, got rid of them for some 28 inch wide outlaw 2s. Outlaws actually measure a bit big at 29 inches tall. Seems to turn the outlaws better than it did the terms, and I’m happy with it just thinking I may want more. I have coop45 machined sheave, gold epi spring in the secondary, and stock weights. Is it really worth tearing back into the clutch just to add some lighter weights? If I do I’m going with the 14g weights from a Kodiak. I stay in low range a decent bit, and have hellacious engine breaking from the gold spring on the 550 btw. Haha.
So my 2014 never had water in engine has either spun the crank or rod bearing. I was crusing down the road and thought the clutch came apart. Can’t believe it. Got the motor out today I’ll let you know what I find
So I was having some overheating issues to the point of my coolant boiling out of the overflow bottle. After hours of cleaning the rad in the factory position I though it was good to go and I was sadly mistaken as I kept overheating.
I decided to pull the trigger and order a Wild Boar kit. After I pulled the rad out and actually held it up to the light I couldn’t believe have caked full of sh*t it was, there was maybe 20% of the rad fins that werent clogged up. I had to let the rad soak over night to fget it completely clean.
Anyway so I installed the Wild boar kit and it fit great no problems at all. I rode all say yesterday in very slow technical trails rarley coming out of low gear and my fan never turned on once….Before the rad kit my fan would run constantly.
Just thought I’d put it out there that its a great investment
