Well since my 570 is down for a rebuild, I am thinking about going forced induction for a little more power.I know i would have to build my own kit, but while motor is apart i would imagine get crank pinned and welded, head already needs redone, so gonna have it done anyhow. Any other sugestions on what to upgrade, or suggestions ( besides buy a bigger rzr) would help out.

GOOD DAY, the group. First of all sorry for my English is very poor. I’m from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

I’m riding a turbo on my current home rzr4 850cc. Currently I use a big bore kit Muzzys 850, but I want to give more power, so I started with the assembly of a turbo.
I tell my settings:

the idea is to use it with no more than 10 psi of pressure turbo

1 I have a CP forged pistons have 9.1
2 I have riveted and welded Crankshaft
3 I have new cylinders 850 Muzzys
4 I have a powercommander V ignition, fuel and turbo
5 I may have air intercooler air fan
6 I have a
7 I have a garret gt1544 turbo
8 I have safety valve oil ALBA
9 I have a dalton adjustable clutch kit
10 I have a wideband innovate

They may help with some doubts?

1 I have to turn up the pressure on the fuel pump? how much?

2 I have to change the filter or original oire reached with mounting on the rear bed? I have a kyn but was told that let so much dust do not want to use.

3 I have original injectors reached? but which would have to change

4 I have to add an oil cooler circuit?

5 Connection turbo oil would take the dipstick oil level and then where do return?

6 PRESSURE SENSOR powercommander put it just before the throttle body?

7 Where can I get information to start managing well the powercommander?

8 How to calculate it convenient work advances ignition timing of the engine?

Sorry for so many questions, I know there in the forum, specializes PEOPLE, MAYBE CAN HELP

THANKS

PAUL

GOOD DAY, the group. First of all sorry for my English is very poor. I’m from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

I’m riding a turbo on my current home rzr4 850cc. Currently I use a big bore kit Muzzys 850, but I want to give more power, so I started with the assembly of a turbo.
I tell my settings:

the idea is to use it with no more than 10 psi of pressure turbo

1 I have a CP forged pistons have 9.1
2 I have riveted and welded Crankshaft
3 I have new cylinders 850 Muzzys
4 I have a powercommander V ignition, fuel and turbo
5 I may have air intercooler air fan
6 I have a
7 I have a garret gt1544 turbo
8 I have safety valve oil ALBA
9 I have a dalton adjustable clutch kit
10 I have a wideband innovate

They may help with some doubts?

1 I have to turn up the pressure on the fuel pump? how much?

2 I have to change the filter or original oire reached with mounting on the rear bed? I have a kyn but was told that let so much dust do not want to use.

3 I have original injectors reached? but which would have to change

4 I have to add an oil cooler circuit?

5 Connection turbo oil would take the dipstick oil level and then where do return?

6 PRESSURE SENSOR powercommander put it just before the throttle body?

7 Where can I get information to start managing well the powercommander?

8 How to calculate it convenient work advances ignition timing of the engine?

Sorry for so many questions, I know there in the forum, specializes PEOPLE, MAYBE CAN HELP

THANKS

PAUL

Added Kibblewhite valves also…..

Running out of Photo memory on the RZR site not sure how to post more photos…..

Anyway… Like to help out with questions regarding the Aerocharger kit and any of the mods i have done.. That includes the PC V

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Wanted to show some of the extra’s i have done with my 2011 XP 900 Aerocharger turbo addition. only used the "core Kit" of the build and upgraded everywhere i could to make the turbo experience better, Ill break it down…

1)Engine had 280HRS. on it with the HO polaris kit installed (HO kit by the way worked great… my machine would run with the two seat 1000’s down the sand drags in Glamis )

2)Got the Aerocharger kit used and it needed refreshed… so on with the story

3)Ditched the aerocharger supplied fuel controller and went with Power commander V PTI and also swapped out the 3 bar map sensor for a 2 bar G.M. style map sensor for the purpose of the voltage resolution it would provide to the PCV. Incidentally the "temperature part of the PC PTI" that is used in there sales is purely a gimmick as there are no tables to allow for "temperature" compensated fuel mixtures.. This currently can only be used for Startup fuel enrichment and when to turn on Auto tune functions…. So don’t purchase thinking you are getting the greatest controller out there…not the case they need more R&D and better hardware/software to make our turbos work more better….
I spared no expense with PCV as purchased the AutoTune and also the LCD-200 display to make sure i "did it right".

4)Had the Water cooled intercooler plenum checked for leaks and welded aluminum bung on top for the trapped air (factory has it just tapped into the aluminum tank)

5)Added a coolant purge tank for the water intercooler (factory has it plugged off)

6)Used High quality silicone hoses for a water transfer and turbo connections (eBay is a good source for these) also used Header wrap anywhere i could to reduce heat transfer to the aluminum intake plenum… Once again eBay does well for this header wrap cost has come down to a cost that is cheap and reasonable

7)Used the orig Exhaust muffler for my first "shakedown" trip but soon realized the sound was too loud to deal with so I then cut up my SLP dual outlet muffler that was on the car for the polaris HO kit and began the addition of that back on the car….. That turned out great Nice addition…

8)Fuel injectors were the "yellows" that were in the aerocharger kit (gasoline) not E85)) but found that one injector was suspect in that one cylinder went lean and burned up leaving me with regret and why did i do this turbo kit…. I replaced both injectors with a set from 5 0 Motorsports (630CC set) there website makes it easy for the RZR community to buy injectors.. check them out if your in need of injectors.

