My 1000 has been sitting for 3 days. I went to get ready to ride and battery is dead. I put new battery in I had. The bike now stays on with out key even after 10 min. I am getting a communication fault and the bike has an e code. I’ve checked the sensor for tran and all fuses. Even made sure connection for exam was good. Any ideas.
Category Archives: Can-Am XMR
Xmr 1000 has power with out key
My 1000 has been sitting for 3 days. I went to get ready to ride and battery is dead. I put new battery in I had. The bike now stays on with out key even after 10 min. I am getting a communication fault and the bike has an e code. I’ve checked the sensor for tran and all fuses. Even made sure connection for exam was good. Any ideas.
’15 XMR 800 Rear Diff Fluid Confusion
The manual that came with my unit clearly calls for 250ml of 75w140 for the rear diff. I’m changing all fluids today and noticed that "250ml 75w90" is stamped on the rear diff, just above the fill bolt. Looking at other posts, everyone says to use 75w140 in the rear (75w140 is also used in the trans) and that’s what I’m going to do.
Anyone know why the manual says one thing but the diff is stamped, telling you to use something different?
H11 to H9 low beam headlight conversion
Was doing some research and saw a lot of peeps are doing this with cars that use the h11 low beam bulb. With the slight mod of the h9 bulb you can double your lumens. The xmr low beam bulb is an h11. I was wondering if anybody has done this and how has it worked for them.
Thanks
Lifts for 2015 XMR 800
So I been doing a bunch of reading up on lifts for the gen 2. I really don’t want a huge lift even though that SATV 6" is very tempting for the price. Just don’t want that much lift. And we’ll the Catvos 4" is just too much.
I’m really just looking for 1 to 2 inches and maybe having c fab or patv extend my rear arms so I can run a bigger tire when the time comes to replace them. And getting arched front arms to go with it.
Can I do a 1 to 2 inch lift without replacing the cv axles or having issues? Rode a 800 xmr with puck lift and rode like crap. Only had 1.5 inch more ground clearance too.
Thoughts , opinions or suggestions?
Anyone have thier ’16 XMR 1000 yet?
Just like the title says…. Has anyone picked up a 2016 XMR 1000 yet? Or, even a delivery/shipping date?
I’m gettin antsy!
2016 XMR order
Hi I’m new to posting on the forum but have been reading posts for a while as a guest. I’m contemplating getting a 2016 XMR 1000 ordered. For those of you that have already ordered/received either a 1000 or 850, what kind of price did you pay out the door? Just so I know I’m not going to be getting a bad deal. Thanks for any input.
XMR 1000 backup lights with KC Cyclone LEDs on weatherpack accessory connector
I saw a post on installing backup lights on Outlanders and wanted to do something to my XMR but didn’t like the lights on the OPs post. On my world wide witchhunt for tires I wound up in a clickhole. These are really cool little lights and roughly $25 each on Amazon. There is about $20 more in parts since I didn’t have wire.
One thing I will mention from the other post was a discussion of hooking up a contact switch to activate the lights when you put the ATV in reverse. This is a personal preference and like others, I wanted mine on a separate switch to be able to turn them on and off at will. Of course you need to purchase the appropriate switch for which install you choose to do. I contemplated installing the contact switch, but you have to rig up a mounting point to attach the contact relay. I had a gravity check and murphy proceeded place my switch dead middle of the engine and skid plate. After 30minutes of dicking around trying to retrieve my switch, I was thoroughly convinced the reverse contact was overrated!
Take your power from the weatherpack connector under the right side plastics beneath the seat. This is intended to power the rear heated handgrips, visor and whatever other accessories. There is also a power connector under the front near the gauge cluster. It’s white with red and black wires going in nothing coming out. Have yet to determined what the connector is but will add it later to this post when I do. Both connectors are intended for accessories and are already on a relay. The rear connector works with the key in light on or off position.
Here are the specs on each light:
KC Cyclone LEDs Cyclone LEDs – Compact and Versatile Universal Dome LED Lighting | Under the hood and wheel well LED lighting
LED Accessory Light
Lens colors: Clear, Diffused, Amber, Red, Blue, Green
Amp draw according to KC tech support is .4A@12V
5w
1100 Raw Lumens
Throw according to KC tech 15′ clear 7.5′ diffused
2.2" Wide x .53" Deep
Runs on 6v – 16v
Attaches via Dzeus Clip or Other Hardware
IP 68 Rated Waterproof
Protected against RFI/EMC Interference
Parts required: 3/8" wire loom, spool each of red & black 16/18 ga wire (light pig tail is 18ga), zip ties, heat shrink, silicone caulk, crimp connectors or solder gun, switch (I didn’t go waterproof but will upgrade later), stainless counter sink machine screw 2 each w/ nylock nuts, 2 ea weatherpack terminals male (you only need the terminals and I’d suggest spares)
Tools required: wire strippers, diagonal cutters to cut zip ties, heat gun, crimper, drill, wrench 10mm for reflector as appropriate for machine screws, weatherpack crimper only if not soldering, scissors or box cutter, small hands and patience.
