What is your EJK dobeck gen 3.5 programmer set to??? I have a outlander 1000 with hmf exhaust and snorkels.

Mine came set with stage 1 modifications. Exhaust and air filter. Green idle 4.5, yellow accel 5, red full throttle 5.5

I moved it green idle 5, yellow acceleration 6, red full throttle 6.5

Any recommendations please??
Only reason I got it was bc my exhaust is extremely HOT!

I want to know why everyone says "get a new clutch".
I dont feel like my clutch is slipping or anything, so how would an aftermarket clutch make any difference.

I want to know why everyone says "get a new clutch".
I dont feel like my clutch is slipping or anything, so how would an aftermarket clutch make any difference.

I realize the 570 isn’t out yet, but I was leaning toward that machine for my next puchase, and was wondering how the 650 compared in power deliver. I realize the 650 has more power, and the current 500 also has a good horsepower total. However, the 500 gets criticized for being tuned for top end, and that it feels soft on the bottom. What about the 650? How does it "feel?" I had one dealer tell me that it was very strong on the bottom and difficult to handle in technical terrain, while another dealer told me the opposite. I believe the 570 will be more than enough for my needs, but….in case there happens to be a ’15 650 on the lot when the ’16s come to town, I want to know what I’m passing up if I ignore a screaming deal.

Thank you!

I realize the 570 isn’t out yet, but I was leaning toward that machine for my next puchase, and was wondering how the 650 compared in power deliver. I realize the 650 has more power, and the current 500 also has a good horsepower total. However, the 500 gets criticized for being tuned for top end, and that it feels soft on the bottom. What about the 650? How does it "feel?" I had one dealer tell me that it was very strong on the bottom and difficult to handle in technical terrain, while another dealer told me the opposite. I believe the 570 will be more than enough for my needs, but….in case there happens to be a ’15 650 on the lot when the ’16s come to town, I want to know what I’m passing up if I ignore a screaming deal.

Thank you!

I just finished up the install of my PATV arched forward a-arms. The arms look great, are super heavy duty compared with the originals, and at full droop my wheels still turn ok so the stock axles should be alright. Only time there is any issue is at full droop with the wheels turned all the way to one side or the other, which I think it is a pretty rare occurrence.

Install was a pain on my bike because of my skids and extreme front bumper, had to take a lot of that off/apart to get at the lower front a-arm mounting bolt.

PATV packaged and shipped them well and they arrived with little to no damage on the powder coat. This is a lot more than I can say for my Cfab stretched trailing arms, but I’ll cover that in another review when I finish that install. Fitment was great with one caveat. Bushings (garage products) fit nice and tight, ball joints pressed in OK. Only problem I had was the ball joint mounting plate on each bottom arm hit the brake rotors and I had to do some grinding to get proper clearance here between the plate and rotor all the way through the suspension travel range. Ground it down, put a nice radius on it, and coated it with some duplicolor bedliner material. We’ll see how well that holds up. I also had to chase the threads for the grease fittings before I could install them but no big deal.

Arms pushed the tires about 2 inches forward, and with my shocks set same as before the arms were installed are giving me 2.5" to 3" of lift. Once I get the rear done and these garage products bushings broken in a little (they are pretty tight) I plan on adjusting preload again on shocks, but this was more lift than I had hoped for.

If anyone has any questions on these arms, let me know. I will update this thread with some pictures once I finish up the rear and get an alignment done.

I just finished up the install of my PATV arched forward a-arms. The arms look great, are super heavy duty compared with the originals, and at full droop my wheels still turn ok so the stock axles should be alright. Only time there is any issue is at full droop with the wheels turned all the way to one side or the other, which I think it is a pretty rare occurrence.

Install was a pain on my bike because of my skids and extreme front bumper, had to take a lot of that off/apart to get at the lower front a-arm mounting bolt.

PATV packaged and shipped them well and they arrived with little to no damage on the powder coat. This is a lot more than I can say for my Cfab stretched trailing arms, but I’ll cover that in another review when I finish that install. Fitment was great with one caveat. Bushings (garage products) fit nice and tight, ball joints pressed in OK. Only problem I had was the ball joint mounting plate on each bottom arm hit the brake rotors and I had to do some grinding to get proper clearance here between the plate and rotor all the way through the suspension travel range. Ground it down, put a nice radius on it, and coated it with some duplicolor bedliner material. We’ll see how well that holds up. I also had to chase the threads for the grease fittings before I could install them but no big deal.

Arms pushed the tires about 2 inches forward, and with my shocks set same as before the arms were installed are giving me 2.5" to 3" of lift. Once I get the rear done and these garage products bushings broken in a little (they are pretty tight) I plan on adjusting preload again on shocks, but this was more lift than I had hoped for.

If anyone has any questions on these arms, let me know. I will update this thread with some pictures once I finish up the rear and get an alignment done.

I have a brand new 2015 outlander 800xt. It has less than 120 miles on it.. When I accelerate above 45mph the belt slips and the engine revs up.. It will also do it in Low range to at the top end of the throttle/ speed for low, say about 25-30 mph if hard on the throttle.
Stock tires, No mods. NO MUD or WATER

At the low end it seems fine. it will lift the front wheels, so its grabbing fairly well I figure.. Its my first Canam, so I cant say if it sounds normal when running. Its freaking noisy, that’s all I can say.. Fellas say its the nature of Canam, Noisy. ha

I have a brand new 2015 outlander 800xt. It has less than 120 miles on it.. When I accelerate above 45mph the belt slips and the engine revs up.. It will also do it in Low range to at the top end of the throttle/ speed for low, say about 25-30 mph if hard on the throttle.
Stock tires, No mods. NO MUD or WATER

At the low end it seems fine. it will lift the front wheels, so its grabbing fairly well I figure.. Its my first Canam, so I cant say if it sounds normal when running. Its freaking noisy, that’s all I can say.. Fellas say its the nature of Canam, Noisy. ha

Finally pulled old yeller out of the garage after almost two years, oil leak and dead battery…fixed both. Drained the gas and made sure everything is greased/oiled/lubed before I finally get back in the game. It’s been a few years but I think I’m finally healthy enough to give it another shot.

One of the slots on the tranny cover stripped so I put some thread lock on it, fixed the drain plug leak with a bit of teflon tape until I get a more permanent fix. Got a new Duracel ATV battery, running some sea foam through the oil right now so I can make sure it’s all cleaned out. Fired up after maybe 2-3 turns of the starter and sputtered a bit but the gas was old even with preserver in it. I ran it up and down the street a few times WOT, did some donuts in the vacant lot across the street and just let it sit an run until radiator fan kicked on, actually started to worry me cause it wasn’t kicking on until I ran it hard a few times. Sprayed down all the rubber and wiring with lubricant. Made sure all my connections are secure. I changed all other fluids before I parked it so I think they’re all fine, I just wanted to flush out the oil in case there was any condensation, all the oil had been drained after i found the leak initially. Threw in about a half gallon of fresh gas and about half a cup of sea foam, cleaned the air filter and shot some carb cleaner down the throttle body. Still have a very slow leak in one tire I’ve given up trying to find, takes months to go flat.

I’ve posted a couple of pictures!

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