So I called up can am for my first service after 10 hours on my outlander. I got quoted for almost $300 to complete the service. After hearing that, I asked if I could just get all the fluids and check the valve clearances myself since I know how. The service rep. Told me that they wouldn’t clear the maintenance light unless I paid for the service. Is there anyway I can reset the light? I’ll probably have to go to someone else. Kinda makes me mad, but just trying to see if there are other options

Anybody have any tips or tricks to restore the black finish on my Muzzy slip on? Mine is stained brown from mud/dirt being baked onto it. I clean my bike after every ride but my pipe wont come back to black. I think the original finish on it is some kind of Teflon so I’m hoping I can bring it back to looking near new.

Anybody have any tips or tricks to restore the black finish on my Muzzy slip on? Mine is stained brown from mud/dirt being baked onto it. I clean my bike after every ride but my pipe wont come back to black. I think the original finish on it is some kind of Teflon so I’m hoping I can bring it back to looking near new.

Anyone trim their painted plastics especially the white? What did you use to keep from messing up the paint? Any pictures?

I know mine are black under the paint since the underside isn’t completely painted so I don’t want to chip the top paint.

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My niece wanted to race her "pink princess quad is faster than uncle Steves" she said. She’s two.

I picked up a used qsc and second gen stm. They were for a 1000 outlander. I have a 2013 max 650 with 28" Executioners, muzzy slip on, tuner by vfj. I had the secondary on and everything worked great, rpms would be in the 7600 range and climb until it topped out. I out on the primary today and now I can’t get it dialled in.

The secondary has a yellow spring and a 50/38 helix. The primary has a silver spring. It initially had the following weights: T-1/2ss, C-1/4ss, B-3/8ss and cross 1/4sh. From a stop with wot my rpms were around 6000 and climbing, take off was around 2000. I changed the weights a couple of times, my most recent effort is: T-0, C-0, B-1/4ss and cross 3/8ss. With this setup from a stop to wot rpms are 6950 then a drop to 6400 and climbs with speed, takeoff is about 2150.

I’m no tuning expert and can’t find much help with 650 settings online as most have an 800 or 1000. Any thoughts? Really need some advice. Not much weight left to pull out now.

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Need gear lube weights and what is best brand to use. Royal purple is used by some. Thanks Mike

New outty with 10 hours. Blows the F8 ign switch 5amp fuse… That kills all power. Trying to help dealer trouble shoot… Spearfish SD. New fuse will let it start, as soon as you go 20 ft, it blows… Forward or reverse.
Battery good. Batt connections good.
It did rain the other night, she was out with out the key in it. Can water in the switch, cause this?
I baby this thing… No mud holes etc.
Of course… On a 2 week vacation to ride… Black Hills, Montana, Bighorn WY

Wife and I are looking to take a Labor Day trip up to that area this year. Where is a good centrally located place to camp that has atv access? Is Lake Hilbert a good place to stay. Not sure if they have availability, not open til Thursday.

Considering purchasing the rad relocate due to difficulty of cleaning radiator and I think it looks neat sitting on the front rack. Also, I have the concern of the quad going in limp mode although I have not experienced it. I don’t do the heavy mud, maybe just up to the floor boards and the rest is trails at parks in GA or at a friends property.

I have a max with the storage bag on the back and I’m aware I will lose front storage which is not a big deal to me. For those that have the rad relocate do you regret it. Or do you feel its a mod that your glad you did. Any pros or cons. Btw, I’m looking to go with the BRP rad.