First trip out and well the car was bad ass!! I was beating three new turbo XPT’s by a car length up COMP hill at buttercup dunes….. great feeling that the "old 900" still was bad ass…
The engine was stock compression 10.5 to 1 and 280 hrs with polaris HO/Stage II cams installed and pushing 6-7 PSI of boost at 14.7 seal level, and 91 gas
However as i said the cars bad ass life was short lived… I burned up a piston and not exactly sure how it happened (injector problem, Top compression ring end gap was lined up with the valve relief cut into the top of the piston (very thin distance from top of piston to the ring gap opening, detonation, Or THE UNKNOWN)

So on with the REBUILD….

engine now has:
1) 9.0:1 turbo specific pistons The only way to go as they are build to better deal with the demands now placed on the combustion chamber

2)ARP head studs now available to torque to 85# yes 85Ft Lbs.

3)New WEB cams "beehive valve springs" #81 seat pressure (stock HO springs 41# as i have read) This will allow higher boost pressures but moreover the bigger issue with the Prostar engines and stock valve springs is its easy to "float and drop a valve" the cam profiles other than polaris’s have steep ramps and could leave you walking back to camp…. and a lot of damage .. along with the cam story please realize that with heavier springs its mandatory to replace the cam followers (buckets) as thy are a soft metal and the 81# seat pressures will tear them up (I had this happen also……)

4)Aftermarket chain tensioner replacment (i used ALBA racings Automatic one that uses a yamaha auto tensioner and a a aluminum adapter ) NICE JUNK!!!! I did this due to the extra force on the cam chain opening the heavy bee hive valve springs…

5)Billet (K&T) intake manifold so i could add boost and not be concerned of the stock manifolds cracking and causing tuning issues

6)50 motorsports 630CC injectors as i mentioned

7) WEB CAMS #516 grind camshafts for turbo engines (small valve overlap) Valve overlap in N/A engines allows for a scavenging effect to help draw in the next intake charge… with forced induction overlap is not required and effectively pushes wasted charge out the tailpipe!!

8) Exhaust modifications : Didn’t care as i said with the stock muffler from aerocharger and modified my SLP dual outlet muffler to fit machine again….. along with that i was not happy with the fit of the exhaust pipe to the turbo inlet… Those who are aware of the two aerocharger header designs would recall the first design had a flex joint in the header to allow for thermal expansion and movement for the turbo housing that is mounted directly to the frame of the XP9 (good idea, necessary idea) the second design used a "donut gasket" and a solid pipe connection the header to the turbo housing,….. Not good in my mind….. so i fabricated a hybrid design I added a flex joint to the second design and we’ll its bad ass!!!! Now on to the O2 sensor location… I was not thrilled with the location of the stock mounted O2 sensor from aerocharger it was Post turbo and i understand the concept… its so the O2 sensor in not in a pressure environment however due to the donut gasket and other possible air leaks i chose to relocate to a more conventional location … Up on the header where the two cylinders combine…. This will allow a perfect place to sample the heat generated from the combustion chambers… So far so good pressure PRE turbo have not caused issues with sampling.

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OK, almost got stranded 20 miles out of Quartzsite, AZ the other day. I know the motor is not leaking on the intake side and it makes about 1.5lbs of boost at just 20mph. Last compression check was 115 and 102lbs. Uses 1qt of oil per 400 miles based upon 1/8th Qt for a 50 mile run. It will run for an hour and then all of a sudden the AFR goes to 10 and the only way to keep it running is to keep your foot in it….It quit a couple of times when I let my foot off the throttle due to gully or sharp turn. I can no longer use it because failure is not a good option as I am usually the only vehicle within many miles when I use it. Hopefully Nate will have an idea and I think its been doing this since new, but it now just does it worse and worse. I used to have to run it pretty hard to enjoy it but now I see that its the AFR that is going way too rich and I am wondering if there is a sensor that might be going bad? The piggy back fuel controller is basically turned off and this still happens! Help

Is the gtx worth the $ ? Anyone have experience with both ? Any input is appreciated.

I have a 2014 1000 with a turbo and a PC-5 with an Autotune. Had a few intake leak gremlins that I now have sorted out. It runs real strong, pulls hard.

Problems are, it backfires on decel pretty loud. Just a couple of big pops when coming down from a short full throttle run. I can’t seem to find any exhaust leaks at all so I’m not sure. It didn’t do it for the first 50 or 60 miles.

Also, after running it for a while, when I slow to a stop, it’s super lean, like around 17 or 18 on the A/F and won’t idle right and just quits. If I shut it off for a second, then start it back up, it’s smooth and sitting right around 13 A/F.

The other thing is, under very gentle acceleration or even just a straight cruise speed, it surges. If I roll into it just a bit to accelerate, it’s ok. Anyone have any idea what might be causing these problems? I’ve turboed a lot of vehicles in my life and never ran into this stuff. Thanks, Dan

I have a 2014 1000 with a turbo and a PC-5 with an Autotune. Had a few intake leak gremlins that I now have sorted out. It runs real strong, pulls hard.

Problems are, it backfires on decel pretty loud. Just a couple of big pops when coming down from a short full throttle run. I can’t seem to find any exhaust leaks at all so I’m not sure. It didn’t do it for the first 50 or 60 miles.

Also, after running it for a while, when I slow to a stop, it’s super lean, like around 17 or 18 on the A/F and won’t idle right and just quits. If I shut it off for a second, then start it back up, it’s smooth and sitting right around 13 A/F.

The other thing is, under very gentle acceleration or even just a straight cruise speed, it surges. If I roll into it just a bit to accelerate, it’s ok. Anyone have any idea what might be causing these problems? I’ve turboed a lot of vehicles in my life and never ran into this stuff. Thanks, Dan