anyone know what type of tubing is used for the frame of a 2005 660? I need to repair some of the 1" tubing near the front as it is rusted through. I bought a beat up grizzly that was obviously under what a ton and wasn’t taken care of. I was just going to get some steel since it’s already old and beat up, anything is better than wholes in frame but if I can spend 2-3x more I don’t mind. Any suggestions? thickness?

anyone know what type of tubing is used for the frame of a 2005 660? I need to repair some of the 1" tubing near the front as it is rusted through. I bought a beat up grizzly that was obviously under what a ton and wasn’t taken care of. I was just going to get some steel since it’s already old and beat up, anything is better than wholes in frame but if I can spend 2-3x more I don’t mind. Any suggestions? thickness?

I just installed a 6" Catvos lift on my grizzly and man does it looks good but I noticed the left side rear axle is touching the upper arm right where it bolts to frame. Catvos said they seen it many times and that my rear end diff has moved and I need a gusset plate. I got the plate in from Turners and was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what is the best way to realign the diff? I looked at the mounts and nothing looks out of place or broke. Thanks for the help!

I just installed a 6" Catvos lift on my grizzly and man does it looks good but I noticed the left side rear axle is touching the upper arm right where it bolts to frame. Catvos said they seen it many times and that my rear end diff has moved and I need a gusset plate. I got the plate in from Turners and was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what is the best way to realign the diff? I looked at the mounts and nothing looks out of place or broke. Thanks for the help!

Are the stock cv boots junk or am I just unlucky? New grizzly has 16hours and 88 miles on it and already need two new boots. Front one has a small hole in it but the rear is trashed. Anyone else have this problem?

Are the stock cv boots junk or am I just unlucky? New grizzly has 16hours and 88 miles on it and already need two new boots. Front one has a small hole in it but the rear is trashed. Anyone else have this problem?

Are the stock cv boots junk or am I just unlucky? New grizzly has 16hours and 88 miles on it and already need two new boots. Front one has a small hole in it but the rear is trashed. Anyone else have this problem?

It is possible to add a second dry storage on the left fender of your Grizzly. It could also probably be added to other machines as well as long as you have a spot for it. Parts total about $35, I’ll edit the post and add part numbers and prices later. You can probably find one cheaper used. This really is a quick and dirty method.

I started by turning the storage box upside down over the spot I wanted it and roughly traced out the circle of the threaded neck. If you want to spend a little more money you could buy a 4-1/2" hole saw but I just drilled a series of 1/4 holes along my circle and then used the drill to connect-the -dots by cutting with the side. Not the prettiest but it works and will be hidden by the bezel in the end. It looks rougher than it actually is in the photo because the camo leaves a skin at the edge of the hole.

The hole will require a notch at 6 o’clock or 12 o’clock depending on how you orient the box.

When you stuff the bezel under the lip you may have to pull it out and reposition to get it lined up properly. Once you have the ends of the bezel fairly even with the tab on the box, drill 1/8" through the fender using the holes in the ends of the bezel as a guide. Don’t drill all the way through into the box. The screws will thread themselves through the fender and into the holes that are already in the box.

Depending on where you position the box you may have some interference from the warning placard recess. I used a heat gun to soften the plastic and ‘blister’ it for clearance.

It is possible to add a second dry storage on the left fender of your Grizzly. It could also probably be added to other machines as well as long as you have a spot for it. Parts total about $35, I’ll edit the post and add part numbers and prices later. You can probably find one cheaper used. This really is a quick and dirty method.

I started by turning the storage box upside down over the spot I wanted it and roughly traced out the circle of the threaded neck. If you want to spend a little more money you could buy a 4-1/2" hole saw but I just drilled a series of 1/4 holes along my circle and then used the drill to connect-the -dots by cutting with the side. Not the prettiest but it works and will be hidden by the bezel in the end. It looks rougher than it actually is in the photo because the camo leaves a skin at the edge of the hole.

The hole will require a notch at 6 o’clock or 12 o’clock depending on how you orient the box.

When you stuff the bezel under the lip you may have to pull it out and reposition to get it lined up properly. Once you have the ends of the bezel fairly even with the tab on the box, drill 1/8" through the fender using the holes in the ends of the bezel as a guide. Don’t drill all the way through into the box. The screws will thread themselves through the fender and into the holes that are already in the box.

Depending on where you position the box you may have some interference from the warning placard recess. I used a heat gun to soften the plastic and ‘blister’ it for clearance.

I actually have two issues/questions. I have a 2009 grizzly 550 and my riding buddy has a 2010 grizzly 700. His started making a snapping/knocking noise in the front when going over bumps. Sounded like maybe the cvs were getting ready to go. His dealer replaced both. Noise is still there and quite bad. You can create the noise by pulling out quickly on the tire/wheel. One side is a lot worse than the other. I checked mine by pulling hard on the wheel and I get no snap on one side but other side I do but not near as much as his. Any idea what this could be? I was thinking perhaps wheel bearing? But if that was the case wouldn’t the dealer have noticed how bad his was when replacing the cv. The cv slides into that wheel bearing does it not.

Other question. Is there any difference or update between 2009 and 2010 with the power steering. I find very little assist on my 550 compared to his. Night and day really. His feels like Polaris power steering to me when I get on it. His turn radius is also half of mine. We have same tires. The steering toe in seems to be fine on mine. There is no way there should be that much difference. Wondering if mine is working at all when I compare it to his. I turn atv on eps comes on then off. Which is normal from what I have read. Any thoughts on these two issues?