I’ve been out riding, and several times now my machine (see signature) won’t start after riding for an hour or so. Just goes “click, click” when I turn the key. Sometimes if I just give it a minute it will start. Other times if I wiggle it in gear it will start. It happened when we got back to camp this weekend after riding high speed for an hour. Just wouldn’t start. Gave it a rest for over an hour and it fired right up. One time, a couple of months ago or so we opened it up and gave the starter a ‘rap’ with a hammer (light tap). Started right up. (this could have been coincidental)
Don’t know if the problem is electronic (computer) related or the starter (flat spot) or something else. Seems to happen when we are up in elevation but this weekend, camp wasn’t that high. This is a 2014 unit with only 700 miles on it and 70 hrs.
Anybody have any experience on changing the seal and the wear ring. . I know seals are to be pressed in not hammered but it might be a little difficult to do with the diff in the machine. Also what is the best way to remove the wear ring. The seal looks like it is leaking around the outside, not where the rubber contacts the shaft. Hard to believe two years old and never really been in mud or water , its leaking. Had a king quad 9 years and never ever leaked anywhere. Also trying to find a a manual online, any recommendations.
Anybody have any experience on changing the seal and the wear ring. . I know seals are to be pressed in not hammered but it might be a little difficult to do with the diff in the machine. Also what is the best way to remove the wear ring. The seal looks like it is leaking around the outside, not where the rubber contacts the shaft. Hard to believe two years old and never really been in mud or water , its leaking. Had a king quad 9 years and never ever leaked anywhere. Also trying to find a a manual online, any recommendations.
Hi ever one I am new to this forum and I need advice. Last year my 83 year old father bought a new Can Am Outlander 500 to go riding with me. The dealer that he bought his machine from told him he had to get his scheduled maintance done from them to keep the extended warranty intact. Last week he brought his machine in for the second scheduled maintance and they told him his front brakes are shot and it is leaking fluid from both the front and rear drive shaft seals. The machine has about 1000 miles and it was purchased about a year ago. MY Father does not abuse this machine. My question is is this normal? And is it true that Can Am will not warranty the seals? Or are they trying to take advantage of my Father? Sorry for the long post and any advice is welcome.
I’ve read quite a lot about the engine heat these Can Ams put out and I was wondering if this might not be a nice thing for those of us who live in cold, snowy places? I live in Alaska and I’m hoping mine will help keep me warm. Has this been your experience?
I am wanting to fit mud flaps to my 2 week old L450 (see post L450 vs TRX420FW) because they do not come as standard!!!!
To fit the mud flaps I intend to remove the tail light and side reflector assembly and fit the new flaps in it’s place. I have no need for the light and reflectors as the machine is only for farm use so they will not be re-fitted.
However, I have already struck a problem…..I can’t see how to remove the tail light lens or assembly.
Yes, I know…..should be fairly basic and some might say "if you can’t do this, then don’t attempt anything more complicated".
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
I’ve Been wanting to try some 1" spacers on my max for a while, but didn’t want to spend a couple hundred bucks to find out I didn’t like the feel of them so .I made a few pairs for myself and a few friends .
Here are the specs.
Bolt pattern 4x136mm by 4x136mm
6061 T6 billet Aluminum.
0.406 clearance holes
60 degree conical seats
Studs are M10x1.25 ( factory thread pitch )
Studs are Grade 10.9 and fully threaded . ( Not pressed )
Front/back Registers match factory beadlock to help distribute weight to wheel hub.
So far I’m really happy with them and I’m really happy I decided to make my own especially with the problems some people seem to have the findings spacers for their machine.
Question is tho, is there anything on the design you think I might have overlooked or that you think should be changed ?
I’m a bit of a perfectionist and any input you have is appreciated.
I’ve Been wanting to try some 1" spacers on my max for a while, but didn’t want to spend a couple hundred bucks to find out I didn’t like the feel of them so .I made a few pairs for myself and a few friends .
Here are the specs.
Bolt pattern 4x136mm by 4x136mm
6061 T6 billet Aluminum.
0.406 clearance holes
60 degree conical seats
Studs are M10x1.25 ( factory thread pitch )
Studs are Grade 10.9 and fully threaded . ( Not pressed )
Front/back Registers match factory beadlock to help distribute weight to wheel hub.
So far I’m really happy with them and I’m really happy I decided to make my own especially with the problems some people seem to have the findings spacers for their machine.
Question is tho, is there anything on the design you think I might have overlooked or that you think should be changed ?
I’m a bit of a perfectionist and any input you have is appreciated.
