I have only had my 2012 Outlander 800 a few weeks and there seems to be an auto shut off feature that kills the power to the 12 volt output when the machine is not running. I can only operate a stereo, pump, etc for about 10 – 15 minutes after switching it to the auxiliary position, and then it will shut the equipment off. Lights and computer remains on, but the machine will not start or power equipment through auxiliary until the computer is reset.

I apologize if I’m missing a thread on this topic, but I have not found anything yet related to my issue. If it is an auto shut off feature, I would like to know if there is a way to bypass it? Any help, will be greatly appreciated.

I am thinking of adding a new clutch kit to my Outlander 650 XT-P. I have 27 inch Silverbacks on there right now. so far that is the only thing that has been added besides a Gates G-Force belt(flat spotted the other one). I ride mostly up in Coal Creek and Brimstone and not to much in the mud. Anyone have advice on which kit to get? Thanks for y’alls help!!!

Sorry about the long ramblings. Didn’t realize it was going to get this long.

My main riding is trail and almost always into the mountains. But when there is a mud hole I am drawn towards it. Lol. I don’t know why but the machine just wants to go there!!! Although there are days where we see NO mud at all. I also do a lot of technical riding on rock and some VERY steep hills both up and down. LOVE my engine brake!!!!!! I feel the engine brake is the biggest PLUS on my machine also the best safety feature. I’m always spouting off about it to my fellow non Canam riders.

I don’t care for high speed—although my friends all want to race against the 1000. There are some roads we will “blast” down but I am usually the last one in the group, as I don’t like the high speed. They will go 50 or 60+ mph and I prefer to stay at 40 or less although I will go faster on real good roads.

I’ve only put about 70 miles on this bike since I have had it as it was parked for the winter and bought it late last fall. Trail riding and of course some mud. Still getting used to the throttle response compared to my 400 Outlander I used to ride. This bike is quick and snakey/slippery on everything (snow, mud, gravel roads) I haven’t ridden this bike with the stock tires as the 28” Mega Mayhems were put on before it left the dealership. I’m just now getting a set of rims to put the stock tires onto so I can ride it with them for comparison (and my rock climbing days).

I assume the Mayhem heavy tires are robbing some of my bottom end power. I thought with the 1000 a wheelie would still be fairly easy. Not with the Mayhems. Maybe with the stock tires? I’m aware with the Max that the longer wheelbase would make it a little harder but I figured it would still be possible especially as the Mayhems would give me more/better traction. Don’t get me wrong I don’t want to be doing wheelies all day long but thought it would be at least possible. Am I correct in assuming the 28” tires are robbing bottom end power? Or do I need a clutch mod?

I THINK I NEED A CLUTCH MOD OF SOME SORT

Been reading for hours between the Dalton DBO 1000R and the VFJ Primary Clutch Replacement. Both sites say I won’t need the secondary clutch springs etc.

Both of these scenarios report very positive results. Although the VFJ will give more performance benefits it is also 2.5+ times the cost. Price could be offset some if I sell the stock primary clutch.

The VFJ reports that the engine braking below 2 mph in low range kicks into neutral and you have to ‘blip’ the throttle to get it to kick in again. This scares the hell out of me!!!!!! as there is a hill that if I did that I would be in a VERY serious situation. This specific hill is the WORST hill we go up and down and we use 4×4 LOW range with brakes to crawl down and weave around and over helmet sized boulders. I don’t need the tranny to go into neutral at any time. This is my biggest drawback on this unit and probably the only thing (besides $) holding me back from buying it. Now I only go down this worst hill every couple of years. But there are other situations where I LOVE the engine braking and use it the same way… just not as long and dangerous as “pucker hill”. Could easily get into trouble elsewhere too.

The Dalton DBO 1000R has some very good reports and reviews. People are real happy with it and are pleased with the performance. Although I have seen a few that say they have this but are saving up for a primary clutch replacement in the future. I think these are the serious mudders that will also do the secondary replacement in most cases.
　
I think because of the low speed neutral problem I am leaning towards the Dalton kit but not sure if it will do all I hope it will. One question I can’t seem to find the answer to is how is this kit for very low speed/technical riding? Does it allow for very slow rock climbing?

I know there are a lot of people on this site with lots of great knowledge about this topic as THIS is where I did most of my reading. Any inspiration, thoughts, guidance or input here would be appreciated.

Thanks for letting me voice my thoughts here. phew…. glad that’s over…my fingers are sore. Quad details are in my signature

shmoky

TFI GEN 2

Is this the simplest way to go? I am looking for a controller for dumbies so to speak. Just want to put a slip on exhaust and go. Will I need to adjust anything with this one or is it setup perfectly for just a slip on? Just looking for better rumble no so much performance. 1000 XT has plenty of power for me already.

Thanks!

Took the xmr out on saturday, 16 hrs on the clock. While riding down the trail it gets real bumpy. I was doing prob 6mph in low n every bump i hit i can hear the belt. Its not a sliping sound but it would make a short whine. As if it was coming under load for a sec then off. I was steady with the throttle. I didnt knotice any issues and inspected the belt after ward n it looks new. My guess was its the belting making noise coming under load and off as the bike was bouncing around but i just want to make sure.

So I noticed the throttle limiter screw was set to about 1/8 " from the dealer. I read somewhere in the owners manual that " performance may not reach maximum until break in complete" or something to that effect.
I’m not yet at the 10 hr mark.
Wondering if they pull the limiter screw out as part of the 10 hr service to reinforce that statement…
What do you all think??

I am looking to get a slip on and know it is recommended to also have a programmer. I am by far not even close to being a mechanic. Can a rookie handle this? Can you buy these plug and go? Thanks guys.

Has anyone got the LinQ base kit for the 2015 L Max yet? I can’t find a single pic online of what it looks like.

Thanks

I`ve searched the forum and found a few similar problems but I`m a newbie so I`d liked to post my exact problem since it is quite frustrating.

I have a 2006 CANAM 400 XT

I periodically get a bad clunking from my front left wheel. It is bad enough that you can feel it in the steering. It feels like a binding almost like the tire treads are hitting on the frame or gear is binding. Once it starts it seems to keep occurring. But it is not consistent. It seemed to be fine on flat hard terrain like a dirt road. I noticed some grease on universal joint boot so brought it to the dealer. Dealer said UV joints where worn and replaced both front axles. Not cheap!

Well it seemed ok for a bit and then the same exact problem started occurring again. Of course I`m concerned because both axles were replaced by the dealer but the problem I reported is clearly not solved. I brought it back and unfortunately the dealer found no fault since they could not reproduce the problem.

Recently the problem seemed very easy to reproduce. Again only on the left side. Driving on snow and ice seemed more noticeable but it didn`t require load or hills or turning to reproduce as I thought initially. In fact it even occurred in both 2W and 4W drive. So decided again to bring it back to the dealer. On the day I was bringing it in I decided to take it for a quick ride before loading it. Sure enough the problem is no longer occurring. Of course I really don`t want to bring it in again if I cannot reproduce this problem. Any ideas that might help or suggestions on what the problem is?

I’ve got an 09 outlander 800 with a HMF swamp series slip on and a snorkel kit. . Ran good until cousin overheated it twice in the woods and now there’s almost no engine power oil is foamy and smells like gas and exhaust smells rich. But there is no engine light on at all. . And some times hard start when cold…thinking the rings are washed out