So I just got around to cleaning my machine after a long 3 days of riding. As I’m cleaning it I notice the where the rear axles meet in the center…the right one look like it’s coming out a bit.
I’m not sure if thats normal or there’s supposed to be play in there or not…it looks strange to me so can someone hopefully just tell me I’m anal and that way I can relax?
2011 Outlander 800R XT has never given me any non-selfinflicted trouble till now. Always stored indoors, usually on battery tender Jr. sometimes I go to start it and the green button does nothing. battery is tip top shape so it’s not voltage. I hear the fuel pump so i don’t believe it’s that either.
Someone some where on here said something about cleaning the contacts because that’s what’s going on.
I have been having a clicking noise from the rear of my outlander and is getting worse. I am convinced that it is one of my cv joints but cant pinpoint which one. So I popped out both rear axles ,but both seem fine. Is there a way to determine which one is faulty without pulling the boots off and inspecting the joints.
Hello all, I am new the forum and figured this is the best place to get advise. I have looked around and did not find an exact example of what I have going on.
I was driving down the road at 10mph and started with a rattle sound from the engine area then just locked up. I took the clutch cover off and everything looked normal. I can rotate the clutch clockwise roughly one rotation then it stops and cant move it either directions. If i hit the starter button it will rotate about one turn counter clockwise and stops dead.
To anyone who may be wondering the DBO500 does fit perfectly well on the 500L model. I am very pleased with the results as everyone knows of the dreaded 500 bottom end. I am still running the stock tires/rims yet and i tried the recommended spacer/secondary spring combination and it helped. i could pick her up in low a little bit easier. My brother has his own 500L and it was still a pretty close race between the two, he noted he liked how mine seemed to require less throttle while climbing hills and seemed a bit more peppy in short burst through the woods. I ended up being pretty bored one day after work and was only really planning on putting the primary spring in after i had worn out the stock tires and upgraded to some taller, more aggressive ones. I swapped the spacer/stocker out for the dalton spring, buttoned her up and i was very impressed with the result it did with stock tires. I can be sitting straight up in a normal seating position and punch it in low and it will come right up on me. I can pop her up in high after with little effort. It runs on average 350-500 rpms higher than stock(in comparison to my brothers) at all times and engages at roughly 2300 rpm (vs 1700-1800). It seems to always be in its powerband now and is much snappier with hardly any delay when going to WOT. My brother is 320lbs and i am 240lbs and even if we swap machines the result is the same. Mine wins off the line, mine slowly gets away from his.Top speed was not affected which really surprised me, stock on a long run it would play around 7200rpm, now it hits 7500 and stays theres until i let off. The engine breaking is greatly improved, which i am a huge fan of ever since my first 800. Its almost in the ballpark of the 800 but doesnt have quite the hold when going down a steep one in 4wd low. Overall i paid $60 and its a completely different machine then before. I commend Dalton for a great product, and those of you who decided to read this whole long post haha.
Anyone ever have there 1000 come out of gear when mudding low 2wd that is. Mine did on 2wd last weekend in the pit. Did not have the issue in 4wd though. Everything is fine but was wondering why it happened. It’s a new machine.
Hey everyone
I see most people that use Amsoil are running 0w-40 in the engine but I also see most that do that are living in cold climates, I guess my question is since I live in a warm climate (GA) is there any issue using 5w-50 ???? and does it really matter?
