I have a 03 sportsman 600 roughly 4500 miles and 550 hours. Runs great around the yard and cruising down the road. I can creep through the mud no problem but as soon as I give it more throttle the quad starts bogging out. I will stop and put it in neutral and after about 20-30 seconds of idling and reeving it the quad will run great again.
It seems as if the quad loses power when under load and above 1/4 throttle to sum it up. Runs great down the road however.
I have a 2001 90 Scrambler, runs for about 50 feet & dies, after it stops electric starter barely spins it, kicks over fine but won’t start again for about 5 minutes, then same thing. I just got thru installing new piston & jug, new carb with electric choke. Just needed to replace the choke it wasn’t working right but I thought I was purchasing just the choke but was surprised when the new carb came in, FYI the new carb is shorter in height than the original if anyone thinks that might be the issue. Tried moving the needle around , check gas petcock getting good gas.. I installed piston with arrow pointing down or front of motor…..I am baffled. Need a Good problem solver!!!!
As titled, I have the flashing hot on the speedo issue. At first I had measured resistance on the thermistor and found it to be bad. Polaris manual specs below 178 ohms is bad, I had around 70. I ordered a used temp sensor, measured it when I got it, same thing. Come to find out a blown fuse in my multimeter made the resistance values rather…off. So after sorting that out, both thermistors are good. I also verified its operation as the motor warms up.
So, as a fail safe the fan should be running during a hot condition or even if the thermistor is unplugged, right? No fan. I do have 14+ volts at the fan harness, and find that it drops to 2 or 3 volts under load. I verified the fan works by hooking direct 12v to it, I also tried using a computer case fan(12v less than .5A draw) to eliminate an issue of too much draw, nothing. With this tiny fan hooked up, there is still a voltage drop to 2 or 3 volts. I also used a chassis ground for this test, no go.
So this is the case where the hot/cel is flashing during key on whether it’s running or not.
I’m down to the ecm/pcm- the black box that’s been recalled on every machine with it…except mine for whatever reason. This box controls hot lamp and fan as well as other things. I’m leaning towards this being the issue, but can’t really test it. I did unplug it, used contact cleaner to clean it, the harnesses connected to it and all other harnesses involved in this issue.
I’ve read any and all forum threads on this issue that I could find for a couple weeks now.
Last weekend of the 18th and 19th I got my 2014 sportsman 570 efi deep in some mud and water and the belt housing filled up. After pulling it out draining and drying the belt I headed back to camp with no issues and when it was brought home I removed the clutch cover and cleaned it out. This weekend going thru water that would cover half to three quarters of the cover the belt would get wet and slip ever time is there a certain way the cover has to be positioned or did I miss something with reinstalling it?
Last weekend of the 18th and 19th I got my 2014 sportsman 570 efi deep in some mud and water and the belt housing filled up. After pulling it out draining and drying the belt I headed back to camp with no issues and when it was brought home I removed the clutch cover and cleaned it out. This weekend going thru water that would cover half to three quarters of the cover the belt would get wet and slip ever time is there a certain way the cover has to be positioned or did I miss something with reinstalling it?
Rode yesterday backfired then acted like it does when when you don’t press the override in revese. e. Only in forward it does the same thing any suggestions ? Cdi box?
I have a 1997 Polaris sportsman 500, use it on the farm and for hunting mostly. I have recently noticed(after having a power issue) that when riding at night, my lights are on and bright at low Rpms, however, when I increase the Rpms just a bit above idle they dim. Any guesses at this problem?
I had a little "incident" on my 2014 Sportsman 850 XP the other day… lets just say the puddle was deeper than it looked. Anyway, the headlight pod is heavily damaged and the ATV won’t start. The connector on the back of the cluster was damaged, 2 or 3 wires may have been crushed/cut and the cluster housing took some heavy damage as well.
Aside from that, some lower priority damage includes the upper and lower pod body parts, the throttle lever snapped off, and the handlebars both rotated and bent forward. Most of that I can fix on my own.
I’m just looking for some input from the knowledgeable crowd about what might be preventing the ATV from starting.
Does the cluster have to be connected for the machine to run?
If the answer to #1 is no, did I interrupt a circuit in the cluster harness that’s preventing the unit from starting?
Can I get my hands on the connector/pins to replace that part of the main harness?
If I have to buy a used cluster, will the dealer adjust the hours/miles?
Does anyone have a working time machine that can take me back to Friday morning?
I know there are common sense answers to most of those questions above, but I’m hoping to hear "some" good news that might make this repair cheaper than the $2300 the dealer quoted.
