Will it hurt anything to take a pressure washer to the inside of my primary??? As mentioned before, I’m having some issues with my clutch or my one way bearing but it’s only got 1000 hours on the bike. I doubt the bearing needs to be greased. I think it’s either got some dust build up or perhaps some bits of the belt (from the wear groove on the inside of the belt) stuck in places that are keeping things from moving as freely as they should. I sprayed it out with air and it’s shifting better but it’s still getting stuck in gear on me.
So, can I safely take a pressure washer to the primary??? I don’t have the special tools needed to remove the one way bearing…or to mess with the clutch. I really cannot afford to take this thing into the dealer if it’s something as simple as belt dust that could be pressure washed out. Thanks!
2014 outlander 800xt had to replace steering stem and handle bars do to a rollover every thing eles was fine. Now when i have it turned all the way to the right they seem lose and when turned to the left they want to kick back when I’m driving and not moving. It drives straight when the handle bars are straight. Now i have heard the the power steering pump may have to be reset is that true or is something else and if it is can i do that my self or does a dealer have too.thanks in advance
I recently picked up a 04 outlander XT 400 with the decompression weight sticking through the valve cover. I removed the broken weight and related parts and cleaned a bunch of aluminum shavings out of the oil filter housing and oil pump pick up housing and screen. (If you must make this repair, I strongly recommend taking the time to lift the engine and cleaning the oil pump pickup screen! There was a ton of shavings in there and the screen was about a 1/3rd blocked.)
Last night I reassembled it and started it for the first time. It runs perfectly with the exception of timing chain noise. The tensioner has no spring pressure against it however it is in contact with the guide and the guide is in contact with the chain. The guide on the back side of the chain is not in contact with the chain. The top of this guide is about a 1/8" away from the chain. I’m thinking this guide is cracked near where it mounts. I cant see that far down in the engine. It feels "floppy" for lack of a better word. I did find a piece of the decompression weight between the chain and the guide when I pulled the cover.
My questions are….
1) What is the proper chain tension adjusting procedure?
2) Does the head have to come off to replace the guides?
(I have read that head removal is required & I have read that it can be replaced with out removing the head).
3) How are the timing marks aligned? I assume the cam marks get lined up to the head surface at the valve cover flange. Do you use marks on the flywheel or is there a special tool that engages with the flywheel through a hole in the case to align the crank to TDC?
4) What are the torque specs for the head, cam gear, primary clutch, and any other components that must be removed for this repair?
Hey guys so I recently replaced the cv boot and trailing arm bushings on the 2007 can am outlander 800. I started it today after I finished up and it started but I had to mess with the key a bit. (Turn it too off and on a few times). I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. I put it in gear and it wouldn’t move. Messed with it for a bit put it in all the gears and revved it and it just acted like it was in neutral. I then shut it off and turn it back on and it ran for about 10 seconds then died. Now when I turn the key there is no power nothing. When I parked it in the garage it shifted fine. I’m stumped any help would be appreciated. :th_smiliefrustrated
Anyone know where this is? I found the compressor, but can’t seem to find the intake. I don’t want to take anything apart just yet, only had it 3 days! Lol.
I wanted to see what everyones opinions are on who makes a really good set of replacement pads for a 2015 1000 CC Outlander Max XT-P.
I’ve been doing some back reading on the forum and
RACE-DRIVEN SEVERE DUTY SINTERED BRAKE PADS seem to come up the most. Are these still considered to be the best option or has anyone found a better set ?
