Hey guys. A big hello from Moldova 🙂
Today I wanted to get off my clutch for a cleaning but I`ve got a big problem.

I `ve made a M14 x 1.5 bolt, I just put in a piece of metal in after that screw in the bolt. I`ve got stuck. I`m talking about the primary clutch, the inner half.

The inner half doesn`t want to pull out and I really can`t move that piece of metal from inside. Any ideas? Is there a possibility to get off the inner part of the clutch without a puller?

I`m in a really big trouble. I can`t do nothing now.

Any of you that have an Aftermarket Primary Clutch (any brand) ever had any problems? Brake anything? (axles, diffs, etc.) How much tinkering did you need to do to get it "dialed in"? Do you have to change the weights if you are changing from your ‘mud’ tires to your stock tires?

I’ve got the 1000 and am scared that I will start braking things with the extra torque etc. I also change out the mud tires 2-3 times a season.

shmoky

Any of you that have an Aftermarket Primary Clutch (any brand) ever had any problems? Brake anything? (axles, diffs, etc.) How much tinkering did you need to do to get it "dialed in"? Do you have to change the weights if you are changing from your ‘mud’ tires to your stock tires?

I’ve got the 1000 and am scared that I will start braking things with the extra torque etc. I also change out the mud tires 2-3 times a season.

shmoky

The quad stopped a couple of times but used full choke to get it running. Then it would run for a 30 clicks then bog down and quit. Now it will not run with out full choke and throttle. Changed fuel pump and still won’t run right. Before all this went down I had started to use full choke for months to get it running. Any ideas [emoji24]

Hey everyone! New to the forums. Sold my 2013 Honda rancher 420 and upgraded to the new outlander l 450. Wow what a difference. Already have a light bar installed. Having trouble deciding on wheels and tires. Plus no exhausts for this thing on the market yet. Anyways I’m new to can am and am up for any advice, tips or mods [emoji106]Attachment 27739Attachment 27740Attachment 27741

Attached Images

	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670232.101973.jpg (937.5 KB)
	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670254.773013.jpg (961.5 KB)
	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670275.953955.jpg (801.4 KB)

Hey everyone! New to the forums. Sold my 2013 Honda rancher 420 and upgraded to the new outlander l 450. Wow what a difference. Already have a light bar installed. Having trouble deciding on wheels and tires. Plus no exhausts for this thing on the market yet. Anyways I’m new to can am and am up for any advice, tips or mods [emoji106]Attachment 27739Attachment 27740Attachment 27741

Attached Images

	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670232.101973.jpg (937.5 KB)
	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670254.773013.jpg (961.5 KB)
	ImageUploadedByOff-Road Forums1434670275.953955.jpg (801.4 KB)

Ok fellas. I figured i would give back to the board since i mainly lurk and not really contribute.. (free loading like a muh)

bike is a 09 outy 800r XT

So my stock rad is pretty toast.. mud hole after mud hole, pressure washer after pressure washer the fins are pretty bent and was caked bad with burned on mud. I also overheated and limped a number of times, boiled over once too

so off to a rad relo .. went with the gorilla since eBay had it for about 160 shipped. decent kit but i needed to mod it a bit to be able to access the front trunk. so i jacked it all the way forward and drilled new holes in my rack.

next was off for a new rad. at over 240 for a factory BRP one i went off searching for an aftermarket one. eBay seller has the ASI Atv brand for 160 and change so i took a chance. reported "30%" more betterer cooling since tis a bit larger.

went to install the rad relo kit and the nice little fine print at the bottom of the single paper, poorly prepared instructions listed "will only work with factory rads"

FAWK!!!

well i tried it anyway when my new rad arrived and it actually fit fine. no issues. ran the new hoses and filled the system and started the bike. got to operating temp and the the fan kicked on. everything is good.

today, i go to rewire the hayden controller and i went to squeeze the new rad hoses that came with the kit (little soft and weeker compared to the factory hoses) and i noticed a little drip from up top. got a leak somewhere.

i pulled the catch can hose off and tossed some air into the filler neck, and low and behold there is a pin hole leak in a weld that attaches the filler neck to the passenger side tank.

so obviously this rad was never pressure tested from the factory (likely china made) . I have messaged the seller to see if they are going to send me anew one but haven’t received a response.

Figured i would post this incase anyone else is looking at these rads, overall the rad seems to be built pretty heavy duty, and it slightly larger, adding volume and more surface for cooling. I am also going to add some inline coolers on the feed and return lines. going to delete the PVC nipples gorilla sent with the kit and use the coolers to join the factory and aftermarket hoses together.

Ok fellas. I figured i would give back to the board since i mainly lurk and not really contribute.. (free loading like a muh)

bike is a 09 outy 800r XT

So my stock rad is pretty toast.. mud hole after mud hole, pressure washer after pressure washer the fins are pretty bent and was caked bad with burned on mud. I also overheated and limped a number of times, boiled over once too

so off to a rad relo .. went with the gorilla since eBay had it for about 160 shipped. decent kit but i needed to mod it a bit to be able to access the front trunk. so i jacked it all the way forward and drilled new holes in my rack.

next was off for a new rad. at over 240 for a factory BRP one i went off searching for an aftermarket one. eBay seller has the ASI Atv brand for 160 and change so i took a chance. reported "30%" more betterer cooling since tis a bit larger.

went to install the rad relo kit and the nice little fine print at the bottom of the single paper, poorly prepared instructions listed "will only work with factory rads"

FAWK!!!

well i tried it anyway when my new rad arrived and it actually fit fine. no issues. ran the new hoses and filled the system and started the bike. got to operating temp and the the fan kicked on. everything is good.

today, i go to rewire the hayden controller and i went to squeeze the new rad hoses that came with the kit (little soft and weeker compared to the factory hoses) and i noticed a little drip from up top. got a leak somewhere.

i pulled the catch can hose off and tossed some air into the filler neck, and low and behold there is a pin hole leak in a weld that attaches the filler neck to the passenger side tank.

so obviously this rad was never pressure tested from the factory (likely china made) . I have messaged the seller to see if they are going to send me anew one but haven’t received a response.

Figured i would post this incase anyone else is looking at these rads, overall the rad seems to be built pretty heavy duty, and it slightly larger, adding volume and more surface for cooling. I am also going to add some inline coolers on the feed and return lines. going to delete the PVC nipples gorilla sent with the kit and use the coolers to join the factory and aftermarket hoses together.

On the Gen1 bikes, the rear trunk as designed with a pathetic attempt at being dust/water proof. The foam perimeter seal and the huge drain hole at the bottom really doesnt work well

i plugged the drain hole, but the foam seal is shot and i dun tore it out. anyone replace theirs with something equivalent and/or better? the foam measures about 3/4 wide by 1/2 tall with a sticky back

thanks!

On the Gen1 bikes, the rear trunk as designed with a pathetic attempt at being dust/water proof. The foam perimeter seal and the huge drain hole at the bottom really doesnt work well

i plugged the drain hole, but the foam seal is shot and i dun tore it out. anyone replace theirs with something equivalent and/or better? the foam measures about 3/4 wide by 1/2 tall with a sticky back

thanks!