Hi everyone, name is Mike and I’m from upstate NY. I picked up a 2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660 on craigslist yesterday. I bought it for $2,800 including a Warn winch and plow. It has under 400 miles on it but over 300 hours, the guy never took it off his property and used it for plowing, salting, and other yard related things. It’s runs really nicely, starts up each time and has never had to manually be pull started. I’m just a little concerned about the rust and am hoping you guys could offer your opinion on it. I took a screwdriver to a few parts of it and it was solid, not soft. Some of the rust flaked off, I noticed it on the floor of my trailer after I hauled it home and also after hitting the frame with the screwdrvier. Do you guys think it’s surface rust or something I should be concerned with? You think it was a good deal? I would like to use the quad for local trails and would like it to last, so IDK if I should sell it and get something less rusty or not.
Can anyone help point me a direction to get a descent set of Grizzly 600 fenders. I flipped my father-in-law’s motorbike over the 4th and I’m trying to make it right. I can’t find a descent set ANYWHERE! Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys I’m new to the site, I bent my front right lower control arm last weekend and my tie rod and I’m curious what year grizzlys Had the same A ARM’s on them? Maybe 2007 and later or is it 2014-2015 only? Thanks
Well came home after a 4 day ride / camping trip and a week later I finally get the time to get the bikes off the trailer and give them a tub. As I’m removing the traps I notice that my Left Rear Elka is leaking oil from the main shaft. Not happy. I call up the only Australian Distributer and he tells me to send the shock to him and he’d repair it. So the good part is that its covered under warranty. ( Less than 2 months old) The bad news is that his shop is 4000kms away near Sydney and I probably wont see it back for a month.
Has anyone else had issues with their Elkas leaking?
My rear differential is making a popping sound. I thought it was a CV joint at first, but those are all tight and in good shape.
Prior to this popping, I did replace the rear right outer CV joint, so I thought it was from me putting something back together wrong. I suspect now that the CV joint wasn’t what was making the noise before, I had a bad boot and assume noise was from CV joint. The noise is however much louder now.
There is a lot of slop in the drive shaft and I am hoping that it is just that, however I thought I would consult with you guys before I started ripping anything apart.
Here are two videos, one of the noise and one showing the slop in the drive shaft.
EDIT: The video above is in 2WD Neutral. After making a few pops the noise goes away for a while in that direction, it’s when I turn the wheel backwards a bit, then try to go forward, I feel a great deal of resistance then the pop happens and it turns again.
It is common knowledge that if you do technical riding, jumps, drops and wheelies on the grizz, the ball joints are going to fail.
The best way to prevent ball joint is replace them often. I do mine every year as I have had numerous failures. I have since added limiter straps to my a arms to reduce the risk and the failures are few and far between.
To do this you need to go to you dealer and buy limiter straps from any snowmobile model. Mine are from a Yamaha nytro. Simply bolt them to your upper and lower a arm very tightly and this will prevent the ball joints from pulling apart. If they do, it will be limited and likely not come all the way out. Enough to get you home at least.
Refer to picture.
Also if your ball joint does ever fail on you, now worries. Straps or not, if you have a winch, wrap that sucker around both arms and suck it in. There is no way it will come apart on you and you can get home in a safe manner. Ratchet straps also work or a whole package of zip ties and duct tape.
I believe my rear shocks are worn out/blown. When I push down on the rear rack it will spring right up. The front comes up nice and smooth. Just happened to notice this on Sundays ride. It has 3440 miles so its time anyways. I looked at cheap cycle parts and the replacement oem rear shocks for 2011 are $90 more (per shock) then the 2012 shocks. I believe 2012 should fit fine but what would make it have such a huge price difference? Anyways, elkas’ are nice but are huge $$$ and not far behind are the works. Any other competative brands out here? Thanks.
I believe my rear shocks are worn out/blown. When I push down on the rear rack it will spring right up. The front comes up nice and smooth. Just happened to notice this on Sundays ride. It has 3440 miles so its time anyways. I looked at cheap cycle parts and the replacement oem rear shocks for 2011 are $90 more (per shock) then the 2012 shocks. I believe 2012 should fit fine but what would make it have such a huge price difference? Anyways, elkas’ are nice but are huge $$$ and not far behind are the works. Any other competative brands out here? Thanks.
My right front wheel bearing is starting to squeak so I’ll be changing it soon. This will be the first time I’ve done this. I do have plenty tools and an electric torque wrench.
I’ve watched a number of videos on YouTube. the only question I have is I want to make sure I get the right bearings from Amazon.
Looking at a parts diagram online shows two bearings and seals on the one knuckle?
One inside and one outside on the knuckle?
What’s the home shop routine for removing those? On a single bearing they drove it out with a 1 7/8 hitch ball which was easy. I’m not sure about this or if I’m seeing this twin bearing and seal thing correctly.
Does anyone use neverseize when installing the bearing to make the next removal not so difficult?
I would probably order the bearings made by All Balls from what I’ve read.
