I have a 2012 650…..and lately i have been getting engine light coming and on and a message saying "check dps"….and the dps stops working.
This only seems to happen after I’ve been rippin for at least 20 mins.
If i stop for a few mins and shut her down it’ll go away temporarily…but usually comes back. I have also seen it affect my speedometer……..making it go all wonky……or not even work.
This seems to be a electrical problem of some sort…………cause the DPS does works fine when it is working…………and the fact my speedometer is sometimes going all wonky as well…….hhmmmm
Any advice is greatly appreciated…..and i know i may need to take her to the dealer……:sad:
I have a 2012 650…..and lately i have been getting engine light coming and on and a message saying "check dps"….and the dps stops working.
This only seems to happen after I’ve been rippin for at least 20 mins.
If i stop for a few mins and shut her down it’ll go away temporarily…but usually comes back. I have also seen it affect my speedometer……..making it go all wonky……or not even work.
This seems to be a electrical problem of some sort…………cause the DPS does works fine when it is working…………and the fact my speedometer is sometimes going all wonky as well…….hhmmmm
Any advice is greatly appreciated…..and i know i may need to take her to the dealer……:sad:
I am gathering plastics to replace damage that’s bothering me on my outie from when I rolled it. I am on the can-am site looking at the genuine parts and on the plastics, each color of each part says "europe" "international" and "north america". What is the difference?? I only ask because there is one part I need that is not available in north america in my color.
A bunch of us hit the trail today. It was the first time out for me on the Outlander 400 after purchasing it not running. The Orv trail starts 50 yards from my back yard so my house tends to be the gathering place for our trail rides.
7 of us left. 4 came back under their own power. 1st one down was Nate and his Kawasaki Prairie 400. We were about 10 miles int the ride when his speedometer stopped working. He didn’t stop to check into it right away but when he did we had issues. Something hit the speedometer sending unit braking it off of the rear differential. We had gone through more then 1 swamp and you guessed it. The diff was full of swamp water. We drained the water, filled the diff with engine oil (the only oil any of us had) and zip tied the cable back in. Who needs duct tape when you have zip ties!
Next one down was about 10 miles later. Collin lost his brakes, went off the trail and hit a bunch of poplar whips as he went off a 9 foot drop. The poplars flipped him and the bike. He was ok other than being bruised a bit. His Dad however was a bit excited. He was in the side by side right behind him. The old 250 Kawasaki 4×2 he was on has cable drum brakes. The cable broke. We adjusted up the foot pedal cable so it worked the rear better and he rode on. Just much slower.
John (Collins dad) was the next one down. An iron oar rock punctured a rear tire on his side by side. His day was done. He called home for a truck and trailer.
The rest of us rode on, including young Collin. We went to the top of a bluff and enjoyed the view. At this point we took pictures. (This little bit of info will come back to haunt us later). We headed home and made it about 35 miles round trip so far when my Outlander speedometer stopped working along with all the dash lights coming on. I shut off my headlights and the dash lights went out and the speedo came back. Nice. my battery is going dead. I made it about 3 more miles and the fire went out. I got pulled home. a 42 mile round trip. At this point my wife realizes she set her phone on the back of her bike when she was done taking pictures on that bluff. Yep she, her dad, and Nate rode all the way back and found it. They put on another 40 miles round trip, and yes, They found the phone right where she had parked her bike.
All in all it was a fun ride. I was bummed that my Can-Am had problems but I kind of expected it. After all I did buy it not running. I tested the charging issue already. I need a voltage regulator/ rectifier. Other than that she ran like a top. I can’t wait to fix it and put some more miles on it. I’ll pick up a battery too. This one looks to be original. the date code on it is ’04 after all.
Hey thanks for checking my post out i have a 2012 can am xmr 800 and the fuel is running very rich when i hit the ignition the bike wont turn over onless i hit the gas a little, even then it has trouble it used to idle at a high rpm yesterday and it stopped doing that now its just the not starting im drawing a blank on this one anyone who can help id greatly appreciate it.:th_smiliepullhair:
I was channel surfing today and saw these. Just curious if anyone has used the 3BR waterproof USB port? The manufacturers website is down at the moment but I put a link to one on another site below. They even have rubber covers to "waterproof" the USB end of your cable.
I have a 2013 outlander 650 and I have to wiggle the key to get it to start can I replace the switch without the dealer or is the key programmed to the switch as well as the computer? Also is there a way to just take the chip reader off and just use the switch like a regular switch? It still works just doesn’t read the key. Also its not the key I’ve tried them both.
Last weekend I went for a ride and wound up stuck in a mud hole. I freewheeled my winch out, hooked up to a tree and tried to get out. The winch pulled me maybe 3 feet and died. No in or out. Called a few friends, got out and made it home. I finally got to troubleshooting it today and cannot figure out what ails it. I am hoping someone here can guide me. I breezed thru some posts here and tried banging on it, no go. I took the soleniod apart to check for anything burnt, nothing. I have continunity between the switch leads. I also have continunity between the blue and yellow winch leads. Reconnected everything and tested voltage.
This is what I have so far:
I have 12v at both the bar switch and remote, in and out, those seem fine.
At the solenoid I have:
Red/BLK-13v
Red/Blue-13v
Red/Yel-13v
Blue/Blk-0v
Yel/Blk-0v
When I push the switches, I get this for both in and out:
Red/Blk-0v
R-Yel-0v
R-Blue-0v
Blue/Blk-0v
Y/Blk-0v
Any insight? Im stuck.
Thanks for help in advance.
Oh, I should mention, it is a Warn RT30 winch and this was the very first time I have had to use it. Needless to say I am not impressed.
