Is taking one of the swing arms off as simple as removing the nut and sliding out that long bolt? Am I going to have bearings falling out all over the place? I’m trying to change the cv boot and I got the tire off and shock off and unhooked the sway bar from the swing arm. I just want to know what I’m up against pulling this rod out of the arms and if I’m gonna pieces flying everywhere. :tools1:
I have been talking to someone who is selling a 2004 Bombardier Outlander 400 4×4 with 426 miles, under 17 hours total ride time. I talked him down to $2000. Here is the ad: Extremely low mile (426/17 hrs) Bombardier 4×4
Please take a look and tell me if this is a good buy, any help is much appreciated!
P.S. This will be my first atv and i will be using it mainly in the winter to plow snow in the chicago area, so we can get quite a bit of snow during bad winters
I have been talking to someone who is selling a 2004 Bombardier Outlander 400 4×4 with 426 miles, under 17 hours total ride time. I talked him down to $2000. Here is the ad: Extremely low mile (426/17 hrs) Bombardier 4×4
Please take a look and tell me if this is a good buy, any help is much appreciated!
P.S. This will be my first atv and i will be using it mainly in the winter to plow snow in the chicago area, so we can get quite a bit of snow during bad winters
Hey I’m doing the fluids on my 07 outlander 800 xt. I put royal purple 75w90 on the diffs with the lubro moly made for diffs. I put royal purple 75w140 in the gearbox with the lubro moly made for atf and auto transmissions. Now I’m second guessing the lubro moly in the transmission thinking I should have used the differential additive. What do you guys think. Just did the vxb one way bearing too. Quad is still apart and not started yet I just want to make sure I don’t mess anything up. Thanks
Hey I have a dobeck 3.5 on a 2014 outlander 800 twin air filter, npp slip on.
What’s everyone run for settings 4 and 5 not to sure on what to do to change them ,
Also on my afr gauge I have cruise set to 13.2 and wot at 13 but idle I can’t seem to adjust it idles at 11.7 i have the sensor put in the slip on where it joins to headers
Thanks
Hit a stump with the front right tire the other night. A-arms, tie rods, and pitman all seem to be straight. Both front tires seem to be aligned with each other still. The problem is the handlebars need to be turned to the left to drive straight.
Before I tear the steering column apart to verify if the pitman or upper main tube are twisted, can anyone explain if it is possible that the DPS is "twisted" and this could be as simple as resetting the torque offset in the DPS?
I have to go riding next weekend and would hate to have to adjust tie rods to make it work if it might be as simple as hooking up to BUDS for 2 minutes.