So took my freshly snorkeled and rad-relo’d 2009 800 Outy for a weekend of fun. First day out with it I got through so good mud/ water pits with no issues at all.
One obstacle remained, a small "mud/clay" pond that I thought for sure wasn’t going to give me any issues. got halfway through and left off the throttle for a quick second to kick 4 wheel in, and gunned it. Started to go in the wrong direction and got into spot where I had to back up. Let off the throttle, got it into R, and backed up a bit, then it just died. Like an idiot I tried cranking it back over when the pipe was under water. Got winched out and drained the pipe out.
Bike was done for the rest of the trip. Got it home. ITs cranking hard like a low batt even off a jump box or the jumped off the truck. Pulled the starter and its spinning fine. drained the brand new royal purple oil and its a mess.
Assuming I must have sucked some mud into the pipe, since the snorkels/airbox are wicked clean.
Is it common/possible to sink the motor via the exhaust and have it drain through and passed the rings into the crank case?? its got a Big Gun pipe on it.
going to try a flush routine to improve anything but I fear I’m in store for a tear down
Well I hear all this shit about limp mode and how it sucks but it saved my motor I’m sure! Was at tall pines over last weekend and didn’t realize my rad was packed solid with dried mud and my wheeler cut off and said hi temp! Wtf!! The display is useless once u hit the first mud hole and I don’t like wiping it off as it scratches the plastic and over time looks like crap. So once it cut off I looked down and seen I was overheating I looked at the rad and wow it was packed! If it didn’t cut the wheeler off I’d of ran for awhile and surley hurt the motor. I’m sure it’s not good to have this cut the machine off but better than cracking the cases or something else. Btw to clean the rad is a pain!! Canam doesn’t give u any room at all to clean it on the trail.
I have a 209 outlander 800, and I recently put on an EJK 3.5 tuner for my muzzy. Since then I noticed when i’d be at a quarter throttle steady it would bog down a little bit. Also after I started it I would slowly try to accel and the bike would just die sometimes. Could this be my fuel pump slowly going or just the tuner not tuned properly?
I have a 209 outlander 800, and I recently put on an EJK 3.5 tuner for my muzzy. Since then I noticed when i’d be at a quarter throttle steady it would bog down a little bit. Also after I started it I would slowly try to accel and the bike would just die sometimes. Could this be my fuel pump slowly going or just the tuner not tuned properly?
I completed the Renegade brake swap on my 2013 Outlander 1000xt and now the rear brake doesn’t grab very much. I have all new Renegade master cylinders on the bars and I switched to the Renegade brake lines. The problem is that when I grab the left brake lever is doesn’t move much. In fact it’s all I can do to pull it enough to engage the parking brake. Does anyone have any ideas on what’s wrong?
I completed the Renegade brake swap on my 2013 Outlander 1000xt and now the rear brake doesn’t grab very much. I have all new Renegade master cylinders on the bars and I switched to the Renegade brake lines. The problem is that when I grab the left brake lever is doesn’t move much. In fact it’s all I can do to pull it enough to engage the parking brake. Does anyone have any ideas on what’s wrong?
I completed the Renegade brake swap on my 2013 Outlander 1000xt and now the rear brake doesn’t grab very much. I have all new Renegade master cylinders on the bars and I switched to the Renegade brake lines. The problem is that when I grab the left brake lever is doesn’t move much. In fact it’s all I can do to pull it enough to engage the parking brake. Does anyone have any ideas on what’s wrong?
