I have been having issues out of my grizzly.
It started with gas leaking out of the carburetor vent hose.
I replaced the float valve. this fixed the leaking problem. But then the bike would not run right. With the choke on the bike will start and stay running, but if you turn the choke off the bike sputters and dies, if you give more than about a quarter throttle the bike bogs down and dies. I replaced a fouled spark plug. I have taken the entire carburetor apart and soaked in a chemical cleaner, and blown out the jets with an air compressor. Is there anything else I should try?
Hi, I have a small popping or clunking noise coming from under the machine when coming to a stop. Its on the left side and I feel it under my foot. Engine braking is good but seems like it does it with the braking. I just put two new axles in the rear. Differential is tight. Its not crazy loud but I still hear it and feel it. Any ideas?
Hello, could someone snap a pic of how the stock cvt intake tube behind the cylinder is fitted? Does it bolt to anything? I just removed the snorkel system on mine but I never saw how the stock tube was mounted to the rubber elbow. Thanks for the help!
Hello, could someone snap a pic of how the stock cvt intake tube behind the cylinder is fitted? Does it bolt to anything? I just removed the snorkel system on mine but I never saw how the stock tube was mounted to the rubber elbow. Thanks for the help!
Hey guys, I’m attempting to remove my rear axle sides to replace the axle seals. I have removed the left side, but the right side is stuck. I have tried rotating the drive shaft a little bit each way to see if I could free it up, nothing.
When I was yanking at the axle to remove it, I think I must have popped the CV knuckle out that was closest to the axle. So, its hanging by the boot now.
When I look through the axle (pic attached) from the left side, I can see the right side plugged in there.
How can I get this right axle out? I tried lightly tapping a piece of wood with a rubber mallet to push it out, but nothing.
Should I take the boot off of the right side? What do I need to fix the CV boot knuckle?
I don’t have a service manual, this was supposed to be easy according to youtube 🙂
Hello! New to the forum and new to a Grizzly. Just got an 09 Grizz 350 2wd. Guy said was sitting about a year. Well I got it to putter a little with the pull cord and starter fluid into carb. So I bought it. I took carb off cleaned it, but it back. Checked oil, haven’t changed it yet. Oil wasn’t black, still looked pretty new. ATV looks to have no mods at all, still has stock tires. No hourmeter/odometer to know how much it’s been rode though. Using the pull cord is ridiculously hard, Amazing compression? So that fixed it, it fires right up with no choke and idles fine, revs up fine, gears are fine, engine feels tight. But after 15-20 minutes of riding I looked and oil had pumped back into the air box so hard it came out the side of the box and was running down onto my left footwell and down that side of the engine, and air box was 1/4"+ deep in it. Sooo… I let it cool. Check oil, it’s now so low it doesn’t touch the dipstick. (checked without screwing it in) is this right? I then topped the oil off until it touched the top line on the dipstick without screwing it in. Then I took the breather line from air box to head and made sure it was nice and clear and it wasn’t pinched. I cranked the motor and covered the crank vent on the head. Can feel air but it’s light, pretty much the weight of my finger can seal it off, and I let it idle about 5 min and not a speck of oil came out that I seen. The pressure felt about the same as my Timberwolf 250s vent to me. So shouldn’t have blow by, compression feels GREAT. I refuse to pull start it it’s so difficult. Is there a compression relief valve for this thing? It has never smoked once, when cold or hot, at high rev or anything. When I idle it with no air filter or lid on and choke maybe 1/4 way on now and then I’ll get a very faint back fire, but figure that’s about normal with the lack of filter and choke on. What you guys think? Needs valve adjust? Timing? It sounds good. I’ll check these things tomorrow. Also spark plug was good. A dry and clean plug with a light rusty color.
Anyone got a link for a download of a service manual for one of these? That would be helpful.
so have a 2013 grizzly 700 that I’m running 29.5 outlaw 2s on i had a epi mudder clutch kit in from day one and burnt my wet clutch down to metal on metal in 300kms so i had a shop to install an entirely new wet clutch assembly, jbs sheave, and wet clutch slugs, but after riding another 200km I’m having it stall on me when i go to move it if i hit the gas hard if i start slow it will move, once I’m rolling it like nothings wrong and then when i go to load it into my truck i have to really give it gas to get up my ramps it seems like its maybe the wet clutch again i don’t want to think that with the fact that i thought i built proofed it
if anyone has any ideas that would be great thanks
thanks in advance, mods feel free to move if in wrong section. Thanks
History- bike was sitting for a while and upon buying seemed fine other than starter dragging. went to load on trailer to take to mechanic and smelled burning wires. Took to mechanic and he found burnt wiring harness where it made contact with exhaust. Harness was repaired and starter issue fixed. Here is where it gets strange. bike starts and idles great. All electrical tests have been done and all items in spec according to service manual, but machine will not go over 10-12 mph. It will not rev in neutral without hitting limiter, will not run out in forward or reverse. All lights work correctly. Have done bypass on reverse switch, and replaced many items including wiring harness(just in case) and cdi. Can not figure it out.
So here is the situation. Starts and idles fine. Just wont run out. Mechanic says there is a speed sensor in the manual odometer that may cause this but he isn’t familiar with how to test or bypass this. I am stuck with a yard ornament if I cant figure it out. The machine ran great other than starter issue until the harness melted. Please help. Thanks
Hey guys haven’t posted in a long long time. I’ve also had my 660 a long long time and it’s ran like a top. I just put a power tip on it and it won’t idle to save it’s life. I noticed some power loss on top end too so I tore the carb Down. I have a kit on the way along with a new main needle diaphragm because of a small tear.
it’s got stock jets in it now 40/153.. For the power tip what jets should I install? I got some jets off Rocky Mountain. All they showed larger for the pilot was a 45 so I got that and 155,157 and 160 mains. For now it has a lid on but plan to run snorks in the very near future. So what’s a good starting point? I did search on here but wasn’t able to turn anything close to mine most others have a snorks and pipe. Thank y’all.
So my Kodiak 450s pull start cover gets really hot , so hot it burns and blisters my wifes feet and ankles. She only wears flip flops, lol….of course she’ll wear jeans in the colder months …
Anybody have any ideas to cover or insulate the pull start ?
