Hello there,
had a clacking found on my Vario, i had a Yamaha Grizzly 550,so i disassembled the Vario from my Grizzly, but i found nothing.
But the shaft where the primary Vario puts on, wiggle, I can move it to
difference ways, up down, left or right.
So, i removed the clutch Housing , and have found that i can wave the clutch shaft a little to differnt ways,up,down,left ,right.
There are 6 Bolts, all 6 Bolts seems to be a little loose.
Now I do not know, if that ,has to be from the Factory or if it’s a
Malfunction.
So after doing a couple tire obstacle courses i noticed my engine temp light came on and when i looked underneath the front wheel well i found green coolant leaking a pretty good amount. Issue is all my tools are up at school and im not lugging my entire tool box home for this. Anybody have any suggestions on what tools im going to need to get into this project? And will thw front plastics have to be removed? Thanks
I’ve never used a forum before so I figured I’d give it a shot. I in need of some advice. I have a late model 02 grizzly 660. I recently purchased a heavy duty starter clutch kit for an 03 grizzly. I would like to convert this to work in my 02 because I am unable to find a heavy duty application for that year model. My question is if I were to purchase an 03 flywheel would it work with my 02 stater?
Greasing the universal joints on my front drive shaft (tranny to front diff) having a hell of a time greasing the one closest to the engine. I was able to make my grease gun nozzle "skinnier" with a trip to the grinding wheel so I can do the front joint but no way no how can I get the grease gun on the grease zerk on the rear universal joint. My grease gun has a flexible hose so that is not an issue. Got about 3,200 miles on it and I don’t think the rear joint has ever been greased. Starting to get that dry rattely sound from the drive shaft area when traveling 30-35 mph or so.
What’s the secret to greasing the rear universal joint on the front drive shaft?
main drive shaft from trans to diff. what is easiest way to remove it? has disconnected itself from diff just flopping around inside diff. dont look good for my o5 660 grizz. 4×4 of course. any help?
In the process of my 07 700 lower rebuild and I noticed my clutch roller weights have flat spots on them. I never noticed it before. I assume they are supposed to be round, so I was going to order some new ones. My question is…..With 30" tires, 1.7mm of shim and a gold secondary spring, would changing the stock weights benefit me any, and if so, what weights should I order for it?? I am unsure on this as I have read numerous posts and searched but seems to be no real clear answer on running mismatched weights or all same weight and what total weight would be best for my setup.
My 04 , 660 Grizzly has been having a harder time turning over the engine at start up. Bought a new battery, etc and finally narrowed it down to the exhaust valves being out of adjustment and not allowing the decompression pin to function. I’ve been fiddling with the exhaust valves and now have it turning over very easily at cold start up.
BUT – here is where I am confused : sources vary on what the exhaust valve clearance should be, but regardless – if the decompression pin is extended ( slightly opening the exhaust valves ) until the engine reaches several hundred RPM – that means there would be NO clearance until the pin retracts – correct ? If this is the case, not sure how to adjust exhaust valves …… what am I missing ?
Thanks, JB
So I’ve had this happen twice now, and a buddy has had it happen as well… The coolant hose on the left side comming off the radiator to the bottom of the motor has been ripped off once while riding through some brushy mountain riding, ( had to coast downhill to the truck), and another time while crawling in 4 Lo, the left front tire kicked up a rock and punctured the hose about 2" from the end at the bottom connection about 12 miles from the truck. Luckily I was able to cut the end off and reattach it and had a 2 litre water bottle in my pack that I was able to fill it most of the way and limp home. That hose seems to be pretty exposed there. Has anyone else ran into this issue and had to get creative to fix it?
I brought some hose armour home from work and just temporarily fixed it for now, it’s not bullet proof but it’ll help until I can make something more sturdy.
So I’ve had this happen twice now, and a buddy has had it happen as well… The coolant hose on the left side comming off the radiator to the bottom of the motor has been ripped off once while riding through some brushy mountain riding, ( had to coast downhill to the truck), and another time while crawling in 4 Lo, the left front tire kicked up a rock and punctured the hose about 2" from the end at the bottom connection about 12 miles from the truck. Luckily I was able to cut the end off and reattach it and had a 2 litre water bottle in my pack that I was able to fill it most of the way and limp home. That hose seems to be pretty exposed there. Has anyone else ran into this issue and had to get creative to fix it?
I brought some hose armour home from work and just temporarily fixed it for now, it’s not bullet proof but it’ll help until I can make something more sturdy.
