I finally got a chance to tear my engine down. It has 2900mi. It’s a 2013 rzr 800s. It is dead because the guy I bought it from sucked in water and didn’t want to mess with it. I was showing 53psi one cylinder and 82psi in the other cylinder of compression. The cylinder walls actually look pretty good. I have not done a leak test on the head yet but the two compression rings per piston are seized it feels like. Is it possible the water made them rust in place and that’s where compression loss is coming from? Crank counter balance shows some surface rust. I’m just wondering what all you think I should look for or what all I should replace. Also, should I rotate the crank at the clutch to bring the pistons up to pull them? I hope the rods aren’t bent based on what the pistons looked like against the cylinder but the crank bearings feel fine. What direction do you all think I should go to see what parts I need to get it up and running?

Thank you in advance!

Ok heres the deal…..I purchased a 2012 800. Its been having overheating issues that ive been battling with for a month or so now. I have tried EVERYTHING, from bleeding with Airlift/Lisle Funnel, Headgasket, TStat, and a bunch of other crap. Anyways, about the only thing I hadnt messed with was the radiator, and that was because the guy I bought it from had just purchased it prior to selling it to me. It is an aluminum radiator with both inlet and outlet on the same side (Scirocco Style). So I take it off and notice the tank is not split off in between the upper and lower outlets. Im not a cooling system expert, but shouldnt the tank be split off so that the inlet side NEEDS to pass through the core before coming out of the outlet side? Thanks in advance

Shaft Reverse 27T (stock is 29t)
323580
Shaft,Front ,output
3235631
Gear,46TStage 2 (Stock is 44T)
3235381
Sprocket,48T
3235632
Chain, silent
3235633

These are apparently the part numbers to "upgrade" your stock transmission to the Highlifter specs.

I installed this gear set in my 2014 XP4 1000, and got ZERO apparent gear reduction.
In fact I now have a 2 mph HIGHER TOP SPEED than I did with the stock gears in both Low Range as well as High (GPS TESTED)

Turner Cycle told me that their 32" gear reduction was the same ratio as the Highlifter. They also told me that their 32" gear reduction is a lower gear than the stock xp4 1000.

Something does not add up here.

I physically counted my stock gear teeth & Sprocket teeth.
I have a 29 tooth shaft
I have a 44 tooth sprocket
I have a 48 tooth gear
Those match up to what a stock 2 seat XP 1000 should have. (I guess both the 2 & 4 seat models use the same ratios?)

Why am I now able to go faster, not slower?
A gear reduction should slow me down, right?

I got a new Primary clutch at the same time as the "Highlifter" gear swap. The original one started to hang up on the belt, and not let go when coming to a stop. (Killing the engine)
The new primary was installed, and the Dirty Dawg clutch spring & Weights were re used.

Both before and after tests were used with the same GPS and recorded the max speed when hitting the stock rev limiter. (I think I saw 8,750 on the tachometer both times)

Any ideas?
Is the Highlifter gear reduction so minimal, that a "possibly" better performing Primary clutch could still give me a higher top speed at the same RPM???

I am running 32" Roctanes at 15 psi.

Before the gear swap
Low range 38.2 mph
High range 75.0 mph

After the Highlifter Gears
Low range 40.7 mph
high range 77.6 mph

Hey guys. I have no 4wd in my 08 rzr 800, it has a brand new niche sprague, armature plate and lots of power to the coil.*
My symbol comes up on my display but still no 4wd.
I’m going nuts here.

Any ideas??

Thanks

I just received a Super ATV hitch today and was curious about mounting this up. I can’t tell if the bolts themselves go through the plate and all the way through the tie rod’s to where I’m going to need to put it on a jack to remove the plate to mount the hitch or not?

Has anybody installed the hitch on the back? I’m hoping it’s as easy as taking the 4 bolts out then removing the plate and replacing with the new hitch plate.

Attached Thumbnails

 

I just received a Super ATV hitch today and was curious about mounting this up. I can’t tell if the bolts themselves go through the plate and all the way through the tie rod’s to where I’m going to need to put it on a jack to remove the plate to mount the hitch or not?

Has anybody installed the hitch on the back? I’m hoping it’s as easy as taking the 4 bolts out then removing the plate and replacing with the new hitch plate.

Attached Thumbnails

 

New 300m Pro Series Axles for Polaris RZR XP1000 & XP Turbo

ROCKFORD, IL. (September 1, 2015) – RCV Performance Products is introducing the new “Pro Series” axles for the Polaris RZR. The new axle is in addition to the existing “Ultimate” line of axles for Polaris machines. The new axles feature a plunging inboard CV with 300M internals, a 300M axle shaft, and RCV’s patented Spherical Sealing Technology CV boot on the outer, providing much greater resistance to punctures and tears than a rubber CV boot. A common failure in the Polaris RZR is the front outer CV. To address this, RCV’s outer CV is capable of angles up to 45 degrees to nearly eliminate the possibility of bind when the suspension is at full droop and full steering lock.

RCV Performance Products specializes in industry leading quality parts for countless motorsports applications. From Ultra4 race cars, Pro4 trucks, to trail Jeeps and Toyotas, and now UTVs. All products from RCV are 100% Made in the USA, and are strength tested in-house.

Sean Carlini, Engineer at RCV Performance, said, “We have been testing this new axle design for months in several different environments from sand dunes and open desert to tough rocky conditions and we are very pleased with the results. Our in-house tests have shown the axle to be more than twice as strong as OEM. Whether on the trail or in race conditions, we are confident that the Pro Series is strongest solution available.”

For information on the Pro Series axles please call us at 815-877-7473, email us at sales@rcvperformance.com, or visit us online at RCV Off-Road Performance Products – CV Joints, Axle Kits, Tools.

I changed the oil in the RZR over the weekend, and noticed yesterday my oil pressure considerably higher than normal.

When it starts up (cold), the pressure climbs to about 50psi at idle, but jumps to around 70 at 5000rpm. After it warms up, it stays at about 40-46psi while riding, and about 20-26 at idle.

It used to cold start at about 40-50 psi, but would not go above 50psi even if I revved it. Warm idle was about 15 psi.

I used (and have been using) Rotella T6 5w40 oil. The only thing I used different was the oil filter. This time I used NAPA Gold 1356. I typically use WIX 51356. This is the first time using the NAPA Gold filters.

I checked my oil pressure relief. I could not get it out of the hole, but I do know it slides up and down in the hole. I could crank the engine, and watch a bolt that I put in the hole slide up and down. So I know it at least works somewhat.

Anybody using the NAPA gold filters noticed an increase in pressure ? I’m not sure if they have some type of pressure valve in them ?

So much for everyone who said there was no changes to the 2016, the seats, rear axles, secondary clutch, and many other things I’m sure are all different.

So here’s my question, does anybody sell a clutch kit for the 2016 yet?

I have a 2015 xp1000 2 seater with 422 mikes on it and last night I noticed the clutch starting to jerk during engagement. It runs and drives fine after say 1 or 2 mph but while it’s trying to get moving it’s jerking like it’s going in and out of gear if that makes sense. In low or high range, not been under water and I haven’t ever smoked or slipped the belt. Any ideas what’s going on? Running 30" roctanes but there again have never smoked the belt. I don’t have the clutch cover off yet so can’t comment on the visual condition of either clutch or the belt.