Hello everyone, I am new to the forum and have searched for the problem I’m having, but can not find anything. I have a 2006 rancher 350 that I just converted to super at disc brakes. I can not build any pressure to save my life. There isn’t any bulge in the lines and I believe my master cylinder is fine because it was working before conversion. I don’t think there is any air in lines either. What is the exact bleeding process for disc brakes? I thought I bleed them correctly but I guess now.
Steering problem. After disc brakes installed 26 bighorn tires and now it is HARD to turn the steering wheels left and right. I greased everything before putting brakes on and put evything back together correctly. Only thing I didn’t do was replace bearing which I’m going to do this week. I forgot bearings at dealership after I was an hour away the other day before putting disc brakes on
If anything can please help it would be greatly appreciated !!!
02, 400ex: Was thinking about leaving the front rotor plastic covers off. Has anyone ever done this without any adverse effects. I don’t race so I’m not to worried about a heating issue, and I don’t ride in the swamp so I’m not to worried about mud build up in the rotor area. I’m up in the air on this one with mixed reviews from what I have researched on why the cover is there to start with, and why it should or shouldn’t be removed. Some personal input on the removal of said covers would be great.
Attachment 25725when I took my caliper off the replace the pads the disc was pretty wobbly. In the picture the piece I have my hand on will move back and forth prolly 1/4 inch. Is there a way to tighten the two big nuts against the caliper?
Attachment 25725when I took my caliper off the replace the pads the disc was pretty wobbly. In the picture the piece I have my hand on will move back and forth prolly 1/4 inch. Is there a way to tighten the two big nuts against the caliper?
As previous thread im doing a major rebuild to the front end suspension setup and wondering on ride height of the rear and whats the maximum angle that the rear uni can have or the longest shock that can fit in without having any long term reliability issues in my 92 300 fourtrax
rancher 420 the brake pads are rusted in ,got calliper off but i can get the pins out iv sprayed them and everything but not budging,all thats happening is is kinda chipping away
Has any one ran into the issue where the front end of your bike is lifted so much that the CB axles are on too much of an angle? I have a 2" lift in the front of my rancher plus stiffer bronco shocks and 26" slingshot xt’s and this puts my CV axles on so much of an axle that it pounds the inner joint retaining clip into its slot so that it can not be removed without destroying the clip and banging it out with a hammer and chisel. This makes it a big task to change boots. Also I am afraid that I am going to have to replace the axles prematurely. I was just wondering if any one has had this issue and found a fix. I know they make diff drop kits for trucks but I was wondering if any one knows if they make them for Honda atv.
Has any one ran into the issue where the front end of your bike is lifted so much that the CB axles are on too much of an angle? I have a 2" lift in the front of my rancher plus stiffer bronco shocks and 26" slingshot xt’s and this puts my CV axles on so much of an axle that it pounds the inner joint retaining clip into its slot so that it can not be removed without destroying the clip and banging it out with a hammer and chisel. This makes it a big task to change boots. Also I am afraid that I am going to have to replace the axles prematurely. I was just wondering if any one has had this issue and found a fix. I know they make diff drop kits for trucks but I was wondering if any one knows if they make them for Honda atv.
