I need to pick the collective forum’s brain on an issue I am having with my 2012 rzr 800. There are a number of knowledge people as part of this community so hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction. Story/symptoms are as follows:
• During hunting season Nov 2014, I used the rzr to set stands all day on a Friday. Ran fine.
• Parked it Friday night.
• Got in Saturday morning to go hunt and it would start up and idle. Give it gas it died. Tried this several times and no luck. Pulled the air filter off. Tried running without air filter to see what would happen. No difference. Don’t believe there is a vane sensor on the 2012, but tried mashing the gas before starting, etc. to see if that would work. No success. Rzr stopped starting all together and would just turn over after several attempts. Cussed extensively and pushed it into the trailer….went hunting. Didn’t get anything for the 2014 deer season, cussed some more.
• April 2015, weather warms up enough to work on the rzr. Got it out of the trailer.
• Read forums and thought maybe the problem was a crank positioning sensor. Bought one and replaced. No difference. Wouldn’t start.
• Ohmed out several connections (CPS, TPS, MAP, etc.) all seem to check out ok.
• Checked fuel pressure at the rail, meets service manual specs. So doesn’t seem like it is the fuel pump issue I have read about several times on the forum.
• For the heck of it, checked compression on both cylinders…. 60 psi on one, 85 on the other!!!
• Pulled off the jug. Rings are seized in the pistons. No noticeable significant scoring on cylinders. Engine is stock.
• Replaced pistons and rings, reassembled. Started up.
• Rolled out of garage to take around the block to let rings seat in….got to end of the driveway. Rzr dies.
• Try restarting. Will idle, but give it gas it dies.
• Pull it back into the garage and read some more on the forums. Since the rings were seized in the piston it seems to indicate there is an oil problem? Dip stick indicates oil level is fine.
• Read about issues with oil pressure relief valve on the RZR 800 engine, so checked that.
• The dowel appears to be stuck. Won’t come out after several different attempts (aerokril, pen magnetic, etc).. So this would seem to mean it is stuck in a high oil pressure mode?
• I buy an oil pressure gauge and sending unit. Change oil and filter. Install pressure gauge and try starting the rzr. Rzr starts idles, oil pressure builds and gauge pegs at 100 psi, then rzr dies.
So, it appears I have a few things now to try and fix/figure out.
A) Oil pressure relief value sticking…. Any good suggestions on how to get it out (without pulling the engine preferably)? I already bought a new dowel once I get it out. Also considering buying the Holz adjustable valve I have read about on here. So that will help in the future….but not fix the current situation.
B) Why would the rings have seized in the piston? I am concerned about trying to start the engine too many times now to troubleshoot incase the rings seize again.
C) Any suggestions as to why it would start, idle and then die? It currently dies even if you do not give it gas.
Just wanted to help people out with starter drive bushing wear. Polaris has no listing for just the bushing on the 700 and 800 engines BUT i found that this part number is the exact replacement so no longer do you have to be forced to buy the engine cases just for the bushings. The polaris part number is 3083669. This is the same bushing that fits a 500 engine.
Just wanted to help people out with starter drive bushing wear. Polaris has no listing for just the bushing on the 700 and 800 engines BUT i found that this part number is the exact replacement so no longer do you have to be forced to buy the engine cases just for the bushings. The polaris part number is 3083669. This is the same bushing that fits a 500 engine.
Ok I know the GoPro is making the sound worse then it really is cause when you hear me open the door in the rest of the video its sounding like the hinges are crazy squeaky and when you go outside you can barely hear the door squeak. but is this normal and is it just the same noise I hear driving on pavement around the house from the drive shaft issue? Also the shock noise is that normal?
I made a similar post over on the RZR 170 specific forum a few weeks ago, but I’m hoping this forum can provide additional insight. Here’s what’s going on:
When you first put it in drive, and press on the gas it will engage harshly (slams into gear instead of clicking into gear). It won’t do this again until taken out of gear.
If you press on the gas very lightly when you first put it in drive it will engage much less severely.
No grinding or issues otherwise.
No additional issues with the machine once it’s in drive and engaged.
Thanks for your help! I’m hoping to open the machine up this weekend and your input will help me a lot.
I’m planning on taking this thing to the shop but I figured I’d check here just in case I’m overlooking something simple. Bottom line is my razor is overheating. I read a few threads about bleeding the air from the system and I’ve parked it on a steep hill and done my best at letting the air bleed out and didn’t fix the problem.
I read about the bad relay but my electric fan is coming on at 204 degrees and shutting back off at 195. Fan is running but not sure if it’s running at peak performance or not. To me it doesn’t sound like it’s running fast enough. My son says it sounds fine to him.
I managed to get a 20 minute ride out of it before the temp started climbing upwards of 220 degrees after bleeding the air as good as I can get it.
What’s the next likely culprit? Water pump maybe? Thermostat maybe?
I have an 2015 RZR1000 that’s had several problems from day one. I believe the dealership is responsible for most of the problems. The transmission has been pulled out of the vehicle 3 times. The RZR just started leaking a large amount of engine oil. It appears the oil is coming from between the engine and transmission. The source looks like it begins at the bottom of the head. I have zero engine or tranny mods. The car is bone stock. I was originally told by the dealer that the engine gets removed with the transmission. Now that there is an engine oil leak they are denying ever touching the engine. Does anyone know if the engine gets removed/loosened when the transmission is taken out of the vehicle? Any ideas on the oil leak?
I have an 2015 RZR1000 that’s had several problems from day one. I believe the dealership is responsible for most of the problems. The transmission has been pulled out of the vehicle 3 times. The RZR just started leaking a large amount of engine oil. It appears the oil is coming from between the engine and transmission. The source looks like it begins at the bottom of the head. I have zero engine or tranny mods. The car is bone stock. I was originally told by the dealer that the engine gets removed with the transmission. Now that there is an engine oil leak they are denying ever touching the engine. Does anyone know if the engine gets removed/loosened when the transmission is taken out of the vehicle? Any ideas on the oil leak?
Does anyone know if the TPS settings affect the mixture..especially at idle, or when letting completely off to return to idle ?
For instance, is a TPS setting of .690 richer or leaner than .735 ? I know it just measures the position of the butterfly, but that position should be regulating the airflow. Just don’t know which direction the number reads, or if it makes a difference overall.
