We have a problem with one of our 2013 Polaris Ranger EFI 500 4x4s that we are trying to fix and it has utterly thwarted us. When the issue first presented it self, we were informed that it "just stopped" while driving along. It seemed like running out of fuel so I refilled it and it would not start. It was -20 degrees Celsius outside at the time. Bringing it into the workshop I got the fault codes off it which are;
22 – TPS Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
41 – Intake Air Temp sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
42 – Engine Temp sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
45 – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground
46 – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Short to Battery Voltage
51 – Injector Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
So, at the same time we checked the spark which is strong, set gap on the plug and cleaned it. Also checked the fuel pump for operation and cleaned the strainer filter. The injector is injecting fuel when the engine is cranking. We tried cleaning all the sensors and then swapped out the Coil, Ignition module, TPS, IAT, ETS, MAP, Crank angle sensor and Injector with the other identical Polaris we have and the same codes were returned after resetting the ECU. We also swapped the ECU. We compression tested the engine and found it to be slightly low, but not low enough to prevent it from firing. We also found that the engine oil was diluted with fuel and water, so the lubrication system was flushed many times with diesel and oil until clean and new oil and filter added. Upon bore inspection with a camera we found damage present that is indicative of the diluted oil.
Then we started testing the wiring loom. We checked continuity between all of the sensor plugs and the plug on the ECU and also for short to ground or battery +ve, all sensors plugs had continuity with no (little) resistance back to the ECU plug and there were no shorts found. We traced out the entire wiring diagram and checked everything we could think of that was common to the fault codes returned as well as the wiring for the injector which is not directly connected to the other sensors.
Still it will not start. We have run out of options for testing things and were hoping someone may have had a similar or same issue before with this model.
We have a problem with one of our 2013 Polaris Ranger EFI 500 4x4s that we are trying to fix and it has utterly thwarted us. When the issue first presented it self, we were informed that it "just stopped" while driving along. It seemed like running out of fuel so I refilled it and it would not start. It was -20 degrees Celsius outside at the time. Bringing it into the workshop I got the fault codes off it which are;
22 – TPS Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
41 – Intake Air Temp sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
42 – Engine Temp sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
45 – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Open Circuit/Short to ground
46 – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Short to Battery Voltage
51 – Injector Open Circuit/Short to ground or battery Voltage
So, at the same time we checked the spark which is strong, set gap on the plug and cleaned it. Also checked the fuel pump for operation and cleaned the strainer filter. The injector is injecting fuel when the engine is cranking. We tried cleaning all the sensors and then swapped out the Coil, Ignition module, TPS, IAT, ETS, MAP, Crank angle sensor and Injector with the other identical Polaris we have and the same codes were returned after resetting the ECU. We also swapped the ECU. We compression tested the engine and found it to be slightly low, but not low enough to prevent it from firing. We also found that the engine oil was diluted with fuel and water, so the lubrication system was flushed many times with diesel and oil until clean and new oil and filter added. Upon bore inspection with a camera we found damage present that is indicative of the diluted oil.
Then we started testing the wiring loom. We checked continuity between all of the sensor plugs and the plug on the ECU and also for short to ground or battery +ve, all sensors plugs had continuity with no (little) resistance back to the ECU plug and there were no shorts found. We traced out the entire wiring diagram and checked everything we could think of that was common to the fault codes returned as well as the wiring for the injector which is not directly connected to the other sensors.
Still it will not start. We have run out of options for testing things and were hoping someone may have had a similar or same issue before with this model.
we have a trail boss 330( not sure of the yr) at work. The chain was loose and me and a coworker were tightening it via the way shown on YouTube. My coworker was holding the front brakes (the rear brakes haven’t worked as long as I’ve worked here) to keep it from rolling and putting slack in the chain. Well all the sudden the front brakes went out. There’s no tension/pressure when you pull the front brake lever, and not there’s fluid leaking out around the rear caliper. I have to fix this before my boss comes back from vacation. If I fix the leak at the rear, refill brake fluid, and bleed brakes, will the front brakes start working again?
Just a little back story. This is my 05 sportsman 500 that has sat unused for sometime. It was my wife’s but I took it over finally.
So 3 days ago I installed a new winch. Everything worked the way it was supposed to. Finally got to ride it yesterday and it ran great. No issues at all. Parked it outside. It’s usually in the garage on the battery tender. Went to start it tonight and nothing. Light on the dash barely came on.
Hooked up the charger. Turned the key and it half fired. Couple more times nothing. Let it sit for 5 minutes turn the key putt putt putt then nothing again. Totally disconnected the power to the winch completely. Same issue again.
I had the solenoid mounted sideways.
