I want to put a duraclutch on my 2015 900s. My question is i read it keeps the belt from slipping. But what keeps the wetclutch part from slipping? I also heard duraclutchs atent good with big tires? And ive heard the complete opposite.

I have a 2011 Xp900 that needs the u-joints replaced on the prop shaft. All of them. So my questions are: Are all the u-joints the same size? And I have read on another forum(I searched this one but couldn’t come up with anything) that the precision 338 or 1501 will work for this application. I can look up the dimensions of both of them, but I’m having trouble finding the Polaris dimensions. The 338 and 1501 are both greaseable and are under 15$. Any hep would be awesome!
-Dan

2008 800 RZR:

I have Dalton clutch installed and many other mods including HMF full exhaust, PC5 tuner, Alba big bore, UMP air intake…..

The fuel pump pressure is correct. The problem is that my speeds are just not what they should be. Top speed is around 46-48 MPH. I’m running 29.5 terminators but I have friends that are running them as well and I cant keep up with them.

My question is: Could this simply be a matter of a belt slipping at top end. I have inspected it and there is no signs of threads coming off. I’m not sure what the sides would like like if it was glazed over. I do not notice any smells or smoke from the belt , but does that mean that it isnt slipping any? Could a mildly slipping belt cause reduced speeds?

Thanks
Rick

ok, so i had a transmission failure on a new-to-me rzr4, at first it thought it was the intermediate pinion shaft, then when that checked out i thought maybe the clutch or input shaft was broken.

so i pull the trans and cracked it open. the first thing i notices was the trans oil was pretty grey, so maybe water contamination then i bunch of bearing started coming out. so i dig in and find out the shift color is all janked up and the bearings were all from there. i also figure out there’s a large circlip that has been totally munched up.

thankfully all the gears look great, and even the actual bearings look and feel great, but then i go to order new parts and i notice on the diagram that there should be TWO circlips for that shift collar, but according to the carnage left in the case there was clearly only one circlip to begin with!!?!?

so i ask the PO if he ever had it rebuilt, or if the original owner ever had it rebuilt that he knows of…he says no. not sure i believe him but if he’s correct then wtf? has anyone ever heard of this happening from the factory? could this RZR really have survived 3500 miles with it missing? it did seem pretty normal to me until it failed and i have logged a few hundred miles in an 800 rzr4.

also while i have everything out, anyone have some recommendations of any other parts i should fix/replace?

ok, so i had a transmission failure on a new-to-me rzr4, at first it thought it was the intermediate pinion shaft, then when that checked out i thought maybe the clutch or input shaft was broken.

so i pull the trans and cracked it open. the first thing i notices was the trans oil was pretty grey, so maybe water contamination then i bunch of bearing started coming out. so i dig in and find out the shift color is all janked up and the bearings were all from there. i also figure out there’s a large circlip that has been totally munched up.

thankfully all the gears look great, and even the actual bearings look and feel great, but then i go to order new parts and i notice on the diagram that there should be TWO circlips for that shift collar, but according to the carnage left in the case there was clearly only one circlip to begin with!!?!?

so i ask the PO if he ever had it rebuilt, or if the original owner ever had it rebuilt that he knows of…he says no. not sure i believe him but if he’s correct then wtf? has anyone ever heard of this happening from the factory? could this RZR really have survived 3500 miles with it missing? it did seem pretty normal to me until it failed and i have logged a few hundred miles in an 800 rzr4.

also while i have everything out, anyone have some recommendations of any other parts i should fix/replace?

How important is it to put the copper washer on the engine oil drain plug? My Dad lost the one that was on his during recent oil change so we just put it back in without it.

K&N FILTERS OIL & CLEANING KIT

A six-step maintenance system designed to recharge any K&N Filtercharger and Air Filter. Restores air flow efficiency so your Filter charger performs like new! Includes: 8 oz. Squeeze Oil, 12 oz. Filter Cleaner and Service Decal

There’s ALWAYS a choice at www.blackrhinoperformance.com

UNI FILTER OIL & CLEANING KIT

Keep your UNI performance air filter running at maximum efficiency. Spray-on solution makes cleaning a breeze, and the spray-on oil allows your filter to catch even the finest dust particles.

K&N FILTERS OIL & CLEANING KIT

A six-step maintenance system designed to recharge any K&N Filtercharger and Air Filter. Restores air flow efficiency so your Filter charger performs like new! Includes: 8 oz. Squeeze Oil, 12 oz. Filter Cleaner and Service Decal

There’s ALWAYS a choice at www.blackrhinoperformance.com

UNI FILTER OIL & CLEANING KIT

Keep your UNI performance air filter running at maximum efficiency. Spray-on solution makes cleaning a breeze, and the spray-on oil allows your filter to catch even the finest dust particles.

I have a 2015 900 Trail and want to know if anyone has good info on how often the oil should be changed. The manual says every 100 hours or 1000 miles after the break-in period.

Can these machines really go 100 hours safely on an oil change, or how often are you guys changing oil? I don’t want this to be a war about which brand of oil to use…

I just installed a BMP +2mm big bore, BMP cam, BMP full exhaust and a PCV in my 2009 800. I can hit the rev limiter in park and neutral. But I can’t get the rpm’s past 5150 in high. I’ve got an EPI clutch kit with 66g weights, a Dalton adjustable kit comes with 67g weights as well as the stock weights. I’ve got all the different springs that come with the kits as well. No matter what combination of springs and weights I can’t hit the rev limiter in high or in low when I gear. I’ve checked the clutch alignment and it’s good as well, I had thought maybe it was riding out of alignment and that was causing the problem.

So…….anybody have any ideas of what else I can try. I need it working by Thursday night. Headed out muddin.