Adding the 2in lift spacer’s and there nothing left in the shocks after removing springs, every sight I look at they want 100-400 for the shocks with springs I just need the shocks! Any body know where I can get them cheaper then that or the dealer hell truck shocks are cheaper then that, or should I get the high lift springs and use the stock shocks that are dead?? In need of help in Wisconsin.

OK so my older 400 foreman a week or so ago, I had a front shock spring snap
SO figured 15+ yrs old,
I looked about for just a one used one to replace it, BUT didn’t find any LOL
SO< was always planning on getting 512’s some day as they get great reviews
I also looked at just doing springs from High lifter but after I took the broken one off, I cannot get teh dam thing apart?? SO, the price for HL springs plus shipping and getting them on my old one’s I said, hell, I did a quick look to find 512’s and came across some look alikes(doubt same quality) BUT could get two for the 70 bucks, adjustable and come with covers?
SO?? I debated on 70 bucks them or 240 bucks for 512’s, and said what the hell for 70 bucks I’ll give the cheap o’s a try LOL after all this is a older atv?

SO< they tell me they measure 12 inches eye to eye center hole?
OK, my old one’s measure 11 and 7/16 , so there little over 1/2 an inch longer, maybe my old one’s are worn??or shrunk a 1/16" LOL
ANY ways I get the shocks in the mail today, open the box and Geez, they look LONG
Humm?
I do have a 1&1/2" lift on my atv so?
I measure eye to eye on them and they measure 13 inches, SO much for the 12 inches they claimed LOL
Maybe they sent me backs??
OH well, there a little wider too than my old shocks
SO, I be a thinking, Just remove my lift and they should still work?? as removing it makes up for the 1.5 inch longer shocks ??
NOT sure how this will effect handling or not??

as my luck goes, I get wheel off old shock off, and JUST start to stick new shock on its starts to rain, only 48 degree’s
SO< hell with this outside work project today
IT seems to work fine, a bunch stiffer than Old shock, but its on the middle setting so can come down a little to see if that helps
IT also seems to be holding up the one side now a little higher then other side,

SO< till the rain stops, done for today
HOPE tomorrow I can get other one on and go for a ride and see IF they suck or not, have a 30 day return policy so?? if they suck, back they go! LOL
and will get the 512’s
IF they work OK, I’ll keep
as for 70 bucks for new shocks, on an older atv, seems OK deal??

here is a pic of old next to new!

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So I bought an 04 400ex at the beginning of the year its a nice quad but it didn’t come with any rear brakes. It just had the rotor and the caliper stay. I have been having a hard time trying to get a caliper on, I ordered one and it seems to not fit then took it to the honda shop and they were saying my caliper stay was different so I ordered one and got it today and it was the same exact stay I already have. Its getting very frustrating. I feel like I either have the wrong caliper or I am missing another part. Any advice?? Here are some pics:

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Just installed new pads all around on 07 400ex. The quad will move in neutral pushing or pulling but not easily. Same goes for on a lift. The wheels will move around but will not spin freely. So, how do I know how much resistance there should be? Thanks

Hello all, first time poster, although I’ve lurked for awhile trying to research answers to questions that I’ve had with my bike over the years…on to my post, I have a ’96 TRX200D Type 2, have owned it since I was a teenager. It has given me 20 years of excellent service, and still runs like a top!

I’m planning on selling it here very soon and have been working on it the past few days trying to get the brakes back in good working order. The only problem I’ve had is with the front hydraulic brakes. I bled the lines first, checked the shoes which were good to go, rebuilt the wheel cylinders, and started to fill the system back up with new brake fluid. After vacuum bleeding for a good two hours and not really getting anywhere I buttoned it back up full of fluid to see where my problem might lie.

I clamped a vise grip a couple inches downstream of the master cylinder, and got a rock hard stop. I then clamped the line above where the three lines come together, and again got a rock hard stop, so master cylinder is good to go. However once I clamped on either right or left lines underneath where all three join, the brake lever had free play all the way in. I’m guessing there is an air leak somewhere in the area where they join but I’m not sure. I don’t see any brake fluid leaking anywhere on any of the lines so at this point I’m guessing it’s a pin hole somewhere leaking air into the system…

Am I right in assuming I’ll need new brake lines? Or could it possibly where they all join up? There are no bulges in any of the lines btw…any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys…

How the flip do you get the flipping ring in the drum !?!?!?!(!?!(!(!(!(!(!(!?!?!?!?

The drum won’t fit on over the pads with the ring installed, and I can’t see how its supposed to go in there after I slide the drum in place. What the flip!!!

Case of beer for your voodoo secrets.

My front left brakes on my 2013 Honda foreman or squeaking when I get on them hard. I’m guessing I need to change the brakes. I’m not positive. I won’t be able to look at this till this weekend but if it’s just the brakes pads I’ll order some and do it this weekend. I got 2,000 miles on it should I just change all the brakes all the way around. The ones in the front will stop the bike on dime but they just squeak like crazy. The back brakes are also a little lose. I put more brake fluid in it recently so I know it’s good on that.

Hi everyone, new to this site. I just bought a 01 300ex for my daughter. I was trying to soften the front suspension, using the spanner wrench I somehow managed to twist the shock right off the lower shock mount. What year shocks are interchangeable on these bikes. I found a used 08 front shock for the 300ex, will it fit an 01?

Started with the rear, front kit is still on order.

the old

starting to bolt on the new kit.

NOTE: If you dont grease the o-ring grove to keep the o-ring that seals the axle in, your going to have a helva time installing it.

sorry about the potato quality

closeup on the completely installed kit. but note the poor angle on the mechanical brake lines. Turns out this angle goes to sh*t in a hurry once you get the linkage adjusted right. so much so that I choose to re-do it.

Here you can see how i lowered the lines with a piece of angle iron. being 2" lower and putting the lines much more inline with the tangential pull means they actually work.

Plenty of clearance on 11" stock rims.
NOTE: the angle of the lever arm after riding and adjusting. cant lock up the rear end but certainly keeps the bike from moving (parking brake) and does assist in stopping it.

Ok I have a 05 honda rancher 400 at, the front brakes worked fine for a while and now I have to pump the lever mutipul times to get any pressure, I’ve already bled the lines and replaced the pads and adjusted them, and still have to pump them to get pressure, and as soon as I let of the lever the pressure is gone. Please help I’m stumped