After going over the instructions over and over checking the wiring I saw not to mount the solenoid upside down. I also screwed it down to the frame. Another no no according to instructions.
Could I have caused a problem doing that or would a bad battery cause it to not run, even with a charger hooked up?
The battery is an Interstate maybe 2 years old and been on the maintainer the whole time. I would have thought carb or fuel issue had it not run perfectly for so long.
Just a little back story. This is my 05 sportsman 500 that has sat unused for sometime. It was my wife’s but I took it over finally.
So 3 days ago I installed a new winch. Everything worked the way it was supposed to. Finally got to ride it yesterday and it ran great. No issues at all. Parked it outside. It’s usually in the garage on the battery tender. Went to start it tonight and nothing. Light on the dash barely came on.
Hooked up the charger. Turned the key and it half fired. Couple more times nothing. Let it sit for 5 minutes turn the key putt putt putt then nothing again. Totally disconnected the power to the winch completely. Same issue again.
I had the solenoid mounted sideways.
After going over the instructions over and over checking the wiring I saw not to mount the solenoid upside down. I also screwed it down to the frame. Another no no according to instructions.
Could I have caused a problem doing that or would a bad battery cause it to not run, even with a charger hooked up?
The battery is an Interstate maybe 2 years old and been on the maintainer the whole time. I would have thought carb or fuel issue had it not run perfectly for so long.
Just a little back story. This is my 05 sportsman 500 that has sat unused for sometime. It was my wife’s but I took it over finally.
So 3 days ago I installed a new winch. Everything worked the way it was supposed to. Finally got to ride it yesterday and it ran great. No issues at all. Parked it outside. It’s usually in the garage on the battery tender. Went to start it tonight and nothing. Light on the dash barely came on.
Hooked up the charger. Turned the key and it half fired. Couple more times nothing. Let it sit for 5 minutes turn the key putt putt putt then nothing again. Totally disconnected the power to the winch completely. Same issue again.
I had the solenoid mounted sideways.
After going over the instructions over and over checking the wiring I saw not to mount the solenoid upside down. I also screwed it down to the frame. Another no no according to instructions.
Could I have caused a problem doing that or would a bad battery cause it to not run, even with a charger hooked up?
The battery is an Interstate maybe 2 years old and been on the maintainer the whole time. I would have thought carb or fuel issue had it not run perfectly for so long.
Hi all new to the forum. I have an 04 ATP 500 HO. Rear propshaft splines gone and pinion shaft splines almost gone. Thanks to no brother good in law!!:motz: do I need to remove the swing arm to get propshaft out? roll pin removed, Rear diff is separated from bike, propshaft just hanging out in the swing arm. Cant find it anywhere on how to take the swing arm off. As far as a fix to the pinion shaft splines 1500 for a new diff wont happen. I heard a new propshaft JB weld and maybe a shear pin/bolt? Thoughts? thanks in advance!
Hi all new to the forum. I have an 04 ATP 500 HO. Rear propshaft splines gone and pinion shaft splines almost gone. Thanks to no brother good in law!!:motz: do I need to remove the swing arm to get propshaft out? roll pin removed, Rear diff is separated from bike, propshaft just hanging out in the swing arm. Cant find it anywhere on how to take the swing arm off. As far as a fix to the pinion shaft splines 1500 for a new diff wont happen. I heard a new propshaft JB weld and maybe a shear pin/bolt? Thoughts? thanks in advance!
Hi all new to the forum. I have an 04 ATP 500 HO. Rear propshaft splines gone and pinion shaft splines almost gone. Thanks to no brother good in law!!:motz: do I need to remove the swing arm to get propshaft out? roll pin removed, Rear diff is separated from bike, propshaft just hanging out in the swing arm. Cant find it anywhere on how to take the swing arm off. As far as a fix to the pinion shaft splines 1500 for a new diff wont happen. I heard a new propshaft JB weld and maybe a shear pin/bolt? Thoughts? thanks in advance!
What up Peeps, I thank you all in advance for any help or suggestions posted. I have an issue with my 2012 Sportsman 850 HO with EPS and could really use some help. First and foremost the quad is a beast and was virtually bullet proof until a few rides ago, GO POLARIS! Anyway almost simultaneously my EPS light started to flicker and a short while later the quad started overheating….(limp mode). I brought it home and cleaned the radiator thoroughly and checked the connections on the battery, this seemed to work for about 20 minutes on the next ride. I have since replaced the battery and installed a new temp sensor. Still the same issues. I looked over the wiring and nothing pops out as a red flag thinking there might be a short somewhere. I used a temp gun the next time it went into limp mode and the engine was running about 180 degrees…Is this the normal running temp? If so, any suggestions as to what this might be? Again any help is really appreciated.
