I have both the ATV’s listed above. I LOOOVE LooneY Tuned exhaust so much, we got the same exhaust for both machines. The drivers towards these exhausts were:
1. Price is great
2. Sound is awesome
3. I was assured, no tuner was required for install.
The problem I am having is that both machines appear to run awesome in forward gears, whether low or hi, but for some reason, in reverse, whether stuck in mud and digging out, or pulling someone else out, both machines sputter/backfire/lack power.
Has anyone else noticed this with LTE?
They seem like great people, no harm there, but I imagine, that if power is lacking in reverse, I could be short in forward abilities also, even though its not blatantly obvious…
These machines cost a good bit, so I want to insure they are tuned [properly, but after being told I don’t need a tuner for a slip on, I am semi disappointed.
I have both the ATV’s listed above. I LOOOVE LooneY Tuned exhaust so much, we got the same exhaust for both machines. The drivers towards these exhausts were:
1. Price is great
2. Sound is awesome
3. I was assured, no tuner was required for install.
The problem I am having is that both machines appear to run awesome in forward gears, whether low or hi, but for some reason, in reverse, whether stuck in mud and digging out, or pulling someone else out, both machines sputter/backfire/lack power.
Has anyone else noticed this with LTE?
They seem like great people, no harm there, but I imagine, that if power is lacking in reverse, I could be short in forward abilities also, even though its not blatantly obvious…
These machines cost a good bit, so I want to insure they are tuned [properly, but after being told I don’t need a tuner for a slip on, I am semi disappointed.
Has anyone ever thought of putting a maverick primary clutch in a Renegade/Outlander? If so for the guys that have did you notice any difference in power and/or performance? Think about installing one in my renegade.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk, 2012 Renegade 800Xxc, HMF Exhaust, Highlifter OL2s, Fox Shox, ITP Wheels
Im new to the ATV world, but not to computer tuning or fixing vehicles. Former Nissan tech, as well as some prototype work.
Im trying to understand the gap between the early OBD I automotive tunes (very primative). Versus the ATV ECMs of 2008. And Carb tuning.
Where Im confused is that it seems that the fuel injected ATVs respond identical to a Carb’ed ATV. In the automotive tuning world, this is not the case.
An example being: Add exhaust, you need a tune. Add a new intake, you need a tune. The risks being that the change may cause a lean condition. On most automotive computers, adding these things will not effect anything because the MAP or MAF sensor will tell the computer what part of the fuel/timing map to read.
So my question for those that tune ATVs is this. Do the factory ECMs not have the ability to detect air volume/pressure (MAP sensor Im assuming), and based off of those readings adjust fuel/timing (based off of RPM/load).
Im struggling to understand why a modern ECM (such as the one from my 08 Outlander) can not seek the correct sector of the binary grid when a very small change in air is detected. I mean even the most basic 16×16 binary OBDI automotive map had the ability to adjust fuel and timing if additional air was introduced pre MAF/MAP sensor.
Or is it that by adding additional air, such as the 09 intake mod, makes the high load, high RPM sectors of the maps inadequate?
Looking at some of the power commander maps, they look very similar to OBDI maps that I used to tune.
Anyhow, not trying to start a "need a tune, not need a tune" discussion. I have a power commander already, just want to understand what drives these ECMs.
So my heads need to be rebuilt, and I have adult responsibilities to take care of before I can sink anymore money into this :th_smiliepissed: thing.
I bought a large plastic tub with a lid to seal. I assembled the motor with generous amounts assembly lube . My plan was to spray snowmobile fogging oil in and out and all over the motor and try to wrap in it plastic.
ok guys heres my set up. 2009 outlander 800. motor is stock. i have the dual LTE exhaust with a blinky box fuel controller. my afr is 12.5-13 through the entire rpm range. I have 28" tall kenda bear claw htrs. The secondary is a stm with a 40deg helix and looks like a silver spring. The primary is a cv tec with black 1017 spring and 3 2006 pucks and 3 2007 pucks. my engagement is around 2000rpm. from a stand still in high gear with good traction it will rev to 6800 then slowly climb to a max rpm of 7300. Is3 this right or should it go to 7300 and just hold that rpm throughout the acceleration? after 5 or 6 long pulls the primary temp was 195 deg and secondary was 140deg. I ride mostly trails and the odd water hole. not much heavy mud. thanks for any advice[emoji4]
Hi , got a 2012 800 outty xt-p, just in the process of fitting a pc-5 and a
looney tunes slip on.
The pc site has maps for 3 different slipons , no filter changes , and no other mods , just like mine.( not for looney toons)
Just asking , the difference if I say just used there fmf slip on map , verses , getting a custom tune , from the local quad shop thats quoted me around 250 us dollars.
I really dont mind getting it done , but will the custom map , really be that much different to a map , for another type of slip-on , fmf, hmf, leo vance etc etc.
Feel free to educate me.:th_smiliewoo:
I have a 2012 outty 1000 with snorkels (1.5" under pod 2" above) slip on exhaust, and stock air filter. Can I run this without a programmer?
I have read many many many post and discussions about this, and not found an exact answer. I know it will not run 100% power, and I know I won’t be getting the added power of the exhaust (not that a slip on adds a lot) but I just want it for the sound. I know that each motor is different, and that it’s not the same through the rpm range. I know the 09′ and up models run lean factory. And I know I’m giving it more volume of air and cooler air… But each one of the post I have read basically turn into an argument about how "yes you can" or "no you can’t" or "well yes you can, but not really but sometimes". So I’d like to avoid that this time. I’m not trying to duplicate other post about this, I just want an honest answer. Most of my riding consist of slow speeds with15-25 mph trail speeds between mud holes.
Has anyone run this set up successfully for a long period of time? I’d like to hear how it’s worked out.