Step 1 grab adult beverage (you’re gonna need this)
Step 2 consume beverage before removing XMR engine cover plastics on right side of ATV
Step 3 vent equivalent to 3 months frustration while attempting to remove plastics. You may need another beverage.
Now you can proceed. :th_smiliethumbsup:
Remove the rear reflectors – they have a 10mm nylock nut, remove nut then push bolt out of the hole.
Drill out the reflector mount hole or don’t depending on how you decide to mount the cyclone. Drill a small hole on bottom of reflector recess to run light wire through for connecting to wire loom.
Mount cyclones by running wires through bottom hole and machine screw through center of cyclone
Install you black and red wire in the wire loom
Dry fit your wire loom pieces – you will have to splice one of the lights into the loom. 1 piece from weatherpack to console for switch. 2nd piece from switch to right light and 3rd piece from left light into suitable splice location on the loom. I spliced under the passenger seat.
Install the 3 pieces of loom, make the 2nd light splice and connect to both lights. Heat shrink & silicone as you like.
Install switch in the console plastic located above the airbox filters. On the back you will see pre-marked locations to drill or cut for switch install.
Connect loom from lights to switch. Connect loom from switch to weatherpack to the switch. At this point I did check my connections for continuity.
On the right side of the ATV about 2/3 way back below seat look for a silver post which has 3 or 4 electrical connectors on it. on the back side you will find the weatherpack connector.
Remove the weather pack connector by sliding it towards the front of the ATV. It’s held on by a tension clip. Disconnect the removable half of the weatherpack, remove and trim green plugs with scissors or box cutter to expose the holes for the wire to go through. Attach male weatherpack terminals to wire (crimp or solder). Insert terminals into weather pack (You may want to purchase the $3 terminal removal tool in case you have issues with the terminals). This link pretty much explains it:
Tips on how to install Weatherpack electrical connectors terminals and seals
Once your wires and terminals are installed, reconnect the two halves of the weatherpack and reinstall it on the post.
Use 5lbs of zip ties trim and button up the plastics.
Hopefully you now have a working set up backup lights.
If you want the entire weather pack: Accel 78412 "2 pin connector" I thin they are $9 or so on Amazon.
XMR 1000 backup lights with KC Cyclone LEDs on weatherpack accessory connector
I saw a post on installing backup lights on Outlanders and wanted to do something to my XMR but didn’t like the lights on the OPs post. On my world wide witchhunt for tires I wound up in a clickhole. These are really cool little lights and roughly $25 each on Amazon. There is about $20 more in parts since I didn’t have wire.
One thing I will mention from the other post was a discussion of hooking up a contact switch to activate the lights when you put the ATV in reverse. This is a personal preference and like others, I wanted mine on a separate switch to be able to turn them on and off at will. Of course you need to purchase the appropriate switch for which install you choose to do. I contemplated installing the contact switch, but you have to rig up a mounting point to attach the contact relay. I had a gravity check and murphy proceeded place my switch dead middle of the engine and skid plate. After 30minutes of dicking around trying to retrieve my switch, I was thoroughly convinced the reverse contact was overrated!
Take your power from the weatherpack connector under the right side plastics beneath the seat. This is intended to power the rear heated handgrips, visor and whatever other accessories. There is also a power connector under the front near the gauge cluster. It’s white with red and black wires going in nothing coming out. Have yet to determined what the connector is but will add it later to this post when I do. Both connectors are intended for accessories and are already on a relay. The rear connector works with the key in light on or off position.
Here are the specs on each light:
KC Cyclone LEDs Cyclone LEDs – Compact and Versatile Universal Dome LED Lighting | Under the hood and wheel well LED lighting
LED Accessory Light
Lens colors: Clear, Diffused, Amber, Red, Blue, Green
Amp draw according to KC tech support is .4A@12V
5w
1100 Raw Lumens
Throw according to KC tech 15′ clear 7.5′ diffused
2.2" Wide x .53" Deep
Runs on 6v – 16v
Attaches via Dzeus Clip or Other Hardware
IP 68 Rated Waterproof
Protected against RFI/EMC Interference
Parts required: 3/8" wire loom, spool each of red & black 16/18 ga wire (light pig tail is 18ga), zip ties, heat shrink, silicone caulk, crimp connectors or solder gun, switch (I didn’t go waterproof but will upgrade later), stainless counter sink machine screw 2 each w/ nylock nuts, 2 ea weatherpack terminals male (you only need the terminals and I’d suggest spares)
Tools required: wire strippers, diagonal cutters to cut zip ties, heat gun, crimper, drill, wrench 10mm for reflector as appropriate for machine screws, weatherpack crimper only if not soldering, scissors or box cutter, small hands and patience.
Step 1 grab adult beverage (you’re gonna need this)
Step 2 consume beverage before removing XMR engine cover plastics on right side of ATV
Step 3 vent equivalent to 3 months frustration while attempting to remove plastics. You may need another beverage.
Now you can proceed. :th_smiliethumbsup:
Remove the rear reflectors – they have a 10mm nylock nut, remove nut then push bolt out of the hole.
Drill out the reflector mount hole or don’t depending on how you decide to mount the cyclone. Drill a small hole on bottom of reflector recess to run light wire through for connecting to wire loom.
Mount cyclones by running wires through bottom hole and machine screw through center of cyclone
Install you black and red wire in the wire loom
Dry fit your wire loom pieces – you will have to splice one of the lights into the loom. 1 piece from weatherpack to console for switch. 2nd piece from switch to right light and 3rd piece from left light into suitable splice location on the loom. I spliced under the passenger seat.
Install the 3 pieces of loom, make the 2nd light splice and connect to both lights. Heat shrink & silicone as you like.
Install switch in the console plastic located above the airbox filters. On the back you will see pre-marked locations to drill or cut for switch install.
Connect loom from lights to switch. Connect loom from switch to weatherpack to the switch. At this point I did check my connections for continuity.
On the right side of the ATV about 2/3 way back below seat look for a silver post which has 3 or 4 electrical connectors on it. on the back side you will find the weatherpack connector.
Remove the weather pack connector by sliding it towards the front of the ATV. It’s held on by a tension clip. Disconnect the removable half of the weatherpack, remove and trim green plugs with scissors or box cutter to expose the holes for the wire to go through. Attach male weatherpack terminals to wire (crimp or solder). Insert terminals into weather pack (You may want to purchase the $3 terminal removal tool in case you have issues with the terminals). This link pretty much explains it:
Tips on how to install Weatherpack electrical connectors terminals and seals
Once your wires and terminals are installed, reconnect the two halves of the weatherpack and reinstall it on the post.
Use 5lbs of zip ties trim and button up the plastics.
Hopefully you now have a working set up backup lights.
If you want the entire weather pack: Accel 78412 "2 pin connector" I thin they are $9 or so on Amazon.
2013 / 2014 XMR 1000 – add rear passenger seat
First a big thank you to Poseidon who went down the path before me and figured this out. For those looking to add a seat to to their 2013/14 XMR 1000, all you need to do is purchase the passenger seat kit, the 4 mounting bolts, nylock nuts and spacers. I know you can purchase from your dealer, on Ebay and I managed to find Powersportswarehouse. Currently they list the rear seat kit for $442.49 (plus $20 for shipping to my location) This is a fair cost savings as compared to the $579 (+8% sales tax where I live) listed in the CanAm accessory catalog.
Outlander MAX Passenger Seat Kit
Outlander MAX 2013-2014 (except with 400 engine) (G2)
715002032
Torx Screw M6 X 45 $1.47
250000215
Hex. Flanged Nut M6 $1.05
233061414
Spacer $4.99
517305142
I was in a rush to order the seat and forgot the mounting studs so today I engineered a workaround. $1.47 for 4 each M6x45 bolts from the hardware store since Tractor Supply only had x40 and x50 length bolts. $1.39 for 4 nylock nuts and $2.58 for 2 each 3/8×2" Spring Pins(from Tractor Supply).
Cut the pins to 1.280" length and they need to be roughly .380" O.D. The install holes on your frame are 6mm. You need a spacer with a 6mm hole otherwise you will have to drill the frame if you use larger bolts. Why CanAm didn’t just use a hardened bolt here instead of a bolt and sleeve is beyond me. :th_smiliefrustrated
Seat was delivered unassembled, with bottom, back, 2 springs, 2 bolts to attach back and 8 bolts to re / attach the support plate. The instructions are simple. Remove the support plate & attachment plate from the seat bottom. There are two pieces of edge protection rubber to remove as well.
Install the springs on the posts of the attach plate, insert the seat back into the plate and align spring posts on the back with springs. It helps to have 4 hands for this. While holding in place insert two mounting bolts to secure the seat back. Re-Install the support plate using the provided 4 screws & 4 screws + nuts. Re-attach the mount plate to the seat bottom.
Next remove your XMR seat and baby Linq storage box if you have it installed. Remove the 4 torx screws and 2 push pins holding the cover in place beneath the baby Linq box. Hold the spacer in place, run the bolt through the two mounting holes and spacer then secure with nylock nut. Repeat 3 times then install your seat.:cool:
The first pic is of the mounting points on the ATV. The second is a bottom shot of the seat mounting hardware.
